FricFrac

The very best way is to verify. People guess or assume and that's when things blow up or fail intermitantly, etc. You can verify how much current by simply putting a ammeter (current or amperage - most DMM will work) in series and measure how much current it's is drawing then there is no guessing.

My main concern with your setup though is that the car is already super easy to steel and having a push button makes it even easier. What are you putting in place to disable the fuel pump/ignition/ecu, etc?

I like the switch.... did you check to see if it will fit where the cruise control switch is?

KHCreason

I know I want a hidden switch that controls the fuel pump, or simply a hidden battery cutoff. Like in the center console or something like that. I havent decided on where, or what it would turn on/off, but i do know i want a switch for that. I'm about to go check out that K9 thing you mentioned earlier, actually. Kept forgetting to do it.

this one?

Better yet!

MurphyEF

Word of advice, do not tell us where you out your switch! It's something that is best if only you know! Leaks of security information cause problems.

NismoPick

My security feature to protect my Z is that I keep it in the back of my garage, under a cover.

KHCreason

haha true, but i think i've got a good idea. and i can paint it there and it wont look out of place at all.

Just have to find out how to wire it.

Oh, and FricFrac, I agree about the ammeter. I should be getting one from my Dad, since i never know where he hides it, tomorrow. I'll see what I can do for testing the loads and seeing how much is going to which wire. not to mention that I think the wiring diagram I took a pic of is right on the money, from what little "exploration" I've done. And, I hope to have my switches ordered tomorrow, and I can always pick up some relays if I decide that they are needed, later. I cant wait! though it may be a little more difficult without my ignition hooked up, but I havent bought the box yet (To you, WIldmaN) so I think I'll plug it back up and hook everything up to see how much goes where and when.

KHCreason

And now, for more pictures, as promised!

These are the wheels that will be on the Z, as soon as I get lug nuts that fit the Zs threads instead of the Mustangs. The stock Z wheels will be put on my Grenada to wheel around with. And may eventually go to the scrapyard with it. I dunno yet. I dont really like them.

Here is my homemade Short-Throw Shifter. I cut down a mid-80's or early-90's Nissan PU shifter, and JB welded my original shifter ball. I think there may be some issues with how far forward/backward it can go, but I'm not for sure. I think that was more that my tranny was screwed up than the shifter not fitting. It makes the throws VERY short, and fits comfortably in the car. So i'm happy atm

Here is my headliner, currently coated with 3M rubberized udnercoating, so its black.. though I found a great way somewhere on how to recover it, so i think im gonna do that.

My red leather seats out of a 1991 BMW 325i convertible. They are in pretty bad shape, but still comfortable and still supportive. I cant WAIT to have them professionally redone! This is thepassengers.

bought this set of red floor mats form Black Dragon. They look sweet, inside my black interior.

This is the second color in the two-tone scheme. Inferno red, a Dodge/Chrysler color. Its AWESOME and possibly the best spray-paint job I've ever done... but still textured... so when the car gets repainted, so does the mirror! pro!

This is where I spilled battery acid on the fender.

This is the black interior. Cost me 37 bucks from LKQ here in Tulsa. If I could pull it, I got it, except for the dash, which I am regretting now. I went back for it but it was already gone

This is my passenger side floor. It needs ALL of its silver alid down, because I still ahvent bothered to fix its gaping hole that you can kinda see. Gonna hit it w/ bondo and sheetmetal.

And here's a head on-ish from my Z... its missing a sugar scoop cuz its in primer right now. Its gonna be red. ALso, that thing on the hood? It has something to do with blowing air onto the intake manifold, I think. Therefore, I am gonna hook it up to the air inlet on the hood, easily disconnectable though so I can still open the hood.

KHCreason

okay, looks like I'm double posting again.. jeez... Firstly, I have discovered I am rocking an N47. Is that good?

Using this...

I went form this...

to this...

to this in a few hours time.

Save some trim, the driver side is now put back together. Transmission, you better hurry up!

FricFrac

I know you've already got your carpet in but for future reference you can actually make your own single piece for each side. In behind the seats is a pain but doable. I use the old carpet as a template then it goes inside the foot well and I measure and poke a few reference holes in the back where the carpet folds together by the gas pedel, etc. Then you cut the triagle section out so that when you put it in the car it lays down and buts up to itself. Once you are happy with the fit you use contact cement on the back where the seams are and a strip of carpet about three inches wide with contact cement on the back of it the same length as your joint. Butt the joints together and lay the strip on the back of it and it will hold the joint together - now you've got your own molded carpet!

FricFrac

...oh yea and for the dash - no big deal on not grabing the black dash. Get a black dash cap from MSA. It's not unlikely that the dash you were going to pull was cracked or will crack in the future so you're saving yourself from doing the work twice. Pulling the dash is some work the first time but it's not as challenging as I thought it would be....

KHCreason

Oh, and I think ive got the wrong idea. The N47 was cast, ive got a picture around here soemwhere, but the term "N47 Block" gets zero hits...

