King Noob
07-21-2011, 08:03 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 50
King Noob
Alright so it only took me 15 minutes to figure out how to put my own post up...
Hi all the names David.
I'm new to the Z Fam a proud owner of an 83 s130 I've got about a month or two with the car and i am yet to hear her purr. She is my main focus right now I'm literally working just for my car but i have a bit of a dilemma. The car has originally 342,000 miles and that is not a typo. I fried the fusible link when i put the battery in the wrong way... I know I know... Hence the name king noob. Lol. A buddy of mine who's a mechanic offered to swap out my motor not I was thinking rb20 but i heard its tough to find parts for that being I'm in Cali. My next bet is going vg30 thats more than likely what ill do but I'm looking for help on what would be the smartest steps to making this car a fun reliable daily driver. Any info and opinions help thanks!
Hi all the names David.
I'm new to the Z Fam a proud owner of an 83 s130 I've got about a month or two with the car and i am yet to hear her purr. She is my main focus right now I'm literally working just for my car but i have a bit of a dilemma. The car has originally 342,000 miles and that is not a typo. I fried the fusible link when i put the battery in the wrong way... I know I know... Hence the name king noob. Lol. A buddy of mine who's a mechanic offered to swap out my motor not I was thinking rb20 but i heard its tough to find parts for that being I'm in Cali. My next bet is going vg30 thats more than likely what ill do but I'm looking for help on what would be the smartest steps to making this car a fun reliable daily driver. Any info and opinions help thanks!
07-21-2011, 09:19 AM
#5
-ZERO-Welcome to ZDriver eZdoesit!
I think 342K miles on a 280zx is awesome! If you want to do an easy, reliable, and affordable swap, find a turbo (L28ET) motor and swap it in. Any other swaps will take much more time and $$$. An RB20 swap is relatively easy, but can be hard to find one, and the swap gains you very little hp.
Go w/ an L28ET... California is the capital of 280zx turbos.
07-21-2011, 09:59 AM
#9
07-21-2011, 02:28 PM
#13
Mr Z++ Wiki
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 2,195
No offense but if you don't know you probably just need to replace your ECU since that's likely all that you fried when you hooked the battery up backwards then doing an exotic VG30ET swap into an S130 is going to be a nightmare.... I don't think I've ever even heard of an VG30ET in an S130. The S30 yes but never heard of one in an S130. I'd put a VG30DE in before I bothered with a VG30ET - more power and torque stock for stock. RBs are more common swaps into the S130. Try and find an L28ET and cut your losses now. Also if you find a parts car to pull the L28ET no one ever tells people to grab the rear diff and CV setup - do that.
If it's not rusty who cares if it has 300K + miles.... you're good to go.
If it's not rusty who cares if it has 300K + miles.... you're good to go.
07-21-2011, 04:23 PM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 50
alright alright... nvm the vg... this is what im dealing with.
does anyone know^^^where i can get this piece?
playing shy girl by the SER.
minor rust on the hood
does anyone know^^^where i can get this piece?
playing shy girl by the SER.
minor rust on the hood
Last edited by eZdoesit; 07-21-2011 at 05:09 PM.
07-21-2011, 04:35 PM
#17
Ruff Ryder
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: palm desert
Posts: 6,140
Theirs probably more turbine engine 280zx's running around then vg swaps..
http://jalopnik.com/394805/desert-ru...ed-datsun-280z
To be fair, I would honestly say the VG would be an easier swap in an s130 compared to an s30. Considering the engine bays are more or less the same width from what I have seen.
http://jalopnik.com/394805/desert-ru...ed-datsun-280z
To be fair, I would honestly say the VG would be an easier swap in an s130 compared to an s30. Considering the engine bays are more or less the same width from what I have seen.
Last edited by hoov100; 07-21-2011 at 04:41 PM.
07-21-2011, 04:56 PM
#18
What's the benefit of a VG30ET over an L28ET? Same hp available... more $$$ and time for the swap... no "wow" factor... What's the benefit?
07-21-2011, 04:58 PM
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 50
yeah im staying inline 6 and going rb i been reading up more. This car im gonna use for rally in the california rally series rwd of course. but i also live off lil tujunga mt rd so i wanna still have fun on the asphalt.
07-22-2011, 03:25 AM
#20
The Emblem Thief y0!
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Tulsa, Ok
Posts: 947
I'mma jump in since I've stuck an Rb20 into an S130 engine bay.
Not hard at all.
