L28et?
#27
Hey guys! I today I saw my very first 280zxt!! It was awsome it was in a junk yard but they want 1500 firm for it. It looked in pretty good condition from what I saw but I asked if he would sell me the motor and the hood. He said 850 is that a good deal??
#28
Well what kind of condition is the motor in? I assume you'll be wanting to do a complete rebuild anyway? Keep in mind rebuilding the Turbo also.
#29
That's pretty steep for junk yard prices (at least in my area).
The Pick N Pull sells complete running cars for $1k. Engines with accessories for $149:
300-4 Engine Carb W/Access Car $149.99 $49.99
300-DEngine Diesel Long Block Car $199.99 $49.99
300-4DEngine Diesel W/Access Car $219.99 $49.99
300-4FEngine F-Inj W/Access Car $149.99 $49.99
300-2 Engine Long Block Car $134.99 $29.99
300-1 Engine Short Block Car $109.99 $19.99
But if you are paying him to pull the motor, $850 should include labor.
The Pick N Pull sells complete running cars for $1k. Engines with accessories for $149:
300-4 Engine Carb W/Access Car $149.99 $49.99
300-DEngine Diesel Long Block Car $199.99 $49.99
300-4DEngine Diesel W/Access Car $219.99 $49.99
300-4FEngine F-Inj W/Access Car $149.99 $49.99
300-2 Engine Long Block Car $134.99 $29.99
300-1 Engine Short Block Car $109.99 $19.99
But if you are paying him to pull the motor, $850 should include labor.
#30
Yeah I tol them I bought my car for 1500 runnin good they kept saying theres is beter but the transmition is messed up on there's and I'm not sure what condition didn't turn it on but the cars interior was pretty nice saw a little of Frame rust but I poped the hood and fell in love I want one of these motors!!
#31
Don't forget all the important parts. The engine bay harness, ECU, AFM and boot, down pipe. The exhaust is larger on the turbo car but you are better off to fab your own. Also the 82 - 83 has a fuel pump control modulator near the ECU which you need to turn on the fuel pump otherwise you'll have to add your own fuel pump relay. The engine bay harness will come out whole. The fuseable link has tavs that hold the power lead in. A small slotted screwdriver will get it out.
#32
Ok I'll keep that in mind and a question is how did you guys learn to swap motors? Because Im have trouble making brakets for some racing seats I can't imagen swapping a motor I don't want to pay some one to do it because I like to do things myself and don't realy want to pay some one to do it. Is it plug in basically?
#33
By researching and doing. I've already stated that all L-Series motors are interchangeable. You LITERALLY unbolt the old motor, and bolt in the new. The only "hard" part about the turbo motor swap is the wiring, and there are numerous write-ups. Even the wiring is simple as long as you follow directions.
Rebuilding a motor is a lot more complex because it takes patience, time, the right tools, and techniques.
Rebuilding a motor is a lot more complex because it takes patience, time, the right tools, and techniques.
#34
Ok I'll keep that in mind and a question is how did you guys learn to swap motors? Because Im have trouble making brakets for some racing seats I can't imagen swapping a motor I don't want to pay some one to do it because I like to do things myself and don't realy want to pay some one to do it. Is it plug in basically?
#36
#37
#39
aye aye aye...
How about finding one that you can buy / obtain first?
I've bought complete drivable 280zxt's for $300, $400, and $500.
If you don't want to do a single thing to a ~150k miles motor, then don't. But you will probably need to do work to it later on... so the general rule of thumb for mechanical work is: DO IT WHILE YOU'RE IN THERE. Water pump, gaskets, etc as a bare minimum. It's much easier to work on an engine sitting on a stand, than in the car.
I think I already said once in this thread:
Yes, a full rebuild doing all but machine work yourself will cost ~$800-$1k. If you need a mechanic to do the work, you will be $2k-$3k.
With a rebuild, and upgrades / mods while you're in there, will easily get you to 250hp, whereas a stock L28ET running stock ecu and max 10psi boost, ~200whp.
How about finding one that you can buy / obtain first?
I've bought complete drivable 280zxt's for $300, $400, and $500.
If you don't want to do a single thing to a ~150k miles motor, then don't. But you will probably need to do work to it later on... so the general rule of thumb for mechanical work is: DO IT WHILE YOU'RE IN THERE. Water pump, gaskets, etc as a bare minimum. It's much easier to work on an engine sitting on a stand, than in the car.
I think I already said once in this thread:
Yes, a full rebuild doing all but machine work yourself will cost ~$800-$1k. If you need a mechanic to do the work, you will be $2k-$3k.
With a rebuild, and upgrades / mods while you're in there, will easily get you to 250hp, whereas a stock L28ET running stock ecu and max 10psi boost, ~200whp.
#44
How much difference the intake an exhaust will give you? What are you doing exactly? Just headers? I mean really exhaust and intake are mostly preparations for bigger performance mods. It'll maybe do a little but nothing super noticeable. The sound is usually what you'll appreciate most.
#46
How much difference the intake an exhaust will give you? What are you doing exactly? Just headers? I mean really exhaust and intake are mostly preparations for bigger performance mods. It'll maybe do a little but nothing super noticeable. The sound is usually what you'll appreciate most.
And yeah i read there isnt much to do with n/a engine endless your rich
O and the muffler do you guys know any mufflers that are farly quite but can sound like a actual car not a bus when your passed around 4k rpm?
#48