I feel very noobish right now. Is N47 a block or a head, and if so, which would I have? Here are the pics, one of the block number and another of the N47.

The part to the left of the 6 digits says L28


Actually, I think I have it. N42 is a block, and the heads it came with are both N42 and N47, presumably depending on how late in the run of N42s it was made. And since my car, i believe, was made in August of 79, that would give it the N42 block with N47 heads... i think.

FricFrac

Well its a little strange but Nissan had both a N42 block AND a N42 head. You probably have the N42/N47 combo....

http://datsunzgarage.com/heads/index.htm

PurePontiacKid

N47 is not the block, the block casting number is on the left side of the block. N47 is the head.

Also, I'm using the same exact shifter in my car, but I took that rubber part off, makes it look alot better, and less... ghetto-rigged...

KHCreason

what rubber part? The gray part between the black metal and the shifter ball? That's JB Weld... And the part i cut off is laying next to it, half primer and half not cuz of my over spray.

So, what is the common consensus concerning the N47 head, and the N42 block? My goal, as some of you know by now, is a Stroker motor similar to the build hinted at by this guy here, and the mreo i read the more info i find, and the more I cant freakin wait!

The original inspiration
Inline Stroker

Oh, and I intend on picking up an F54 block or whole engine, so ill get one of the .better heads right then, but if i can buy them separately that's cool too.

MurphyEF

Haha. I used Walmart carpet for my Z as well. I don't have anything under it, though. Now my floor mats slide around a bit while getting in or out. But at least it looks good!

KHCreason

Heck yeah it does! Probably goin down there tomorrow to do some piddlin again too, but might not... I need to do some job hunting...

Either way, the driver side is damn near complete, and like I said... as soon as i get my freakin transmission, its over!

in a good way.

PurePontiacKid

The thick black metal part, if you put that in a vice, then twice the lower portion, it eventually comes out, then all you have to do is sandt he rest of the rubber off of the lower portion.

N42 blocks are better for strokers, N42 heads are also the best for all out NA horsepower, but only if you know someone who could weld the chambers up similar to how P90's look, but P90's and P79's will work just as fine.

FricFrac

Actually its best to read up on the heads as there is a lot of information (and mis-information.....) about them. Although the P79s have the inserts to help with emissions some consider too restrictive they are a better flowing head and there is less issue with knock because of the quench area, etc. Also if you look down the intake you can see its more of a straight shot into the combustion chamber than the N42. The misconception that the N42 is better is that you bolt it onto an F54 block with flat top pistons and you are in the 10:1 ish compresion range but the issue now is that the N42 was designed for dished pistions relying on them for the quench. Welding up the chamber is to give it that peanut shaped gallery but it involves a lot of extra work and you still have a more angular shot into the combustion chamber.

The best bang for your buck is going to be a L28ET or do a V8 swap.... Personally I'll be going down the turbo route for a few reasons. I'm an L28 fan so that cinches it right there. 300RWHP is doable with a stock bottom end if you spend some money on proper intercooling, injectors, etc.... If you want the stock HP of the turbo engine your investment isn't that big (depending but on average $500-1000 for a complete swap) and you basically just need the L28ET, ECU, wiring harness, a few bits if you want the stock boost gauges, I think the stock AFM is the same but I'm not 100% sure on that one.

Read, read, read, search, read, search, read, scratch you head, read, read..... you get the point

PurePontiacKid

The N42 head is the head that all Japanese guys making 300+whp use. I've been reading up on NA L builds for a LONG time, which is probably the reason my spare motor isn't built yet.

http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/cylinderheads.htm

that guy says the P90's have the sharper turn, not the N42's...

KHCreason

Everything I have been reading says the F54 block is the better for a Stroker due to its inter-webbing, making for more support when the 3mm overbore is done. I believe this has to do with the block twisting out of round when the head is torqued.. but of course, this will still be street driven, so I'm not going hardcore ultimate racer on it. I mainly want the all-over torque that only a Stroker can offer, and honestly, I don't drive turbo-style. I am very rarely up in the high RPM range, so it would be rare that I took full advantage of a turbo swap. Besides, everybody does that :P

Also, i like the inline 6 alot, and i don't want to drop in a V8. Already did that to my Stang :P
I have also read this other places. As for the angle, I remember seeing a picture showing the P90 compared to the N42, and the P90 has a straight shot, though a steeper angle, while the N42 has less of an angle but more of a bend.

PurePontiacKid

lol you think an NA motor is going to give you torque? Any amount of power built out an L-series NA, be it stroker or not (unless you're going to run low compression and some sort of RV style cam?) is not going to give you the same kind of torque.

if you keep the stock turbo on a turbo swap, there is VERY little lag, and ALOT of torque.

Anyways, the N42 block has moar metal around the bores than the F54's do, which is why I'm using an N42 block for my 3.0 build

btw, have a little read on post #6
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/..._1#entry663392

FricFrac

You were too busy counting to Potato again... re-read the link you sent us...

