Duck Ryder

Hello everyone, thanks for the help i have gotten with previous question... Have another question. My car idles fine however it is lacking in power when accelerating and you can smell fuel. The exhaust leak on it has gotten really bad, I am thinking that the O2 sensor is picking up air getting in through the leak (had a celica that did that once). However i do not have the option right now to fix the leak (time constraints and the fact that i am not home). I was wondering if there was a way to lean out the engine manually? (i know nothing ) I was thinking of just disconnecting the O2 sensor and seeing if that helps a little. Any suggestions would be great!

Thanks again

CAR: 1982 280ZXT 5-Speed

hoov100

check the contacts on the TPS it shouldnt touch the WOT contact until its at WOT..

duowing

Does the car seem to lack in the lower RPMs and then do fine in higher RPMs? My car would really lack in power in the lower powerband when my O2 sensor wasn't working. Once I replaced it I suddenly had a lot more power in the lower end.I don't think your exhaust leak is enough to affect your car. I had a pretty bad leak at the manifold, but my car would still run pretty darn good. Run the car for a bit, get it at normal operating temp, then while the car is idling check that little green LED on the bottom of the ECU. See if it's blinking, staying lit constantly, or not doing anything at all. If it is blinking then your O2 sensor is working. I've also had two other instances where the light was permanently lit and where it didn't do anything indicating a bad O2 signal.

Duck Ryder

The engine does start to run smoother after I hit 4000 RPM s, but still sluggish.

What is WOT?
...I am not ruling out the TPS (Throttle position sensor?) as being the culprit, the connector is fairly corroded over, I've tried some spray cleaner, but i don't have a file to clean it thoroughly until I get home... that is why I am looking to artificially lean it out until I can get home.

hoov100

WOT=wide open throttle if you pull off the black cover on the TPS there are two contacts with a little bar in the middle, at idle it should only touch the contact on the left, it should only touch the right contact when the throttle is wide open..

SHADY280

go over all your connections, you just said its pretty corroded. clean them, it makes a huge difference in these cars, and i mean huge.

duowing

Well the TPS on the Turbo cars don't detect WOT. They only do Idle and off Idle. Like I said check your O2 sensor LED on the bottom of the ECU and see if that's working after running then idling. If it was your TPS I think you'd be experiencing more problems, but I've never actually experienced a TPS related problem so I don't know. One of my biggest problems was my car would run like crap when it was cold and then pretty good when warm which turned out to be related to the Cylinder Head Temp Sensor(CHTS). It sounds to me like it's more O2 related that and possibly vacuum leaks. The other day my car felt a little slow accelerating right off the bat and it turned out I had a small vacuum leak that was causing an issue.

Duck Ryder

Just when you start to think you know what you are doing... you discover that you have been barking up the wrong tree...

Injectors are leaking onto the top side of the intake manifold... and they are leaking badly... after running it for a bit there will be at least a cup of fuel sitting on the manifold (some are leaking worse than others)... shall check that and update in a bit

duowing

Well if they are leaking alot that can affect the spray and pressure, etc, but I still don't know if that's enough to cause you to run bad, seeing as I've had leaking injectors and when replaced it didn't make the car run any better. I'd recommend if you get new injectors get some remans from RockAuto they're about $30 an injector, with a $10 core, so $40 per injector and I've had no problem with them. I was just trying to save myself some money.

naviathan

Actually if they're leaking that much they've probably been leaking for a while and the nozzle seals are probably dry rotted and leaking causing vacuum leaks which would make the car run bad.

Duck Ryder

Getting the injectors out has been difficult... bolts that haven't moved in 25 years...

So, I have taken a picture to show where the fuel is leaking out, can anybody tell me if that is a bad injector or is the o-rings seal just need to be replaced? Also, how long does it take two swap out injectors? It looks to me that the fuel is coming out between the injectors and the hold down plates...




Thanks



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duowing

I'm pretty sure that's a bad injector. Really the injectors aren't that hard to do it's just knowing what you have to do, I've gotten so good at it that I can do it in about 2 hours or less. That's pulling, and re-installing. Just gotta know where everything is.

There's I believe 3 12mm bolts holding the rail down, a 14mm holding the rail right to the intake manifold, the 12mm nut, 12mm bolt and the one 10mm bolt holding the uppermost tensioner pulley, rail is behind that that, and another 12mm bolt on the passenger side holding it to I think the power steering bracket. Also when you get it all out and are putting your new injectors in, use WD-40 or something to lube up the hoses and test fit all the injectors to the rail, then pull them all off and make sure you put the injectors and O-rings all in first, then that way you can work the rail in there and slide the rail onto the hoses. I've tried to put the rail in with all the injectors attached it was a waste of time. I'm sure it can be done, but it's more of a pain, plus this way you can make sure you have all the injectors and their connectors facing the correct way to make hooking up the connectors back up easier.

Duck Ryder

Wow, pretty detailed, I noticed that it was odd that there were no odd numbered sized bolts...

Anyways, got the injectors off and saw exactly where they were leaking from. They are leaking at the seam between the plastic cap that the electrical wires plug into and the body of the fuel injectors. Here is a thumbnail link to a larger image.


Thanks for the recommendation, I saw those and were considering them.

frank280zx

if it leaks there changes are you have vac leak there causing it to run like crap you would also need to replace the seals, new injectors can be found on ebay pretty cheap.. however if you plan on upgrades in the near future i would advise some bigger ones of the bat

duowing

Oh the remanned injectors also come with new O-rings.

Duck Ryder

Just to make sure we are on the same page... these are the ones you are referring to on RockAuto:

GB REMANUFACTURING Part # 84213104 More Info {FUEL INJECTOR, REMANUFACTURED, Includes new O-rings and seals}

$28.79 $10.00 $38.79


With todays gas prices and living off of a student income... probably never going to happen
:s-redeemer:

duowing

Yeah those are the ones.