I need some help
08-26-2012, 10:16 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 3
I need some help
Ive got a 1982 280z non turbo and i have been working on this beauty for a year now. Ive had the head machined, replaced the clutch , replaced the starter, cleaned the entire upper half of the motor from the piston heads to the distributor cap. i had it running but the Mass Air Flow sensor was shot so i just disconnected it for the time being and got it to start with some brake clean or starter fluid. Then just a couple days ago i bought the mass airflow sensor and now it wont even start. ive tried adjusting the air to fuel ratio but it did nothing. i believe it has something to do with the vacuum system maybe? i didnt have a very clear guide from the book and i dont have the original hood for the car which i was told had the schematics for it. If any of you guys has any idea as to what might be goin on give my a shout because i have 31 days until i ship out for the airforce which leaves me little time to enjoy my pride and joy
Thanks!
Thanks!
08-26-2012, 10:32 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 41
Ive got a 1982 280z non turbo and i have been working on this beauty for a year now. Ive had the head machined, replaced the clutch , replaced the starter, cleaned the entire upper half of the motor from the piston heads to the distributor cap. i had it running but the Mass Air Flow sensor was shot so i just disconnected it for the time being and got it to start with some brake clean or starter fluid. Then just a couple days ago i bought the mass airflow sensor and now it wont even start. ive tried adjusting the air to fuel ratio but it did nothing. i believe it has something to do with the vacuum system maybe? i didnt have a very clear guide from the book and i dont have the original hood for the car which i was told had the schematics for it. If any of you guys has any idea as to what might be goin on give my a shout because i have 31 days until i ship out for the airforce which leaves me little time to enjoy my pride and joy Thanks!
Thanks!
08-26-2012, 11:31 PM
#3
Mr Z++ Wiki
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 2,195
Yup the FSM from XenonS130 will step you through the whole process. Take your old AFM (the 280ZX uses an Air Flow Meter - not a MAF) and rebuild it. There is a rebuild thread or a link to it here on the forum.
Good job Jason280ZX you're already helping other users on the forum
The FSM is THE guide to repairing the car and you'll often see stuff quoted from the FSM in the Chilton, etc repair manuals
Good job Jason280ZX you're already helping other users on the forum
The FSM is THE guide to repairing the car and you'll often see stuff quoted from the FSM in the Chilton, etc repair manuals
08-27-2012, 05:15 PM
#5
Grumpy & Helpful
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mill Creek WA
Posts: 1,415
you might have flooded it messing around. disconnect the fuel pump. push the pedal to the metal and let it crank a long time (be sure you have a good and fully charged battery). if you get a couple pops then you are on the right track. crank it again with pedal down. no pops reconnect fuel pump and see if she starts normally.
here is my general boiler plate for z's
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
here is my general boiler plate for z's
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
08-27-2012, 10:17 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 3
Ok so I checked the battery and it's reading good and the engine isn't flooded I tried what you said to do and it didn't work, sO out of curiosity I disconnected the air flow meter and faked a vacuum leak and started it up with some brake clean then I reconnected the AFM and it drove for a little bit but I could barely touch the gas without te engine dying. I was shifting at around 1200rpm and it wouldn't idle for more than a few seconds. I'm lost again haha
08-27-2012, 10:19 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 3
you might have flooded it messing around. disconnect the fuel pump. push the pedal to the metal and let it crank a long time (be sure you have a good and fully charged battery). if you get a couple pops then you are on the right track. crank it again with pedal down. no pops reconnect fuel pump and see if she starts normally.
here is my general boiler plate for z's
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
here is my general boiler plate for z's
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