"Now we get to the P-79 and P-90 heads. The combustion chambers of these heads are IDEAL, almost perfect once the valves are unshrouded. The only down side I see to the P-series heads, (and this down side is for the extremely radical ragged edge engines, not so much for the milder even hot race engines), is since the chambers are taller, (valves are now shorter as a result), the floors of both the intake and exhaust ports now have an even sharper short side radius and as stated previously, this is a detriment to flow as velocity increases. The transition from the horizontal plane to the vertical plane on the intake and vice versa for the exhaust, is not as smooth as the N-series and E-series heads. Now don’t take this as I am bad mouthing the P-series heads cause I’m not. I really like these heads for hot street and mild to moderate race applications. They are an inexpensive way to get the ideal squish using an OE flat top piston with a compression ratio compatible with pump gas. I have built several and will continue to build the P-90 and P-79 heads for street and mild race Z’s. What I’m saying in regards to the P-series from the stand point of building THE mega extreme N/A performance power house that is at the ragged edge of making useable power over a very narrow yet very high RPM range such as a best of the best N/A drag racing engine, these items should not be overlooked."

That's a little clip from Paul R - a very well respected expert on L series stuf who frequents HybridZ. Note that he says the N42 is for "building THE mega extreme N/A performance power house that is at the ragged edge of making useable power over a very narrow yet very high RPM range" - eg not a street build or even hot race engine but an extreme build. For almost everything else the P series would be more desireable for a mild to hot build - save the N42 for the extreme build.....

FricFrac

Read up on turbos. It sounds like all you know about them are the common misconceptions. You can have boost come on any time and with modern technology the power band is much larger than it ever was before. Oh and a turbo car is a torque multiplier....

KHCreason

To Pontiac, thanks for giving that link, but hopefully I can find more sources with that same info. Like I've said, everywhere, except there, has said go F54 for a Stroker buildup.

Whats more, have you seen the torque curve for a N/A Stroker engine? Compared to a regular NA, or even a Turbo? Here it is. (edit: I cant find the picture right now... Ill post it up when i find it. Its freakin awesome.)

Read this. too, concerning torque.

To FricFrac, yes, I am and always have been biased against turbo setups. And I will do some reading up on them after my job interview, but what I think I know so far:

Turbos are only good for high speed and high RPM because of the spooling of the boost that must be accomplished, unless there are two turbos, one for little boost that spools quickly and the other higher to kick in late. But of course, that is even less practical price-wise than an L28 Stroker.

Because I prefer to drive int he lower RPM ranges, where Torque seems to like to be, I would not like to build a turbo. If anything FI, I would be more than happy to supercharge the Stroker... torque ON TOP of torque! And yes, i do understand a bit more of superchargers than of turbos, and i DEFINITELY prefer them over it.
What do i think i know so far? This:
A supercharger is like an extension of the engine; its displacement boost is ALWAYS there. I have always associated them with monstrous V8 powerhouses, while the turbo goes with the little dinky import engines. a super charger is belt driven rather than exhaust driven, which means no spool. This is a big seller for me, and so is my prejudice i suppose :P

However, i am still learning about this, and maybe ill turbo the Stroker, or supercharge it, or leave it NA. All i do know is that I am going to stroke my L28 and make sure its EFI... screw carbs! lol

Either way, I prefer seat of my pants feelings than just knowing my car CAN go 140mph, but not feelings like it does unless I'm on the open highway. With the Stroker, and with torque, it makes it much more down to daily driving that i will get that kick all the freakin' time.

Just found a great quote from a Zcar.com archive.

PurePontiacKid

I know the P90/P79 is "better" than the N42 for an entry level build, which is why I'm using a P79 for mine, but not an all-out powerhouse NA motor. (which is what I said to begin with.)

A small ball bearing turbo will give nearly instant boost. A friend of mine with an SRT-4 creates boost just by bumping the throttle a little bit when he backs up. What you're thinking about high-rpm power is those 1000whp 2JZ's with the T51 or larger turbos who only make power past 5k rpm or so. This is NOT the case with a small turbo equipped motor making far less horsepower (even 300whp you can still have little to no lag on an L series, especially if you get a high quality turbo).

KHCreason

Hmm. In that case, what sort of numbers are we lookin' at, if that little ball bearing turbo were piped into a Stroked L28? I'll find that darn dyno image of the torque and HP curves, and you can edit it to show where that turbo would add and detract... or just explain it if you know that enough off the top of your head lol

And, in all seriousness, are there ANY freakin' resources on supercharging one of these motors? I'm not necessarily biased against turbocharging my Datsun, since it IS a dinky little import, the turbo fits (YES I know that's car-ist, or nationalistic or something) but i don't want to turbo-swap an L28ET into it. Then its just like any other 280zx... why not a turbo Stroker, or a supercharged Stroker, so that not only am i packing;' loads of power that an ordinary L28 wouldn't, its not the same as everyone else's?

Lastly for now, I found this kickass link for Datsun engine building, and after i get my numbers plugged into it again, after i refind it, ill post it up, to get some ideas and thoughts on what they mean compared to something else.