Have you verified that the TPS is functioning properly?

 

Nope, went and borrowed a voltmeter from a friend to check the TPS just now.

 

So would a bad Cylinder Head Temp Sensor cause my problems? Because sho'nuff I tested everything else and when I got to that, it was only reading about 500ohms.

 

a bad CHTS will cause all kinds of problems But especially lean/rich problems.

How hot was the engine when you took that reading? If the engine was at operating temperature then thats an OK reading. The sensor will read 500 ohms at around 140-160*F

So the TPS checked out and was in proper adjustment then?

 

The engine had been sitting with the hood open and not running for a while, probably 30-45 minutes when I took the reading. Before that I only took it for a very short drive (~1.5 miles) to go to get the volt/ohmmeter to do the testing. The temp needle was about 2/3rds of the way to the middle of the gauge when I shut it off if that's any more helpful. Where can I find a CHTS as well if it is the cause? Neither Advance nor AutoZone carry 'em around here.

I'm not sure if the TPS checked out. When I tested it as per FSM instructions, it got continuity before full throttle (when testing full throttle continuity) and the signal jumped a little as the throttle was depressed/released. I didn't test the adjustment part because it was getting dark out and I'm not sure how exactly to do that, which I was gonna come on here and ask about

 

The car has been sitting? Everyone else seemed to miss that, change the fuel filter if you havent already, replace the injector connectors, and the CHTS connector. Just replace all the vacuum lines for peace of mind, and pull the cap off again and make sure the distributor shaft isnt too sloppy, anything more than like .010 of an inch wiggle side to side is too much. a sloppy distributor will play havoc with timing and eventually the teeth on the shaft will eat the reluctor and car no run no good no more. Clean the terminals on the injectors and sensors and AFM again, and jam lots of dielectric grease in everything when you reassemble. Also check for leaks in the exhaust and intake My intake and exhaust were so leaky the bolts were loose. make sure the CHTS isnt bad too.

 

Not to be rude but, wanna loan me some money? I don't quite have $300 laying around to put into it and hope that it fixes the problem, that's why I'm trying to find what's causing the problem.

So I searched several times, and looked in my FSM, but I can't find this anywhere - What're the proper voltages for the TPS at idle/WOT?

 

there is no specific voltage. You check it in OHMs. When there is no throttle the tps should just be reading continuity period. When the throttle is moved .3 mm then there should no longer be continuity.

All the things jmmorismo said would not cost much. A good way to check your injector connectors would be to have the car running. Disconnect one clip at a time. See if there's any change in the idle. If there is, reconnect and move to the next one. If not make note of it and move to the next one. I used this method when one of my connectors wasn't connected properly and was causing running issues.

Fuel Filter can be had for under $10. Easier way to check is just disconnect guel pump connector in the back under the carpeting in the hatch. Crank the car a few times to relieve pressure, then pull out the filter and blow through it. If you can then your filter is alright.

Above all I think you really need to check your timing. Get some whiteout and a buddy who knows how to do timing. It's really easy and you can do it in the day or at night. It's quite possibly the biggest help. If you have turbo injectors I wouldn't be surprised if the timing has been advanced to try and make up for the extra gas that they'd be injecting. Also pull out your spark plugs and check them. All of this is very easy to do and doesn't take long, plus it costs no money unless you need some whiteout. You said you already had a Light. Like I said, I had originally set my timing correctly so I kept skipping over that as a possibility, but after my Ignition Module/Ignition Coil was changed I did recheck the timing to find it way out of wack and it was having very similar symptoms like your car.

 

my money's on the fuel pump.... *glances around* it sounds like what happened to me
like SHADY280 said, i'd check the pressure
i hooked up a pressure guage to the fuel line coming out of the fuel filter and the pressure wasn't enough to feed the car at higher than idling rpms but was enough to spray gas all over the place...

 

See my car did that too. The car would seem to idle fine, but as soon as you gave it more than a very small tap of gas the car would want to fall flat on it's face. Or you'd have to rev the car ridiculously slowly. We checked fuel pressure and my fuel pressure was pretty much right on when earlier that day for some reason it was running smoothly.

 

I took the TPS off and it looks very corroded on the outside, and it's very stiff to turn (It doesn't seem to have a return spring either, I know most do). It seems there's a way to open it up but I can't seem to get it open and I don't want to risk breaking it.

 

These TPS didn't have a return spring to begin with. It just works in the way that the throttle valve moves it.

 

the corrosion on the plug will play into the problem, plus it should move freely, but yes no spring, and CHECK THE FUEL PRESSURE.

 

Hey man, I was reading some of your thread at Hybridz. Congrats on getting your Turbo swap done. And you really were moving right along with it. Props bro, someday I will have mine turboed also. I also recently aquired another Z, an '83. Real straight body on it. Go ahead and check it out in the 280zx forums. Here is a link to it. https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx-s130-forums-77/pics-my-soon-1983-280zx-19849/

All aside, this website is great to me man. I have learned a great deal on here, about Z's. And I love coming on here everyday, and seeing what is going on. My advice my friend, is chill bro'. Don't try and atogonize people again on here. There are some great individuals on this website. As I am sure there is on HybridZ. I am just trying to give you some friendly advice man. Don't take offense to it, and good luck with your 280zxt.