RubberBerner

The people who take thier car to the shops are the people that pay me. They don't have to take it to us, we're strictly there for convenience, and lets face it, this world is based on commodities. If average joe doesn't have time to learn about it, or could care less...thats why he brings it to me and i charge him accordingly. People are dumb, but you don't know everything about everything.
What year did the z's start using the IM's? im gonna look for a TSB on this one.

81 Black L28E

i think all of the N/A z's from 79-83 have them i not sure about the years befor
nismo says that the turbo z's dont have them ...ther dizzy's are much diff then the n/a cars

jfairladyz

The 280Z had them too. And you gotta remember that guy that doesn't know a dipstick from a sparkplug could be a whiz kid with a computer. Or would laugh in the face of someone who needed a cabinet made or a garage constructed. Everyone's got their forte, alot of people are just too ignorant to find it. Its the ignorant people that are the cows

81 Black L28E

yesturday i cleaned and gapped all of my spark plugs and set dissy to a mark more advanced ...i also turned the air flow screw just a notch....idle and power came up ...i ajusted my fuel presser ragulator long with ajusting the others and she seemed to run cleaner ... i could always here this little miss fire at idle....i have been try to get it gone for a long time .i could mostly feel this when sitting at a stop light or just as i would step on it to go not full step but just a normal driving speed..well the new IM got here today ......it was brand new shiney new not a mark on it i poped it in and it worked better then i thought it would .....idle its perrrrrrrfect and power is way up ...even the stupied little miss fire is gone
the curve that this IM it set to seems very different from the stock nissan one ...
i dont know what Regitar did but really it has a much different power curve... it pulls hard all the way though NO lag off the line ...power from 2200rpm to 5500rpm is a lot more ...seems to me that i wasnt getting all of the spark that i should have been... now when i kick it down it puts me back in the seat it even sounds better much deeper with a smooth throtty rumble and a screming top end...i had to be carefull not to step on it to much when taking off it burns out now .... i still dont know about the shuting off problem... i put it in at about 2:00pm today my car had already been driven and it had already been though the shut off bullshit and then restarted...so i will go though my normal warm up in the moring and see if it does it or not ....hopefully it wont do it ..it didnt do it at all this after noon or this eveing as for buying this item he offers a

Warranty

Products are warranted for a period of 3 months, from the date of purchase. We will replace without charge (excluding shipping charges) any product found to be defective in material or workmanship when returned with proof of purchase by the original purchaser

im stoked on this product if you own a 79 to 81 n/a 280zx i would call the # and order one of these right away the price alone is worth it... i mite order one more just to have a extra

WildmaN

Glad to hear your Z is runnung better! Hopefully in the morning she starts right up for you. Too bad I have a '82, it has an extra plug on the IM. The '79-'81's won't work on mine. Argghh!

81 Black L28E

it shut off right after full warm up ..............DAM IT ... coil or head temp sen????
i think iam going to go down and buy a MSD coil today **** accel

RodMoyes

Well at least it ran like an animal until it died... Sounds like the coil after all.

Rod.

81 Black L28E

WELL I THOUGHT THAT SO I SWAPED COILS WHEN IT DID IT AGAIN THIS MORING
IT FIRED RIGHT UP WITH THE STOCK COIL IN ....AND THEN IT SHUT OFF AGAIN
........SO I HOOKED THE ACCEL ONE BACK UP AND IT FIRED RIGHT OVER ...I TOOK IT ON A HOUR DRIVE TO A SKATE PARK IT THE NEXT TOWN .....I SKATED FOR ABOUT AN HOUR AND I THEN DROVE HOME IT DIDNT DO IT AT ALL ther or on the way BACK.. .....I THINK BEFOR I GO BY A COIL IAM GOING TO GO AND BUY A HEAT TEMP SEN..............

s/c TELL YOU ME ABOUT dizzy stator and rotor
STUFF how do i change the stator



THIS SHITYYYYYYY POST WILL GO ON UNTELL I FIG THIS OUT

RodMoyes

Hey Black, When it dies, have you checked to see if it's cranking and just not getting spark? I mean have you actually checked for spark when it's failing to restart? I know it sounds crazy, but talking about my Porsche reminded me about when I had a nifty little intermittant problem with my fuel pump on it. It did the exact same thing you are describing. It would start in the morning and drive until it got hot and just shut off. Wouldn't restart until it wanted to. Chased that problem for weeks until some Augustus Glup sounding **** Porsche guru said "Ya, for sure is petrol pump... for sure." Turns out Gerhardt knew what he was talking about.

Rod.

81 Black L28E

someone had said this to me befor ....i didnt listen mabe i should now ....ok ok
befor go buying a bunch of **** iam going down to the auto parts store and see if
i can get a volt thingy ....i will be back in a few

81 Black L28E

will this do the job ok how do i do this ....tell me the frist five steps and when it shuts off again i will go though the steps

jfairladyz

That'll work perfect. I'll PM you. Oh and I'll let you know about the stator and rotor swap too.

81 Black L28E

sounds good J

RodMoyes

Looking for an update here Black, What's the scoop? I was looking through all the posts in the thread, and I'm thinking it's either the Fuel Pump or the Dizzy. Just wondering what the latest find is.

Rod.

