New purchase, can of worms
01-04-2013 | 11:11 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 5
From: Salem, OR
New purchase, can of worms
Hey there,
I'm new to the forums (at least the s130 forums) and just purchased a 1982 280zx 5speed. She runs great and all but I have a list of issues that will be weeded out over the next week or so. Here's a picture so we're all on the same page:
And here's the list of issues:
1. Crank no start unless using starting fluid or jump starting (assuming battery CCA incorrect?)
2. Knock when releasing or engaging the clutch (sounds like a bad u-joint)
3. Water symbol shows when Check button pressed. (pulling out the FSM for this one)
4. Windows don't roll down (need to check the breaker, then proceed with T/S)
5. Need interior pieces. (surprising that the plastic dry rotted yet the carpets were damp when I got it.)
6. Defroster doesn't blow air at all (found air ducting in the back, under the carpet and foam)
7. Sluggish in low RPM's when cold (up to ~2500 RPM), sometimes gives a small intake backfire.
8. Speedo was swapped, so don't know actual mileage on chassis/engine.
9. Minor rust and body damage on rear lower quarter panel, also minor rust along the rear seam where the plastic interior covering belongs.
Aside from that list, I found a stack of receipts in the car (
) indicating the previous owner obviously loved the car, having dropped over $5k into it over a period of 10 years. The head looks like it was recently done, though there's no indication in the receipts that it was. All in all, I think she's got loads of potential once these small hiccups get resolved. I look forward to engaging with the community here, and bringing this car back to its glory days. 
I'm new to the forums (at least the s130 forums) and just purchased a 1982 280zx 5speed. She runs great and all but I have a list of issues that will be weeded out over the next week or so. Here's a picture so we're all on the same page:
And here's the list of issues:
1. Crank no start unless using starting fluid or jump starting (assuming battery CCA incorrect?)
2. Knock when releasing or engaging the clutch (sounds like a bad u-joint)
3. Water symbol shows when Check button pressed. (pulling out the FSM for this one)
4. Windows don't roll down (need to check the breaker, then proceed with T/S)
5. Need interior pieces. (surprising that the plastic dry rotted yet the carpets were damp when I got it.)
6. Defroster doesn't blow air at all (found air ducting in the back, under the carpet and foam)
7. Sluggish in low RPM's when cold (up to ~2500 RPM), sometimes gives a small intake backfire.
8. Speedo was swapped, so don't know actual mileage on chassis/engine.
9. Minor rust and body damage on rear lower quarter panel, also minor rust along the rear seam where the plastic interior covering belongs.
Aside from that list, I found a stack of receipts in the car (
) indicating the previous owner obviously loved the car, having dropped over $5k into it over a period of 10 years. The head looks like it was recently done, though there's no indication in the receipts that it was. All in all, I think she's got loads of potential once these small hiccups get resolved. I look forward to engaging with the community here, and bringing this car back to its glory days.
01-04-2013 | 02:52 PM
#2
Grumpy & Helpful
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,415
From: Mill Creek WA
1. do the following. Get an Interstate battery. Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
2 Likelythe diffy mount.
3. float switch in the expansion tank
4. Check the door switches. hot wire the motors to be sure they work.
5. plastic don't care about water
6. replace the duct be sure your vacuum lines are all intact.
7. check your chts.
8 and 9 what is your question or just liked typing.
download the fsm from xenon. READ IT.
BONUS QUESTION - Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.
Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
2 Likelythe diffy mount.
3. float switch in the expansion tank
4. Check the door switches. hot wire the motors to be sure they work.
5. plastic don't care about water
6. replace the duct be sure your vacuum lines are all intact.
7. check your chts.
8 and 9 what is your question or just liked typing.
download the fsm from xenon. READ IT.
BONUS QUESTION - Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.
01-04-2013 | 04:55 PM
#3
Mr Z++ Wiki
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,195
From: Victoria, BC
Welcome to the club!
Grab the FSM and go through the EFI section - you'll probably get rid or most gremlins that way...
#4 - Check the breaker for the power windows. It's kind of hidden near the fuse panel...
...and there's the other school of thought where if it's not worn or broken don't replace it and spend the money fixing stuff that needs to be fixed. Ball joints and tie rods do commonly wear on these cars (may be the originals but they are 30 years old!) but you can check them - they may have already been replaced recently.
If you replace bushings with urethane make sure that you don't replace both sides of the TC rod with urethane or it will likely break. Urethane is a great upgrade for your suspension parts.
Grab the FSM and go through the EFI section - you'll probably get rid or most gremlins that way...
#4 - Check the breaker for the power windows. It's kind of hidden near the fuse panel...
...and there's the other school of thought where if it's not worn or broken don't replace it and spend the money fixing stuff that needs to be fixed. Ball joints and tie rods do commonly wear on these cars (may be the originals but they are 30 years old!) but you can check them - they may have already been replaced recently.
If you replace bushings with urethane make sure that you don't replace both sides of the TC rod with urethane or it will likely break. Urethane is a great upgrade for your suspension parts.
01-05-2013 | 06:42 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 5
From: Salem, OR
Thanks for the responses, rogerz and FricFrac.
rogerz, 8 and 9 were just side details I felt like sharing. As for the FSM, I have it and use it religiously. Thanks for the tip of checking the float switch in the expansion tank for #3. It doesn't really bother me, just kinda annoying seeing the little red square. As for #6, turns out the previous owner ripped out all the ducting behind the dash so the blower motor just moves cold air around freely. Would make sense all vacuum lines would be missing as well, since moving the switch for bi-level and all that does nothing, the blend doors don't actuate or anything.. On #7, will proceed with diagnosing the CHTS, definitely a possibility.
FricFrac, thanks for the tip on the circuit breaker, I intend on getting out there and jumping it as I read here somewhere to verify if that's the issue, and if not then will move forward with, as rogerz said, hot wiring the motors to verify they actually work.
Still learning the car, issues here and there showing their heads. Will definitely be sharing updates as I go through and repair x y and z.
rogerz, 8 and 9 were just side details I felt like sharing. As for the FSM, I have it and use it religiously. Thanks for the tip of checking the float switch in the expansion tank for #3. It doesn't really bother me, just kinda annoying seeing the little red square. As for #6, turns out the previous owner ripped out all the ducting behind the dash so the blower motor just moves cold air around freely. Would make sense all vacuum lines would be missing as well, since moving the switch for bi-level and all that does nothing, the blend doors don't actuate or anything.. On #7, will proceed with diagnosing the CHTS, definitely a possibility.
FricFrac, thanks for the tip on the circuit breaker, I intend on getting out there and jumping it as I read here somewhere to verify if that's the issue, and if not then will move forward with, as rogerz said, hot wiring the motors to verify they actually work.
Still learning the car, issues here and there showing their heads. Will definitely be sharing updates as I go through and repair x y and z.
Just like this!
01-08-2013 | 03:18 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 5
From: Salem, OR
Lesnocker, are those the tension control rods from TTT? or did you fab those yourself?
Fixed the windows and went to the junkyard to pull the ducting for the defroster. I think I grabbed the wrong side though :/ so back to the yard I'll be one of these days.
Fixed the windows and went to the junkyard to pull the ducting for the defroster. I think I grabbed the wrong side though :/ so back to the yard I'll be one of these days.
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