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No clutch pressure

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Old 11-02-2009, 09:00 AM
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The Emblem Thief y0!
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No clutch pressure

As the title says.

I took the engine out, thinking i was dropping in my RB, but then i got a notice from the city saying there had been some complaining about the lack of engine.

Got it in there, all hooked up, hoses tightened... no clutch pressure.

Is there a blue spring that attaches to the clutch pedal? Or does the car just need to be turned on for it to get pressure again?
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Old 11-02-2009, 09:52 AM
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Did you check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder?
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by NismoPick
Did you check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder?
Full =(

Edit: I cant find any leaks anywhere, D=

Last edited by WanganDevilZ; 11-02-2009 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 11-02-2009, 11:02 AM
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Then it needs to be bled.
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Old 11-02-2009, 01:16 PM
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If the clutch system was drained then it will need to be bled as Pick said.
I have found it a bit harder to get it started than brake bleeding.

Gravity bleeding works well on the clutch. it just takes some time.
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Old 11-17-2009, 08:17 PM
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did everything my chilton and haynes manual said to do with bleeding, wont do anything!

how do you guys do it (properly?)
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Old 12-16-2009, 01:04 PM
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Do you have air leaking around the bleeder valve? Wrap some Teflon tape around the bleeder screw and try again.
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Old 12-16-2009, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by KayakTN
Do you have air leaking around the bleeder valve? Wrap some Teflon tape around the bleeder screw and try again.
Doesnt the bleeder screw have a hole in it to attach a hose to?

The screw is tight, and there's nothing to compromise any seal.
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Old 12-17-2009, 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by WanganDevilZ
Doesnt the bleeder screw have a hole in it to attach a hose to?

The screw is tight, and there's nothing to compromise any seal.
This if off subject. And not to poke at you or anything. But did you know, that in your signature. It says 1923 280zx? Just wanted to see if you are aware of it.
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Old 12-17-2009, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by WanganDevilZ
Doesnt the bleeder screw have a hole in it to attach a hose to?

The screw is tight, and there's nothing to compromise any seal.
I had similar symptoms with my last master cylinder. After rebuilding it, I bled it and still couldn't build up any pressure. Every time I opened the bleeder valve, air would get into the system. The teflon tape worked like a charm.
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Old 12-17-2009, 03:23 PM
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I'd replace the master if its original. then gravity bleed (open the bleeder screw until fluid is dripping out). then after that get a buddy, open the bleeder have them push on the pedal, fluid should squirt out, then close the bleeder, have them pull the pedal back up. after that it should have pressure. if not, repeat, and remember to pump it between bleeds. after it has pressure, have the buddy push on the clutch and hold it down, then crack open the bleeder fluid will squirt out then close the bleeder. after that, get some clear nylon hose that fits the bleeder. get a empty dry water bottle, fill the water bottle 1/3 full then stick the hose over the bleeder screw and the other end submerged into the bottle with fluid.(remember to ALWAYS check the fluid level) after wards you open the bleeder screw and just pump the pedal, should evacuate all the air, pump until theres no more air bubbles. then for the FINAL bleed procedure if you want to be crazy thorough, with the nylon hose setup still going, have the buddy push down on the peddal and HOLD IT THERE then crack open the bleeder, while he is still holding the clutch down, take the slave cylinder pushrod and push it ALL THE WAY into the slave cylinder then hold it in there and close the bleeder, it should evacuate that super hard to get out air. then top off the fluid and pump the biotch. that is how i am going to bleed my talons clutch so i can hopefully get rid of my gear grind and pedal that changes feeling all the time.
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