Black_Zephyr

Hello,

I am a new owner of my first 280ZX. I have wanted one for years, and lucked out to find one.

Originally gold in colour, it was repainted black. It has T-tops, manual 5 speed and is Naturally Aspirated. 1982 made, with 240,562 KM.

She ran fine since purchase with normal maintenance, until a week ago. Now, every morning when I start the car, I am treated to a harsh squealing/grinding sound just fore of the shifter. This happens regardless of starting with the clutch in, being in gear or in neutral. I start my car normally without depressing the clutch, waiting for the OK to flash on the dash computer "box" and having it in neutral with the e-brake engaged.

I went over the car with a mechanically-inclined buddy. He felt my clutch and shifted into all gears on a test drive. We noticed that when not in gear, or shifting to 1st or 2nd, there is a dull, wet grinding sound in the bell housing. He says the clutch more than likely needs to be replaced, the pressure plates etc are loose and have alot of play. He says the flywheel may need to be replaced as well.

I welcome any questions, I am new to this and would like to know if anyone else has this issue.

Thanks,
Zephyr

NismoPick

Welcome to ZDriver!

Have you checked the fan belt tightness? They will squeal when cold & loose (https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...g-gears-34038/). Just making sure you start with the simple instead of diving straight to the expensive problems.

If it's clutch related, it's most likely the throw out bearing (a toasted clutch slips when driving)... but that sound would usually change when you push in / release the clutch pedal.

I'd take it to a Euro / Japanese car shop and just ask a mechanic to listen to the car... with two opinions, you'll know what's wrong.

Black_Zephyr

Hey NismoPick,

Thanks for the welcome. I'll do that soon, and I have not checked the belt tightness. I did download the shop and owners manual for my car though from XenonS130's site.

A couple other problems I should mention:

1. My drivers side external door latch no longer works. The interior works fine. I pulled off the door cover and had a peek. The outer latch operates fine, except it does not pull the release latch inside the door nearly as far as the internal door opener handle does.

2. I took it through a car wash. BAD idea. The first thing I noticed was a stream of soapy water pour out from under the passenger side glove box area, down below. I don't know what allowed it in, but it did not go through my side. I know on older cars they sometimes had vents for air, but I haven't seen any vent levers/latches for my car? T-roof does leak a little, but there was a deluge of water through the back quarter windows. Washing by hand next time!

3. Car drives straight... when steering wheel is about 30-40 degrees cocked to the right. I'm told I need an alignment badly, and that it could be bent axles?

4. RUST. On the under body of my car. GOOD LORD how do I kill it before it eats my car alive!? The exterior is in great shape, but there are soft spots forming on the rails on the sides of the car's underbody.

Otherwise she runs great! :P

Pics of the beautiful Frauline! - http://s1013.photobucket.com/albums/...lack%20Zephyr/

NismoPick

#1: The door handle push bar ends have adjustable plastic pieces... take another look.

#2: Probably rust holes at the windshield, or the outside air vent seals are toast.

#3: There are no "axles" up front, but yes, an alignment will either fix the problem or let you know what needs to be replaced (usually ball joints & tie rods).

#4: Yep... expect rust unless the car lived in the desert. Don't waste your time on the rust unless you have $5k-$10k to burn.

Black_Zephyr

Once again, thanks! I'll see about those adjustable ends for the door. Really uncool to be crawling in through the passenger side every day

Where are the outside air vent seals located? I wouldn't be surprised if they are toast, but I'd like to check. At least I could patch the hole so I don't go swimming when it rains hard!

The windshield has a bit of bubbled rust on the bottom but no holes, luckily.

I'll be seeing about an alignment soon

Rust.... ah why couldn't everyone follow Mr. DeLorean's braingasm and build cars out of non rusting ALUMINIUM.

Don't have 5 to 10 G's right now, so rust will have to stay. What about a hot mineral wax/oil combo sprayed on the bottom of the car? I know an old Swiss guy who still does that. Will regular undercoating work too? I'm just considering what I remember from chemistry, that being rust can only continue to form in the presence of oxygen. Remove the oxygen (i.e. sealing the affected area) and you halt or severly slow the rust?

I'm not sure where to post this last point... but I wanted to replace the air filter set up with a cold air intake filter system from K&N. However they do not have one/list one for the 280ZX, just a filter for the stock pan (which I already have). Would the long, broad filter for the 300ZX Z31 work I wonder? I basically wish to remove everything before the air sensor, and in the air cleaner alcove of the body, put a long exposed K&N filter for the most unrestricted air intake possible. Thoughts?

Thanks again! (P.S. Yes, those are red and black Nismo seats in my car

rogerz

make your own cold air intake with an 90 degree exhaust elbow of the correct diameter plus the k&n filter OR spend the bucks to get the kit from msa. that bubbled rust probably is full of holes. steering wheel just pull it and align it straight. Good idea to check alignment BUT knowing these cars replace the outer tie rod ends and ball joints before you spend the money on alignment. get poly bushings and do that when you do the other work. msa and/or black dragon have lots of stuff you will need/want.

FricFrac

You already have a CAI on your car stock from the factory. If you want to get rid of the gigantic air box rip it out get a piece of 3" pipe and a 3" diameter cone filter and voila replacement CAI. Here's a pic of mine without the AFM but you get the idea...



The problem with the 280ZX for the most part with regards to rust - the seam sealer. It's pourous so instead of keeping water out of the seams it wicks water into and along the seams rotting them out as soon as the paint cracks over the seam sealer.

mrprofile

I just thought I would troll for a sec and say the DeLorean wasn't made of aluminum, it was made out of stainless steel and fiberglass.

FricFrac

They also squeal when the idler pully bearing is shot... just all the time until the bearing seizes then it gets quite for a bit... then smoke starts pouring out of the engine bay then it stops making noise all together