280ZX (S130) Forums Dedicated to 79-83 ZCars

please help!

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Old 01-11-2007 | 09:49 PM
  #1  
mamoxxx's Avatar
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please help!

hi everyone. im a newbie. i have an '82 280zx and im having a small problem(atleast i think it's a small problem). everytime i make a stop over after driving my z for a short period of time, i notice when i restart my car, the rpm idles low/funny at about less than 500rpm. then my engine dies after a couple of seconds. when i start it back up the second time, i just give it a drive just to get to 3000rpm on the first gear. during this time, there is hesitation on the engine. all of a sudden the problem goes away and im able to drive the car again without any problem until i make another stop and restart the car again. i'ved always thought that there is a clog along the fuel line or the fuel pump is going bad. but if the fuel pump is going bad, then i wouldn't be able to start my car anymore, right?

this probelm has been going on for some time now. i had it diagnosed at a local shop a couple of times, this shop specializes on z cars, and they couldn't find the problem. they said that the fuel pressures are within limits and such. myself and the people in the shop (which are very good people)couldn't duplicate the problem everytime i bring the car to them.

please help me with this problem. i really love my z but i just dont know what to do with it everytime this problem appears. thanks.

--carlo

Last edited by mamoxxx; 01-11-2007 at 09:52 PM.
Old 01-11-2007 | 10:14 PM
  #2  
NismoPick's Avatar
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From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
Welcome to ZDriver!

Have you ever done a tuneup on the car? Basic stuff like plugs, wires, cap, fresh oil / coolant, etc can do wonders for a struggling engine.

First: do a visual... look for any vacuum leaks (don't just "look" but really check it out... follow all the vac lines).

Second: check timing.

Third: check your sparkplug tips. This will tell you what's going on in the combustion chamber.

Fourth: make sure all your sensor wires are firmly connected. Check for corrosion & clean if necessary. Use some dielectric grease on the connections.

Fifth: If you feel like doing some deeper work, you can adjust the AFM ( https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/js-how-rebuild-your-afm-15277/ )

We'll go to that point. Yay!
Old 01-11-2007 | 11:19 PM
  #3  
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From: Concord, NC
I would check all the things NismoPick says but also I would replace that fuel filter over by the passenger shock tower under the hood. Sounds to me like it could be clogged under lower pressure and under more throttle it is able to pass the blockage...just a guess though, I could be way off. What kind of history can you tell us about the car....did it sit for a long time, was it ever in a flood, Turbo, non turbo...you know, some other background. Also, Welcome to ZDriver. OOOHHHH oh yeah, if you ever washed the engine check the electrical connections as they will hold water...especially the one on the side of the throttle body.

Last edited by thxone; 01-11-2007 at 11:21 PM.
Old 01-11-2007 | 11:27 PM
  #4  
Zachrates's Avatar
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From: Anaheim, California
I had the *exact* problem.
Nismo's right.

Afm probably needs to be adjusted.

However... all the fixes shady and I did to my car still didn't cure the problem. This seems to be a common problem with those era Z's from all the people I've talked to. Make sure your plugs are NOT platinum. Use NGK's regular ones. The bigger surface lets your z make a better spark, and better conductibility.

Another thing to help it out if that doesn't work, raise your idle. I'm not a mechanic, and I'm sure the other guys might swat me down lol but this is the only way I got my car to work better. The spark plugs make it respond quicker, and just takes a tiny bit of gas and bam it's fine. Adjust the idle to like 800-900.. if it's colder where you are 900-1k lol.
Old 01-12-2007 | 12:36 AM
  #5  
skittle's Avatar
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From: LOST VEGAS
yeah check the tps and the dizzy for condinsation (word of the day). Thats all I have to say.
Old 01-12-2007 | 09:37 AM
  #6  
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From: Mesa, AZ.
What kinda of plugs/wires are you using???
Old 01-12-2007 | 03:48 PM
  #7  
skittle's Avatar
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From: LOST VEGAS
Ohhh And Make Sure You Check The Kneuter Valve
Old 01-12-2007 | 04:07 PM
  #8  
NismoPick's Avatar
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From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
Originally Posted by skittle
Ohhh And Make Sure You Check The Kneuter Valve

Crucial!



Oh snap! I beat Apollo to it!
Old 01-12-2007 | 04:27 PM
  #9  
skittle's Avatar
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From: LOST VEGAS
yeah he has been slacking lately... So when is wreckedj going to be back on huh??? I always loved the jibes he has with snowy...

Last edited by skittle; 01-13-2007 at 10:41 AM.
Old 01-12-2007 | 10:47 PM
  #10  
SHADY280's Avatar
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From: Mission, British Columbia
nobody has mentioned the cold start valve sticking on! check your valve. unplug it for a day of normal driving, also could be the air bypass valve.
Old 01-13-2007 | 09:29 AM
  #11  
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From: Escondido (San Diego) California
My car has had that problem off and on since I have owned it. I've pretty much replaced every part of the car except the KEYS and it still comes and goes. It feels like vapor lock, but I'm not really sure how or why it happens. It only happens after the car warms up, you shut it off, and try and restart it soon thereafter. A few good raps on the throttle usually clears it up for me though. Bob79280ZX's car does it too... Only more so than mine and he too has replaced almost everything that should be related. I'm stumped.

If anyone figures it out though, let me know. Here's a list of things that DIDN'T fix it.

Spark plugs
Wires
Cap
Rotor
Distributor
Coil
Fuel Pump
Fuel Injectors
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Fuel Filter
Catalytic Converter
CHTS
Water temp Sensor
AFM
Air Regulator
Thermotime Switch
Cold Start Valve
ALL Electrical connectors for above parts and others replaced
EGR valve
BPT valve
TVV Valve
All Vacuum lines replaced
New Charcoal cannister
PCV Valve


Plus,

3 paint jobs
4 sets of wheels and tires
shocks
struts
springs
bushings
brake system overhaul with master cyl, lines, slotted rotors and new calipers,
Interior revamp
2 10" subs
a "Nismo" License plate frame
tranmission replacement
new clutch
complete exhaust system
.
.
.
.
And a bunch of other crap I can't remember right now.



Rod.
Old 01-13-2007 | 09:32 AM
  #12  
mamoxxx's Avatar
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hi all. sorry took me long enough to sign back on. this is the history of the car. family friend of ours/original owner needed dialysis 2-3 times per week. he uses the car to go to the hospital which is only about 5miles away from where he lives. the car was garaged and atleast i think it was never been flooded on.

i did regular tune-up during 80k miles. changed plugs, wires, cap, coolant and oil change every 3k miles. plugs that i have right now are NKG regular. i used to run platinum plugs and my car was running hot so i changed to regular NGK.

the shop that i went to increased my rpm to about 1000rpm.

i havent really looked into the afm that you guys were talking about. maybe it's because im not sure what that is. but ill look at the manual and see.

thanks for all the replies. for now, i have to go. im at work right now. thanks for the warm welcome.

--carlo
Old 01-13-2007 | 10:44 AM
  #13  
skittle's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,418
From: LOST VEGAS
big black and silver box attached to your throttle body and air filter (connected by hoses)
Old 01-13-2007 | 10:51 AM
  #14  
skittle's Avatar
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From: LOST VEGAS
down by the coil

lower left hand side of the pic

Old 01-13-2007 | 02:56 PM
  #15  
SHADY280's Avatar
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From: Mission, British Columbia
dude how do your brakes work?
Old 01-13-2007 | 03:42 PM
  #16  
snwbrderphat540's Avatar
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From: lemont, Illinois
HAHAHa.... not very welll im guessing... lol. your uhh... missing something there bud... lol




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