Last resort for removing broken bolt...
05-13-2011, 04:33 PM
#1
The Emblem Thief y0!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Tulsa, Ok
Posts: 947
Last resort for removing broken bolt...
I have gotten the headbolt about as wide as I can right now, and I can't get a good grip on the extractor, so it just slides out (Extractors are pos imo)
Should I get a grade 8 bolt and weld it to the headbolt?
Any ideas? I've soaked the bolt in PB blaster as it was rust/grime buildup in the threads that caused this.
Input. Need Input.
0513111829.jpg?t=1305329576
Should I get a grade 8 bolt and weld it to the headbolt?
Any ideas? I've soaked the bolt in PB blaster as it was rust/grime buildup in the threads that caused this.
Input. Need Input.
0513111829.jpg?t=1305329576
05-13-2011, 05:55 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Saskatoon, SK
Posts: 2,901
If it was my block, and same issues happened, I would drill it out to the MINOR diameter of the BOLT, so only the threads are left inside the block (if ya catch what i mean). If you damaged the threads in the block at all, i would drill up and helicoil the hole then. I helicoiled all my stud holes but thats up to you. My .02 Canadian pennies.
05-13-2011, 08:01 PM
#3
You can try welding... but since the block is iron, it's probably going to stick to the block too...
Last week I had a TTY (torque to yield) head bolt break on my Geo G10 motor as I was putting the head back on... last bolt snapped BEFORE it got to the 54ft/lbs. A guy on a Geo forum sells socket bolts (like the Z has) for $30 + shipping... I stopped in to my local FASTENALL shop and picked up grade 12.9'ers (you can torque the hell out of them and won't break) for $10.
Anyway, all I did was drill a hole down the middle of the bolt, wedged a square taper extractor in, and backed it out...
Hopefully you are using the square taper and not the reverse helical kind (they should be banned).
Use these:
DO NOT USE THESE:
And for kicks... my broken bolt:
Last week I had a TTY (torque to yield) head bolt break on my Geo G10 motor as I was putting the head back on... last bolt snapped BEFORE it got to the 54ft/lbs. A guy on a Geo forum sells socket bolts (like the Z has) for $30 + shipping... I stopped in to my local FASTENALL shop and picked up grade 12.9'ers (you can torque the hell out of them and won't break) for $10.
Anyway, all I did was drill a hole down the middle of the bolt, wedged a square taper extractor in, and backed it out...
Hopefully you are using the square taper and not the reverse helical kind (they should be banned).
Use these:
DO NOT USE THESE:
And for kicks... my broken bolt:
05-14-2011, 12:30 AM
#4
The Emblem Thief y0!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Tulsa, Ok
Posts: 947
Bah, I knew there was something up with the reverse thread extractors when they didn't actually want to grab.
Where do I get a set of those other ones? No real rush, but that bolt has been in there for a while
Where do I get a set of those other ones? No real rush, but that bolt has been in there for a while
05-14-2011, 01:17 AM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 332
I know you already soaked it in PB blaster but, you might also want to try a mix of diesel and marvel mystery oil, that stuff removes rust if you leave it on there for a week or so, i had a small engine with a rusty, stuck steel cylinder, so i soaked it in the mix and all it left behind was the base metal, I had to replace the piston because the rust ate away a lot on the edges, but still...
05-14-2011, 04:45 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NH, formerly CT
Posts: 172
You can try welding... but since the block is iron, it's probably going to stick to the block too...
Last week I had a TTY (torque to yield) head bolt break on my Geo G10 motor as I was putting the head back on... last bolt snapped BEFORE it got to the 54ft/lbs. A guy on a Geo forum sells socket bolts (like the Z has) for $30 + shipping... I stopped in to my local FASTENALL shop and picked up grade 12.9'ers (you can torque the hell out of them and won't break) for $10.
Anyway, all I did was drill a hole down the middle of the bolt, wedged a square taper extractor in, and backed it out...
Hopefully you are using the square taper and not the reverse helical kind (they should be banned).
Use these:
DO NOT USE THESE:
Last week I had a TTY (torque to yield) head bolt break on my Geo G10 motor as I was putting the head back on... last bolt snapped BEFORE it got to the 54ft/lbs. A guy on a Geo forum sells socket bolts (like the Z has) for $30 + shipping... I stopped in to my local FASTENALL shop and picked up grade 12.9'ers (you can torque the hell out of them and won't break) for $10.
Anyway, all I did was drill a hole down the middle of the bolt, wedged a square taper extractor in, and backed it out...
Hopefully you are using the square taper and not the reverse helical kind (they should be banned).
Use these:
DO NOT USE THESE:
I have to find me a set of the square ones. Where would I find them, any sears, or are they only made by a select few??
05-14-2011, 04:32 PM
#7
The Emblem Thief y0!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Tulsa, Ok
Posts: 947
They have various types.
http://www.arizonatools.com/screw-ex...detail/AZT174/
Unless I can find me a set locally before payday.
They're called "Straight Fluted Extractors"
http://www.arizonatools.com/screw-ex...detail/AZT174/
Unless I can find me a set locally before payday.
They're called "Straight Fluted Extractors"
05-14-2011, 07:21 PM
#8
05-15-2011, 06:24 AM
#9
Big Poppa
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mission, British Columbia
Posts: 4,499
the square ones are the ONLY ones that work. snap on sells them too, but at a million dollars. ive broke the square ones too tho, but they come out easier. i find it easier to weld a nut on the top sometimes before drilling, 90% of the time it works, but i find a little of the bolt has to be sticking up for that to work. and use a left hand thread drill bit when drilling broken bolts, sometimes you dont even need the extractor
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