Put the Turbo AFM from Carl in. Let the ECU reset, fired the car up. It seemed to run pretty well. Or like it was running as if the car was fully warmed up.(Hadn't been started in over a week) although it was a 92 degree day. This morning it was cooler, fired it up got maybe a pop or two but drove down the street. It was doing alot better. On my break I started the car up, I watched the needle drop like the car was about to die, then it caught up and started idling fine. As far as driving goes, it's better than with the old AFM, but it's still not very good.

So I pulled out both AFMs and started OHMing them following the procedures in the Haynes guide. I did the whole flapper door test on the AFM that came with the car. I found two points where I got a 0L on the meter. The test for the Air Temp Sensor registered 1.790 or something like that. I don't know how to determine if that's right. It's around 80 degrees out today.

The AFM I got from Carl came up with a 1.729-1.732 for the Air Temp Sensor, and only one spot registered a 0L on the meter. The only other test I could do checked out. So I'm wondering, by doing J's AFM "rebuild" can I fix the fact that it's reading 0 on the meter or do I have to get a new one?

 

I have no idea on that. It would prob still be good to rebuild it though can't hurt I think.

 

By the way, how the hell do I get a socket or a wrench on the O2 sensor to remove it?

 

A Lot Of Luck Took Me Forever And A Day To Get The Sucker Out

 

it looks a lot more accessible from the non-turbo... Also I'm curious, do you guys think my cold start/popping while cold is a result of my AFM?

 

Soak the O2 sensor threads w/ some PB Blaster several times.... as in HOURS before you pull it.

So you have an a/f gauge hooked up? One of the best ways to tune these cars, is using an a/f gauge & adjusting the AFM.

 

My biggest problem with the O2 sensor is the fact that I don't even know how to get to it. To pull it off. As for the AFM I'm still trying to find out if those two spots that register as 0 on the meter are just completely dead or not. I also think I'm running rich due to the fact that the O2 sensor seems to not be working at all.

 

Alright, been messing with this damn O2 sensor for the past couple of hours. I don't think that bolt has moved at all. We've been spraying with PB blaster, we warmed the car up. We even ended up breaking off the top part of the O2 sensor just so we could get a socket on it for easier access. I sprayed it some more before we quit, so I'll try again tomorrow. Any other advice? I still don't have an air/fuel gauge yet. Doing the ohm tests, matching the AFMs I have with my AFM from my non-turbo. They all seem to give about the same readings for the air temp sensor. They all seem to be good. So I don't know what is causing this cold start hesitation. I also noticed that while idling, it seems to idle alright, then it gets up it hesitates around 2000 rpms, then right past that it has so much power and no miss. I still can't figure it out.

I also ohmed my TPS. The WOT test seemed to work out, and there was no continuity with the connectors and the chassis. When I was testing the idle part it read out a 0.00 on the meter as opposed to 0L, but when I would mess with the accelerator rod and then let it drop back down it would show resistance then eventually go back to 0.00, is this normal?

 

I fought with mine to get the nut out with sockets and what not...PB Blaster and the like. I finally went to the auto parts store and picked this up and it is 7/8". Mine got busted also, so all that was left was the nut. I made sure to get the exhaust up to operating temp then put on the O2 socket, pulled hard and steady and it broke free. Good luck brother. PS, mine is plugged with the old O2 nut and filled in with Ultra copper and my car seems to run better....I couldn't get the new O2 in...Damnit! But I will.

 

Hmm, I didn't know there was a 7/8 socket for the O2 sensor. So you did manage to get the old O2 sensor nut broken free? I guess I'll have to go get me one and do like you said. Warm it up and pull for dear life.

Trying to get my turbo running perfect....this is inspiring me and annihilating my outlook. It's got a new Dizzy, Cap, Rotor, and Wires. It's got a relatively new Cylinder Head Temp Sensor. I put the AFM in that I got from Carl. I opened it up and adjusted it. Once I get it out it'll have a new O2 sensor. I'm hoping that maybe the O2 sensor will really help improve my problem. It sounded like you were having problems when cold, then once the O2 sensor broke off and came free you were running alot closer to normal? Can the O2 sensor being bad cause the car to hesitate at certain RPMs?

I need to recheck the timing to make sure it's still where we set it. I need to get an A/F gauge, etc. There's so much to be done. I'm just hoping I can get it running perfect or damn near perfect soon. Not even 90k miles, with perfect compression. Body with very little rust. All it needs is a little work, some paint, and it'll be good. This is just one project that I'm at the point as to where I don't know what to think.

 

I know my O2 was way shot...it was already broke..it fell apart as I was trying to remove it. Yes it is hard to remove when cold, make sure the exhaust is up to temp when you try to remove it. My car is not a turbo but the O2 sensor is the same so the 7/8" O2 socket should work. My car was hesitating and bogging alot, mostly when cold...after I removed the O2 and plugged it up (not running an O2) the hesitation went away...I also did my AFM (carbon track thing) that helped also. Edit...I am going to get another O2 sensor because I was told it will be even better.

 

I think everyone is saying 20* on the timing for the turbo. Get you a nice K&N air filter and some snacks and you should be good to go.

 

Yeah I have it set to 20*. I'm going to recheck it to make sure. Setting the timing made it run infinitely better than it was when I got the car. I'm gonna keep going. I know this car will be amazing once it goes, and I know the potential for the turbo. Hence why I got it. It just was too good in my mind to pass up. I mean $1500 for a good turbo motor with as said not even 90k miles. It's sitting at about 895XX plus it was a 2-seater with every feature working, and very little rust. Let's not forget this is an Ohio car! If you ever make your way down to Ohio. Once it's all running then it'll be onto my tranny swap and exhaust manifold leaks... Oh Boy! If you ever make it down to Ohio let me know. Maybe we can meet up and help each other get all this stuff straightened out

 

Yeah I miss Ohio...sounds good to me man.

 

Try to start and run the car with out the O2 plgged up. See how it run's. Just a thought.

 

I have a question about the O2 sensor. If the O2 sensor isn't working, would the A/F gauge read correctly? Well I mean it might tell you if it's running rich or lean, but isn't the A/F gauge basically working off of the O2 sensor's signal? So if you have a malfunctioning O2 sensor, wouldn't your reading be off? Or does it get it elsewhere?

 

just took it for a drive, with broken off O2 sensor not filled with anything to help stop an exhaust leak and I also did the AFM "rebuild". Car went down the street from a completely cold start, and tonight is a little cooler. Around 70-ish. So it had a better test. It would rev way easier. Still slight popping, but it revved easier, less hesitation, got to boost way quicker, and the throttle was way more responsive. When it hit normal operating temps, the car seemed to have way more power especially out of boost and had a much easier time getting to the higher RPMs, where it used to kinda hesistate before blasting over them. Hopefully I'm on the verge of solving my problems.

By the way when I first started the car it fired up perfectly, then died. I started it up again, started up good, sorta sputtered for a moment, then sat relatively smooth. Could it be I'm finally making progress!?

 

Alright new O2 sensor is in the car. It's running like it did last night, only even better at Warm, and just slightly better at cold. Still missing a bit around 2250 RPMs. Gonna pull the plugs again and check the gap. Is it possible the coil is going if it's delivering a misfire around those RPMs?