Forgot to mention, depending on how you're looking to drive it. The Turbo is definitely quicker, but the N/A make a pretty nice cruiser and gets actually pretty decent gas mileage. I honestly wouldn't mind another 280ZX N/A with a 5-speed as just a car to drive around, but I would probably miss the extra power of the turbo. Plus you can easily mod them for a little extra power while keeping them reliable. Any more than that and you will need to actually upgrade other parts.

 

Hi duowing, great to meet another person from Ohio! I am in Cincinnati but have a brother that lives near Akron so I'm up there frequently so maybe we could connect in the near future.

My major concern with the red car was that the seller claimed the engine was rebuilt within the last 5k miles but had a pretty bad oil leak around where the block meets the head. During the test drive, I could smell burning oil and assume that was the origin. Given the leak, I presume the rebuild might not have received the necessary attention it deserved and left me wondering what else could have been wrong. Perhaps I'm mistaken and it's not that big of a deal but a risk I was not willing to take.

Also, the seats felt damp like they had been wet lately, probably due to the doors both missing weather stripping. The seller said he sourced replacements for around $35; although, my research has indicated it would cost far more.

Other minor things that I found:
-Felt like a new clutch would be in order in the very near future
-Hatch release lever has something wrong with the spring and it actually came open while driving
-Car has a foul odor, probably given it was a barn find for the seller
-Rear carpet completely missing

All that being said, there is very little rust on the car so if you can buy it for the right price, and don't mind correcting the leak, maybe a good option. He did drop the price quickly, he went from 4.5 to 3.5 when I asked about his "best price". Again, my main reason for not purchasing was the leak and just a gut feeling the car wasn't worth even 3.5k.

Ideally, I would love to find a turbo but this will be mainly more of a cruiser so the lower power of an N/A wouldn't be a problem. As others have mentioned, I've looked on what appears to be the higher end of the price range as, ideally, I would like to find a reliable base with minimal rust and sound engine to build from.

That being said, I did find the following a bit closer in IN, might have a look tonight. Higher on the price scale as I would need to add the body kit and paint but requires minimal interior work. No t-tops or sunroof but has working AC and full service records from the single owner. 1982 Datsun 280ZX - Used Car Carmel IN | Indy Auto Source Inc.

 

A word of advice, don't buy one of these cars with a sunroof unless you're just asking for trouble. They are aftermarket installations and I have yet to see one that hasn't completely rusted out or is leaking. It's just not worth it.

 

Just an update, I ended up purchasing the blue 1982 2+2 slick top from my earlier link. Somewhat disappointed I didn't get t-tops but still a great start.

The only problem I have found with the car is a very loud rattle from somewhere mid to rear of the car when hitting a bump. It only did this on the highway over 60 MPH, has not made the noise on city streets. Any idea if this would be the rear suspension or the differential mount?

Outside of that, the car is in great shape, only two very small (less than an inch each) of surface rust. Interior is almost perfect with no cracks on the original dash, only needs a new armrest as it shows minimal wear but that is if I'm being really picky. All electronics and gauges are operational.

 

How much?

 

Congrats!

Take some pictures for us! Is that one a turbo? (Looks like the link to the posting is gone)

 

Thank you, it's a 1982 2+2 slick top N/A, acquired for $4,200. Maybe I'm missing something but it will not allow me to upload an image only link to one posted on the web...

Anyone have any ideas on where to start with that rattle from mid to rear of the car when hitting larger bumps at highway speed?

 

Are you using the "Manage Attachment" button below the new post box? If it says "upload failed" it's usually because the file is too big (the file size specs on on that window too).

Put it in the air and check things out.

 

Let me try this again...

 

Those are the pics from the seller but are accurate, I'll take some more as things progress.

Nismo - any idea of where to start, haven't lifted it yet as I got home to late last night and working today. But, suspension feels fairly good. Based on my research, it sounded if it could be the diff mount but acceleration plays no part, only have the problem on larger bumps at higher speeds.

 

Nice car! Good luck with everything but the only way to find out is to lift it and check out everything.

 

Looks great!

Interior is just like mine, but I've got the leather.

 

veroommm!!...turbo turbo turbo....have fun.

 

[QUOTE=corbith;The only problem I have found with the car is a very loud rattle from somewhere mid to rear of the car when hitting a bump. It only did this on the highway over 60 MPH, has not made the noise on city streets. Any idea if this would be the rear suspension or the differential mount?[/QUOTE]

I would start by checking all of the rubber around the hatch. If the rubber is shot the hatch will rattle, mine sounds like its getting tossed on the floor of an empty warehouse every time I close it. If the hatch checks out I would think the shocks/struts would be next, my last 300zx had that issue.

 

Thanks Twiggs, the lift supports are shot and will not even hold the hatch open. I actually just ordered new yesterday, could this be a cause? I've been searching and found that it could be diff mount, u joint or suspension. The suspension seems to be fairly good and the noise has nothing to do with acceleration only when I hit a bump at highway speed. Wouldn't the diff mount or u joint be impacted by acceleration? As others have recommended I'm going to get it in the air and have a detailed look this weekend.

 

You'd likely feel it if it was the U-joint or diff mount. My car jerked when I accelerated or decelerated because my diff mount was loose.

 

I was thinking the same thing but will check it out. Any helpful hints as to what to look for while under the car? Should it be the diff mount, is that hard to change? Placing an order today for the body kit from The Z Store and they have the mount, not that expensive so I was thinking about replacing anyway.

 

Rear diff insulator bushing is about 72 bux i just changed mine. But my issue was the rear cross member insulator bushings... and i had a low speed clunk. By the way not at higher speed.

 

Unless you have tons of cash burning a hole in your pocket, there's no reason to buy parts *****-nilly. Buy parts when you know you need them.

 

LOL... That is not the case, just understand it appears to be a common point of failure based on my research. I thought it would be a good idea to go ahead and replace given the low part cost and given I was already placing an order.

Any helpful tips on replacing the diff mount?

 

So I'm going to get the car up this weekend and was curious if anyone could offer suggested jack and stand points? The areas identified in the manual for the jack, two notches near the side on front and back, don't appear like the best points for jack stands.