for the A/C compressor you have to remove the four bolts holding the compressor on, then remove the bolts that hold the braket on, then you can go on to remove the condensor with is a total pain..

 

ok all done i took off all the cruise booster, light and excess around it, for now i just ran the vaccuum into the other one, until tomorrow when the parts store opens. What should i do with all the plugins that came off all that crap as well as all the ones from the a/c, and things i removed. For now i put electrical tape over them, but wanted to ask the man, what should i do.

 

I redid all my wiring and removed all the misc. plugs and connectors I had left over when I removed everything that wasn't necessary. I took out the cruisecontrol, rear wiper, rear antenna, warning display system, the AC, and all the factory sound system and every single wire associated with any of those things. I shaved more weight in wiring then I did removing everything but the A/C

But if you dont want to go such lengths (and trust me, you DONT ), then just tape em up with some electical tape and you'll be fine.

 

ok then i'll call it done. can someone send me a picture of the back or there head unit, mine wasn't wired correctly at all, after i tried to fix the problem, now it doesn't work. man now i have to listen to all motor, good thing is i never need to look at the tach to shift. Just shift by sound.

 

Removing the power steering from second generation mazda rx7's is a very popular modification to do. The factory power steering overboosts... Lots of us would just disconnect the pump and its three lines from our power rack and use that. Fill the rack through all holes with power steering fluid, then turn your wheel bump to bump to slosh out the excess fluid. Find a short bolt the right size for the hole, and plug them all up.

The power steering fluid would prevent the mechanics from binding up, and the slosh kept it from being over pressurized.

Any reason similar wouldn't be practical on a 280ZX? I'm not familiar with the power steering on the 280ZX, mine came with a manual rack.

 

On our cars, I would fill all the lines and find a way to connect them together so the fluid can circulate in the rack. I think if you try and plug them while full of fluid the return would want to burst when you whip the wheel lock to lock. Best bet would still be a manual rack. Dont forget that the crossmembers and steering shaft extensions are different too. I went through that when converting from manual to power steering. Its a good excuse to change the oil pan gasket anyway. The oil pan is a two day job to do it right though, use lots of ultra gray, and just get all the bolts finger tight, let it sit overnight and torque them the next day.

 

ok i'll see whats up, i still haven't found any other z's then mine up here but still looking. Theres one but its in a backyard with a mean dog so i haven't really got back there to check it out. It reserved for some one if its clean. So even the steering and crossmembers are different, that sucks. Does any one have the pulley for it mines serverly bent, and i'm worried that its going break something.

 

Wouldn't my suggestion of turning the wheel "lock to lock" with the fluid in, but the system still unplugged to let the excess out, fix that issue?

I can't test it since my slicktop has a manual rack

 

I don't no yet. Im going to try this weekend cause i have to replace my water pump and thermostat, as well as take off my a/c compressor and install analog gauges. Wish me luck.

 

What up i'm back. I just got a scale, so here's what i lost.
The engine light and bracket, with turbo vacuum boosters? @ 5 pds.
The headlight bottle and pump.@ 3 pds.
The heater box and core.@ 8 pds.
The hood open bar and excess wiring under and around the dash.@ 4pds.
The a/c electric fan.@ 5pds.
The injector fan (electric turbo).@ 6 pds.
The in dash a.c.c.@3 pds.
The cruise control booster@ 5 pds.
The heater fan with box.@ 9 pds.
The a/c box and heater cont. @ 9 pds.
A/c compressor and bracket.@ 27 pds.
The excess brackets, dash extras and mini motors. @ 13pds.
The heater ducting @ 1 pd
The brake booster heat shield.@ 1 pd.
Bracket for washer pump.@ 2 pds.
Coolant overflow bottle.@ 1 pd
Spare tire.@ 35 pds.
I lost a total of 137pds. i think. Plus i had already chucked the a/c condensor and other little things. Too bad i put those subs in. huh.

 

I think you're a lil over on most of those estimates.... okay A LOT over. Did you use a scale, or just guess?

The engine light and bracket, with turbo vacuum boosters? @ 5 pds.
-maybe 3lbs

The headlight bottle and pump.@ 3 pds.
-maybe 1lb

The injector fan (electric turbo).@ 6 pds.
-maybe 3lbs

The in dash a.c.c.@3 pds.
-a.c.c ???

The cruise control booster@ 5 pds.
-maybe 3lbs

The heater ducting @ 1 pd
-those plasic pieces? I guess 1lb

Bracket for washer pump.@ 2 pds.
-you serious?

Coolant overflow bottle.@ 1 pd
-if it were full of coolant...


Maybe I'm just crazy...

 

Yeah, I tend to agree there. I've removed many of those same items, and they don't weigh that much.

 

Na dude that **** was heavy. And yes i just wieghed it by lifting it until i was tired...jk. No i used a scale. The brackets were thick *** steel, so don't bull shnit. That electric turbo with all the ducting was 4 1/2 so i just rounded up. Mann i'm going to have to rewiegh and take pics. this time. huh. Screw it believe it or not...jk

 

Buahhah! We just playin! Tho I'm gunna have to go weigh some parts... just for my own curiousity sake. I don't see a plasic coolant bottle weighing a pound

 

Best way to reduce a bunch of weight:

Remove the DRIVER!!!!


Rod.

 

Ok some of them damn things are a little exadurated, but they were around that weight. Well with the bathroom scale. Oh and Rod i'm not fat i have less than 5% body fat. Well maybe more. I lost wieght after working out the other day. I'm at 158, know.