81 Black L28E

i went to start it this moring and it wouldnt start ............ tach jumped around for a min and then has sat still ever sence .....i keep missing with it but reALY ...........iam over it .........i think i mite just be a cow and call a shop

i have a fuel gau and i can hear the fuel pump switch on so i dont think its fuel
i took the coil wire and grounded it and turned it over to see if there was spark but it didnt look like there was any .........?????????


iam sick of it ...i just want my car to work so i can go get some smokes .


**** it

RodMoyes

Well, If the tach shows no signal, then it isn't the Fuel Pump. I'm gonna lean toward the Dizzy still, but this isn't my best area.

Rod.

WildmaN

On my '82 my tach doesn't move until a few seconds after I start it. Then it starts working, weird.

81 Black L28E

i think iam the BIGGEST fool in the world .........i pulled # 1 plug and in was dry as a bone ...i set it on the strut tower and turned it over and there was spark .......

iam a fool my fuel pump is gone to **** ......

81 Black L28E

iam even more of a fool ..........my fuel pump is working fine my injectors are not adding the fuel ......i know this becuse if i pull the Hose to my fuel rail and turn it over fuel pumps out .........so if my injectorS arent opening and closeing then its my ECU????
just to be safe could it be my afm shutING off the fuel flow ?????
i read some where that the afm can shut fuel flow off ????????


IT STILL HAS NOT STARTED

jfairladyz

The head temp sensor can kill the engine (not damage, I mean shut it off) if it's signal gets outta parameters. It'll cause the engine to run too rich or too lean and just kill it. If you've got spark and you're gettin guel to the injectors then it's got to be fuel or ECU related. Do you have a major Auto Chain near you? If so go down and ask to borrow a noid light. It'll probably run you a deposit but you should get it all back when you return it. Just plug it into the injector harness (pick one, and work your way through them, but I'm guessing none of em are going to work if it's ecu related). If the sucker is flashing really rapid and bright then theres nothing wrong with the ecu (not as far as driving the injectors anyways). If the light does nothing then the ECU is not firing the injectors. Either a bad circuit or it's faulty. If the ECU IS faulty don't toss it. They can USUALLY be repaired. If the injectors are firing and the car still wont start then I'm going to lean toward the head temp. sensor or it's circuit. And since you've got a meter now you can test the head temp sensor to see if the sensor itself is acting up. If the head temp sensor circuit is seeing too much resistance the car won't be able to run, or start. It'll be too rich. I'd suggest going down and getting a noid light tomorrow if you can and PM if you want to know how to test the head temp sensor.

jfairladyz

Oh and black, I've done a lot of tweaking with the AFM and it's circuits and through out all my tests I could not get the AFM to kill the engine no matter how far off I through the signals. The only sensor I could get to kill the engine was the head temp sensor. It doesn't take much to throw off the head temp sensor signal to the point where it shuts the car off either. If I didn't adjust the signal it wouldn't start back up either. SO if the sensor ain't bad, the connector or the circuit could be.

81 Black L28E

THIS SUCKS ......i know for sure that none of the injectors are firering fuel .....
i went ahead and swaped ECU's I HAVE A extra 79 ecu ...so i swaped it in and it still wont start ....i have tryed this ecu befor so i know it will start my car .....but it still wont start .....what would stop my injectors from fireing also why wont my tach move as i turn it over ..i have been reading though the hayness man and i cant figure it out ....

jfairladyz

Are you sure they're not firing? Maybe the dropping resistor is fried Could be a bad FI relay. Also, still could be a bad ignition switch circuit not sending power to a relay. That's about all thats left if the injector just plain aren't firing and you're getting spark and you KNOW the ECU is good. It's intermittent so I'm going to stay away from timing. I'd suggest checking and replacing the relays that control the FI. Make sure the computer grounds are all good too. And last but not least, if the cylinder head temp circuit is open it should cause the car to not start or run. I've experimented with that one too. If you've got wiring diagrams then I'd suggest putting that meter to use. If you don't have any diagrams I can email you some to get you started.

81 Black L28E

bad FI relay????????????????? MY CAR WILL RUN WITH OR WITH OUT THE HEAD TEMP SEN PLUGED IN .....I KNOW THIS TO BE A FACT ..IT SOUNDS WIERD BUT IT WORKS WITH OR WITH OUT IT PLUGED IN ...


Maybe the dropping resistor is fried????????????

jfairladyz

Thats crazy. If I pull mine the car just shuts off. It's an 81 too, just like yours. That's weird. And the ECU is controlled by a relay. If that relay goes the ECU doesn't get powered up. I'm running out of ideas here. It's hard when I can't actually test anything. Try pulling the FI relay and replacing that. Relays can be had for cheap if you or Bleach don't have one laying around. It's a lone relay, I believe it's in the Fender by the battery and fuse link box (someone correct me if Im wrong). It pulls it's power from the fuse links. Which gives me something else. If you've got a failing fuse link maybe it's breaking open and closing depending on how its vibrated. Heat does really strange things to electrical components. But I'd check the FI relay then. Think about a starter solenoid. On my old mustang the solenoid was going out (same thing as a relay). I'd try to start the car and it wouldn't. After a few trys, finally it would start. The problem got worse and worse until finally I couldn't get it to start no matter how much I tried. So I finally replaced the solenoid. Problem was solved. A little bit different of a problem here but the same basic idea. If that relay isn't staying closed or it's power supply circuit isn't staying closed then it's going to cut off power to the ECU which means you're fuel injectors arent going to fire no matter how many ECU's you try putting in there.