http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merch...ry_Code=PRC02E



dam ..........why they make them so spendy


Gimmy Gimmy Gimmy I need I need Hey how do i know if i have a R-180 or a R-200 REAR END .IAM HOPING FOR THE R-180 THE PRICE OF THE R-200 IS.... CRAZY TALK

 

Simular price for lockers or LSD for trucks. That's not outrageous at all. You want an R200 in your car if you ever plan to go with a 5-speed or more powerful engine.

 

how can i find out wich mine is?

 

[COLOR=DarkRed]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bleach

Simular price for lockers or LSD for trucks. That's not outrageous at all. You want an R200 in your car if you ever plan to go with a 5-speed or more powerful engine.

i think i want go RB25 .....IN MY DREAMS ....for now its sick and ill all my friend love her and iam stoked
i am how ever going to buy this motor at the pick and pull itS A 1980 it in this blue car that says peel out pete on the roof ..peel out pete wasnt ****ing around he did a awsome job on the egr tube he weilded a peice that works soo good to seel my egr holes it had a bunch of goodies new alt new dissy it has a n47 head i will sell it and buy a p90a iam just waiting on a lift and sunny day mabe turbo it mabe big boar.. i cant make up my mind i was checking out that big boar page 310 hp is alot mabe two much i mite get my self in trouble... i went a got a whissler pig dectecor i dont want any tickets what i really want to know is why my pistons say F53 on them instead of the norm p-79 ??????????? my motor dosnt sound like blue at all shes ruff and mean makes me think that old man did some stuff to her and then,,, blue the head gasket ,, got rid of it to the guy that had it he,,, had it for six months and never even moved it... also i seems to have alot off camber and she seem to sit a little up in the rear is this norm for a 81 [COLOR]

 

Geez, that does seem pricey. I mean if it was the complete carrier that'd be a bit more understandable. But just the LSD?
I think I'd have to keep my pegleg burnouts.

 

Yeah that's actually not all that expensive. I've seen units for other cars go for a lot more than what these one's cost. But not worth it if all you do is drive your car around town. If your a racer, you won't think it's so expensive once you've raced with one compared to without.

 

The diffs listed in MSA are from Nismo, they're a clutch type diff. There are LSDs from Quaife as well which I believe are similar to helical diffs, but those cost a lot more than the Nismo diffs. Phantom Grip makes a pseudo LSD for the R200s, it is a couple of plates that install into the diff and make it work like a positrac. Sport Compact car did an article on them about a year ago. The general consensus on zcar is that they are junk though, since they tend to break under drag launches.

 

Couple questions, hopefully it won't seem like I'm disagreeing and trying to argue with ya'll. But curious as to what other cars have diffs that are this expensive?

I'm thinking terms of Detroit Lockers for the 3 major US brands for 500 max.

Also, is it possible with these diffs to weld your spider gears together? Obviously its backwoods. But if its a strictly track car, then shouldn't be too big of a deal.

 

Yes it is possible to weld them together. That would be great for a drag car but crap for a road racer. It would cause heinous understeer on turns.

You can get the same NISMO LSD from West Coast Differentials under the Precision Gear brand Power Brute model for about $525.

It's actually manufactured by Fuji Heavy Industries for PG and NISMO.

The only issue, is they only make the 12mm version for the 300ZX R200. The 280Z/ZX uses 10mm bolts.

There have been several people that have successfully made 10mm to 12mm shims to make up the difference.

Expect to pay someone a couple hundred to install it and shim it properly.

You can pick up a Quaife for around $1300 + install. These have a lifetime unconditional warranty.

 

Just as an example, if you look in the MSA catalog, right above the Nismo unit, is the quaife going for $1900. $500 bucks is a lot of money to me. And I was thinking the Nismo was only $999, just noticed today it's almost $1400. No offense taken Mooney.

And as a more direct answer to your question, I can attest to the cost of US built diffs, but if you cross the pond to the land of the rising sun, you'll find some rediculously priced parts, inc. diffs. And yeah, you can weld em, but like was mentioned, don't try taking a turn like that, you don't want both sides of the car going the same speed, the outside tire should be spinning faster than the inside tire, as it's got further to go.

 

I knew if you were going to weld them, then better it be just a drag car. Just wasn't sure how this diff was built. I've got a buddy who runs a spool in a Falcon and its a mess.

Happy no offense was taken though. I'm just not used to the prices for import parts. Thanks for the explanation.

 

Hey Mooney, I used to have a 65 stang too. It had a built 302(from a 68) and man I loved that car. To this day, still the second fastest car I've ever been in. I stated her demise in the lsd! post. Fastest was my buds 300zxTT, not just straight line, around curves too. I've seen that thing take everything from Ferraris and Porshes 911's to Corvettes and a Cobra R(drag race)! Never did get the chance to race a Viper though, it was stolen about 8 mo. ago right after he dumped about $20k in it. He took a Ferrari(the front engine one, don't know what it's called, not an italian fan) while running on only 5 cylinders too. That thing was a monster, it was pushing almost 600 to the wheels. Broke down atleast once a month though.

I apologize for this post having nothing to do with the 280zx.

 

I love that lil car. I got it when I was 14 was an I6; now its a built 302 out an 87 stang. I need to put some time aside to put my roots supercharger on it. Then aluminum heads. I think I'll stop with it once I hit the 11's LOL. Nice friendly street car.

Once I get the roots on, I'd like to get the Datsun ready for paint. I've got some nice ideas in my head for it. Can't have two cars down though. Theres just not enough time in the day.

