I have 1982 280zx turbo, Ive been having problems with my car dying and then it always starts back up. alot of things have been replaced trying to correct this, and now it died and wont start and i dont have power to the fuel pump. I put new relays in and it still isnt getting power. please help.

 

If the ECU don't turn on. then the fuel pump won't. Make sure the ECU is turning on. and shake car or somthing to see if there is a loose ground to make ECU click one and off. That could explain problem.

 

The ecu doesn't control the fuel pump on the turbo model. There is a fuel pump control module mounted above the ecu. The fuel pump is grounded via that box, so that box must be grounded to the body. If it is grounded, you might have a faulty fuel pump mod. You can also use a multi-meter & check the voltage.

 

I will check into that, i didnt see anything like that in the service manual when i was trying to troubleshoot it. thank you.

 

still more people havin pump wiring probs.
I am having the same thing wrong with mine. I am running a hole seprat power to the pump. new switch,fuses,wire...
now I can shut mine off (pump) manually...

WHAT the hell is goin wrong with these things....just gettin old???

I still have not gotten everything done I am waiting for a manual I just bought in the mail to make sure the wiring is right and I dont make things worse LOL
will do a write up on it when finished

LATER

 

my freinds 76 S30 has a fuel pump problem. His won't cut on. he has a toggle switch connected to it. I don't know what controls the pump on that model. Wish i did.

 

It's not generally a problem with the fuel pump, it's usually the result of 20 to 30 year old wiring that was border line when it was new.

Add 20 to 30 years of abuse, heat & cold cycling and corrosion and it will expose itself as the weakest link in our cars.

 

when i rewired my 81 I reused whatever good wires I could from the old harness to save some money. MOST of the grounds from under the dash were really corroded. And I'm not talking about correded on the ends either. I would take an apparently good wire and cut it to the lenght I needed then strip it for soldering. Upon stripping I would find a wire so corroded that the wire itself had turned black and was covered in a layer of green corrossion. This would go on for several feet in some wires. This problem seemed to occur 90% of the time only in the wires originally used for grounds. I gave up on trying to use the old ground wires and just bought new wire for that. It's no surprise I had so many electrical issues before hand

And this was all wiring that was inside the engine compartment where it is supposedly protected. And it was the wiring inside the insulation that was corroding, not the exposed ends of the wires. Thats a personal testament to just how bad this stuff is/can get. But at the same time most of the non-grounding wires from inside the passenger compartment were still in surprisingly good shape. Some had a little corrosion on the ends but were otherwise still good for reuse once I cut them back a little.

 

I put a tester on what i think is the fuel pump control module and it had power going in and power coming out, but the power coming out was only 9.8 volts, i suppose that could be the problem, but i figure if theres power going out it should still run the pump. im confused because there seems to be power going and coming where it should be, but im still not getting power at the fuel pump.

 

It's a dual stage fuel pump control module. At idle it SHOULD be getting about 9-10 volts & above ~1500 rpm it should jump to 12-13 volts.

 

I was gettin 9.8 volts with the key in the on position.

 

thats normal.

 

samn problem with my 82 turbo.. fuel pump relay right behind the glove box i personnaly wired in a hot wire to a on/off switch to control my fuel pump. I have tomorow off from work so i will fix that minor problem tomorow..

 

Yeah, it sounds like it might be a wiring issue, which can be a real pita to trace. Place the key in the ignition to the "on" position, then giggle the key. Do the dash lights come on or go off? Your ignition switch might be the problem, or the wiring.

 

It's not worth the trouble. You can just donate your car to me I'm fiending for another 280zx right about now

 

The ignition is brand new,Ive tried pretty much everything, so im convinced that its a wiring problem somewhere in the harness. I wont donate my Z but if I cant figure out the problem it might be up for sale.

 

whoa there turbo! <no pun intended>

If the fuel pump isn't getting power through the stock wiring, just bypass it & make your own larger gauge fuel pump wiring harness... and wa-la! back in biz-ness!

 

This seems to be a very common issue. I was at Bobs house the other day when he went to do the first firing of his newly rebuilt motor and all of a sudden there was no power to the fuel pump. It had worked a few days before that with no problems. He wound up having to remove the manifolds and the head though, and when it was done... No juice to the fuel pump. I couldn't figure out why, so I rigged a hot wire to the pump to get the car going. He has since just put in a switch to manually send power to it like everyone else. I wonder why this happens so much?

Rod.

 

Thats what I did. Mounted a heavy duty relay in the hatch and powered it off the ignition switch. Then ran some 8 gauge wire from the battery to the relay and on to the fuel pump and grounded the pump out with some 8 gauge. Worked beautifully.