Wiring is an issue, and the big headache is the oil pan if you can't weld.
Plus, noted before, you can't just stroll down to the Oreilly store and get parts for your motor.
Edit:
You will need to bore out your engine mounts to make the little tooth on the RB mount fit, and if you will need a transmission mount from an automatic S130, the 5 speed S130 mount is off by a retarded amount. If you get the RB20, let me know and I'll mail you the auto mount.
You will also need to take off the oil return from the turbo and use a flex line. If you try to sit the engine in the bay with the stock tube, you will sit the motor right on top of your steering column.
Wiring I can not help with, as that never got done, but anything else you need help with, send me a PM
Driveshaft slips right in too, don't need to switch out the yolk or anything.
Rb20: $900-$1,300
Oil Pan arrangement: $200 (Guesstimate)
Auto mount: Just pay shipping and it's on your doorstep
Wiring: Time =/= Money?
What my mech. and I were going to do was replace the oil pump, water pump, front and rear main seals, valve cover gaskets, and the oil/water pump gaskets, to make everything as close to zero mile as possible, as more than likely the motor you will be getting will be around 40k miles.
Not hard at all.
Wiring is an issue, and the big headache is the oil pan if you can't weld.
Plus, noted before, you can't just stroll down to the Oreilly store and get parts for your motor.
Edit:
You will need to bore out your engine mounts to make the little tooth on the RB mount fit, and if you will need a transmission mount from an automatic S130, the 5 speed S130 mount is off by a retarded amount. If you get the RB20, let me know and I'll mail you the auto mount.
You will also need to take off the oil return from the turbo and use a flex line. If you try to sit the engine in the bay with the stock tube, you will sit the motor right on top of your steering column.
Wiring I can not help with, as that never got done, but anything else you need help with, send me a PM
Driveshaft slips right in too, don't need to switch out the yolk or anything.
Rb20: $900-$1,300
Oil Pan arrangement: $200 (Guesstimate)
Auto mount: Just pay shipping and it's on your doorstep
Wiring: Time =/= Money?
What my mech. and I were going to do was replace the oil pump, water pump, front and rear main seals, valve cover gaskets, and the oil/water pump gaskets, to make everything as close to zero mile as possible, as more than likely the motor you will be getting will be around 40k miles.
Last edited by WanganDevilZ; 07-22-2011 at 03:38 AM. Reason: Drive Safe
07-22-2011, 01:02 PM
#21
Mr Z++ Wiki
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 2,195
Local wrecking yard. You have to pull off the interior body panel that covers the seat belt mech. There is a 10mm head bolt and the rest are plastic clips that will probably break off when you pull it. There is a little trim piece at the top that comes off with a couple of screws when you remove the main piece.
Just hit that with some Conquest or other rust converter then seal it up with a splash of paint to seal it until you can take care of it at a later date. That will stop it from rusting further. Rust Check makes some good primers as well.....
07-22-2011, 01:29 PM
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 50
You guys r freaking awesome! *cyber hug*
So it looks like I will have to hold off on the rb for another month then I have to pass smog and start driving her with just the l28 for now I guess. Seeing as how I'm dealing with a high mileage motor what do u guys suggest I get just to have her in a reliable state? I already have the clutch problem where the pedal stays in which seems most common off of what I've read.
So it looks like I will have to hold off on the rb for another month then I have to pass smog and start driving her with just the l28 for now I guess. Seeing as how I'm dealing with a high mileage motor what do u guys suggest I get just to have her in a reliable state? I already have the clutch problem where the pedal stays in which seems most common off of what I've read.
07-22-2011, 08:38 PM
#23
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Alameda, CA
Posts: 903
As far as your clutch is concerned... Try filling the clutch reservoir under the hood and bleed the lines. There's a slave clutch cylinder on the passenger side of the transmission that will need to be bled as well. Easy peezy.
Next, drain and replace all of the fluids and filters. Probably would be a good time for a new dizzy cap, rotor, spark plug wires and spark plugs. Don't forget a new air filter.
If there's an electrical connection under the hood, clean it.
Put some fresh gas in the tank and about 1/2 a can of Seafoam as well.
Fire it up and see what happens.
Next, drain and replace all of the fluids and filters. Probably would be a good time for a new dizzy cap, rotor, spark plug wires and spark plugs. Don't forget a new air filter.
If there's an electrical connection under the hood, clean it.
Put some fresh gas in the tank and about 1/2 a can of Seafoam as well.
Fire it up and see what happens.