 

You gotta love those flip flops though. Don't leave home without them, even if it's snowing. Let me know what you run after you get that blower on there! Mine was built for road racing, I never did take it to the drag strip. I had the trick flow heads on there with a beautiful Barry Grant Demon Carb and full length Kooks headers. The best part, everything but the carb was already on it when I bought it for $600. Thats right $600. The guy bought it from a retired sheriff dep. and blew the tranny. He had no idea what he had when he sold it to me. Just said it was real fast, and he didn't care for the roll cage or the mirror that spanned the entire windshield. I popped the trunk when I got home and found an entire Mallory ignition system inc. dist. and the trickflow heads still in the box. He had described them as "spare parts" SUCKER! I almost wet myself.

 

Then I crashed it trying to show off with my friend in the car, took a turn to fast, hit the gas(I thought I had it) and skimmed the center divider. Flipped her. She rolled all the way across the other side of the street, somehow missing oncoming traffic, down an embankment and right onto the baseball diamond at the sportspark. Thank god for four-point harnesses! It looked like someone ran it over with a tank. I walked back up the embankment, passed the hood and bumpers, passed the left front wheel, and found my engine and transmission bottlenecking traffic back on the road. If I had a gun, I probably would've shot myself. My 280zx is the first car I've driven since the stang that gives me that pure enjoyment feeling.

 

Do you know if the Quaife unit has the same issue with different sized bolts (10mm vs 12mm)?

 

No. The Quaife is drilled for both 10mm & 12mm! It will work in any R200.

That's why I put it in my Turbo.

Although I am getting a clutch LSD for the 300ZX 3.90 R200 going in my 240z.

 

You sure about that? According to the MSA catalog, their LSD's have "about 45lbs of breakaway torque". In the Nismo catalog, the S130 LSD says 70lbs of breakaway torque. What does a breakaway torque rating mean for performance?

 

Breakaway torque is the amount of force needed for the differential to start biasing torque towards the wheel with more traction. In an LSD, both wheels want to turn the same speed. A certain amount of torque is required from the wheel with traction to overpower the LSD into transfering most of the torque to that wheel, this is breakaway torque. Because it breaks the torque away from the slipping wheel and puts it towards the good wheel. In a clutch type diff. the amount of torque the good wheel will get is equal to the amount of torque it takes to overpower the clutches in the LSD, which is your breakaway torque. In a torsen type diff., much more torque can be applied to the wheel with traction.

 

Oh and as far as performance goes, a higher rating is usually better as long as it's not too high. Otherwise it can shock driveline components into breaking. Can you imagine a car with 300lb/ft putting all that torque to just one axle? Somethings gonna break or the good wheels just gonna slip too. So you don't want a rating higher than your car can handle. The 45lbs diff will engage at a lower torque, but less will get transfered to the good wheel. The 70lbs one will need more torque to engage, but you'll get more torque to your wheel. For performance the higher rating is better. If you're trying to get out of a snow drift, the lower would probably benefit you more.

 

Hmm, crap, that makes the decision harder. It's a street driven car, so 45lbs sounds more appropriate. But I don't want the limited-slip effect to be so weak that I don't even know it's there. Or, since my application is a turbo model, do you think the higher output would make the 70lb LSD more appropriate?

 

I'd go with the higher rating. It's not high enough to adversely affect anything. I was just saying that if the one with lower torque rating is cheaper then I'd go for that one if performance wasn't a factor. I think Stock Cars use something like 140 lbs of breakaway torque, I could be wrong but I think I read that somewhere. Also, and this is strictly to make a point, if you drove something like a Geo Metro, you wouldn't even have enough torque coming outta your engine to even engage the clutches in the 70lbs unit, so the diff would just stay locked, and thats bad on the tires. So if you figure the stock torque rating of an NA ZX(bleach?), it's probably not enough to necessitate the use of the 70lbs unit because you gotta figure that the torque gets split between both wheels. But it would still work. If you're planning on modding an NA car or have a turbo car, I would definitely recommend the 70lbs unit. And as a side note: on a lot of aftermarket diffs, you can rearrange the clutches to change the breakaway torque rating and also change the diffs over all behavior (ie:2way to a 1.5 way diff), based on how you like the car to handle.

 

I went to differentials.com (the West Coast Differentials site) and didn't find anything related to Nissans. It was all GM, Ford, and Toyota stuff. Got a link?

Regarding the Quaife, I notice it doesn't list any breakaway torque specs. Does anyone know what it is? Or because of its different design, is it more "analog" in the way it transfers torque?

 

OK, heres the deal on the Quaife units. Whereas the Nissan units are clutch type LSD's, the quaife is a torsen type diff (mechanical). The Quaife doesn't have a breakaway torque rating. I'm not sure what the max torque transfer the 280zx Quaifes are capable of transfering, but a torsen unit can handle upwards of 9:1 torque bias to the nonslipping wheel. The Quaife is locked under no slip acceleration, and LSD when a wheel starts slipping. However, unlike a clutch type diff. Both wheels must have atleast SOME traction, otherwise it goes into open mode, because it has to sense the torque of the slipping wheel in order to transfer to the good wheel (it uses a ratio). So this kind isn't too good to have in an icey area if you're looking for traction. This is a racing diff. If neither wheel can grab traction(ice), it will go into open mode, which is like you don't even have a diff. It will also do the same thing under breaking. So technically, this is only a 1 way differential. But on the upside, it will perform flawlessly in both drag or road course racing, and has a much faster reaction time then other types of diffs. Not to say this diff can't be used on the street, quite the contrary. But in certain conditions, it will just be like you don't have an LSD at all. It won't cause any problems though.

 

Also, I forgot to put this in my post (as if it wasn't already long enough), Quaife puts a lifetime warranty on all their differential units. Even if you race them. After all thats what they're made for. Now how many companies back up their products even when you abuse them like you do at the track. Not too many.