what up my fello zcar friends, i was wondering what all i can elimanate, with the car still able to run correctly. So far i've taken out the injector fan( since all these hicks think im running twin turbo), headlight washers and parts of my air conditioner, since my auto climate control sucks im just going to live with out any thing. I was wondering how to take out the heater/ air conditioner, and cruise control, hopefully without taking out my dash. And if anyone can think of any thing else help me out.my car is a 83' turbo, and how do i make my electric mirriors work again.

 

cruise control has a servo (or whatever it is) on the right side of the engine compartment that can come out. It's relays and controls are under the passenger seat. That all should net you about -5lbs. The heater core box I've never tried pulling with the dash still in so I dont know on that one. The blower motor assembly can come out with the dash still in and thats a few lbs. Power Antenna will save you a lb or 2. None of that, including the removal of the a/c and power steering made much a noticeable difference in my cars acceleration. But what did was the removal of the stock bumper reinforcements and their struts. Of course I can't condone that cause it just wouldn't be safe (or legal) for street use

 

can i take out my power steering pump and lines without a problem or would i need a new rack n pinion

 

You would need a new rack and pinion steering box from a '79 280ZX with no power steering. Not many of these were sold in the US so they're a bit rare.

 

right right i'll look around what about my mirrors, there power, defroster and blue tint i would like to keep them but since i can't see they might have to go. oh and i think im going to put my radio were my auto climate controls r any one see, probs with this. Then i can put a tv or more gauges. And y does my boost gauge always stay negative, and it goes even when in the top of my rpm range.

 

the a/c and heater stuff is easy to remove with the dash OUT. if ya dont, it wont come out, i tried.

 

oh that sucks well if i get anchious im gonna try tomorrow, with the heater water inlet/ outlet thing could i just put it straight into the block or what. and what is that vaccum control thing connected to the afm

 

i have put a radio in the a/c, heat control spot, fits real nice. you will love the location of it when done.

 

The dash is really easy to take out, You have to take out the under dash panels on both sides and the center, lower the steering wheel, there are 3 or 4 bolts on the top and the same amount on the bottom, you can leave the wiring harness in tact as the three of them unplug from the same location, disconnect spedometer cable and you should be done. If you're looking to cut wait then why would you want to put a tv in there?

 

i was just yoken to see what remarks i would get. so just take off the dash and un bolt, take out all the 80's wieght, ac and heater, then reassemble. I have to take off the speedometer 2, mines still digital any worse or what. Please say no. What about the center gauges they need to be removed to. And can anyone picture there stereo hookups,were they plug into the back, mine were messed up i tryed to fix them and now it doesn't work at all.sucks.

 

if you wanna swap out your digi guage cluster you'll have to swap out the harness also. Thats a snap with the dash out though.

 

The three pods come out intact still mounted to the dash.

 

well i wish i had one(non digital dash) but i don't im hoping later someone can make a carbon fiber one with holes for light weight gauges(wink wink nudge nudge) but thats a ways away. So whats with my boost gauge reading negative. And can i just reroute the heater hoses(come from the block) back into the other one? Last question what is that big canister that connects to the engine bay gas pedal (can't remember whats its called) line to the throttle body.

 

Is it on here?

 

The boost gauge will not read positive pressure until the turbo starts producing boost. At part throttle and idle the engine is in a vacuum so it will read negative. If it's reading negative while the turbo is boosting then you have a problem.

Yes you can reroute the heater hoses to bypass the heater core and run them straight into the block.

That big canister is what controls the throttle while the cruis control is on.

 

well all done here finally that took for ever, 6 and a half hours. hou to get it all out, but figuring out how to reroute the hoses and not getting fluid inside the car, is what took for days. Yeah j my boost gauge always reads negative then right before i shift around 42oo it goes to zero, so i have no clue. every thing looked good behind the dash i was missing a bulb but it was in the clock, i think.The only thing i couldn't get working was my turn signals, they worked before but not now, but thats tomorrow i guess.s130, no its not on there, but j says is cruise control so that'll go to. Whats all that stuff around the engine light, you dont have it , and under the cruise control booster thing do i need any of that?

 

Below the cruise control booster is a vacuum canister. It stores vacuum for the climate control system (so it can still operate when there is no vacuum in the engine).

All that stuff you have near your engine room lamp is specific to the turbo motor. Also has to do with vacuum. I cant remember specifically what it was for but I do know that I removed it from my turbo with zero side effects. I knew what it was for at the time but I cant recall right now.

 

I'm thinkin' you've got a boost leak or a dead turbo.

How does it accelerate? Can you feel the boost come on?

 

oh yes and it does accelerate, fast too. thats the only reason i haven't swaped it with the vg i have in my back yard. well if i can remove all the cruise booster and other things it should give me a little less front end weight. today i must off taken off a good 100 pounds. i still have to take off the air conditioner compressor, more funday work. yeah the boost kicks in around 3 grand maybe more, but shes a running machine. does any one no why my turn signals don't work any more, i need to go to town tomorrow to get my tattoo finished, and cops suck out here. i think its cause they don't have z's thats y they are such asses. and how do i get rid of that talking lady, she creeps me out a little.

 

Most likely you pulled a wire loose when you were under the dash and it's not getting any juice to the flasher from the turn signal switch.

I would get under there with a flashlight and make sure everything is connected tightly.

 

well ever since i bought the car, its been reading negative, if your talking about the turn signals your probably right, i have some extra plug ins that i cant find were they went, probably ac things though, the only other thing that isn't working is the check button, but everything( headlights, taillight and horn, speedometer, etc) is working so i don't no. Explain to me how to get rid of that annoying lady.

 

pull her plug. On the 2+2 it's located behind the interior quarter trim panel. Not sure on a 2seater though, but I would assume its in the same location.

 

i figured out what it was, i messed with the 4-way flasher thing, connected to the steering column, it seems to have three ways, one to make the flashers work, one for the turn singals, and one for nothing? or maybe i just have a short, but i don't know it's fixed so im not questioning it. So i can take off the parts around the engine light, with no problems, some of the hoses run to the intake manifold, just plug them? how many bolts are there holding the a/c compressor in thats the last thing to remove and the heaviest. Thanks for everyone's help, i'll keep you all posted.Removal of the talking lady. anyone?

 

yes on the removal of those parts. Just plug up the fittings on the manifold.

The AC comressor has 4 bolts holding it to the bracket. And I believe another 4 holding the bracket to the block.

 

do i need to take off the compressor, then bracket or can i just unbolt the bracket/compressor in one unit.