n00blar

For those with this camshaft from MSA, did you guys have to make any adjustments to the AFM or the ECU or any other adjustments anywhere else?

I have that cam and I'm wondering if I need to adjust something.
My engine fires up (finally!), but I have to up the RPMs a bit (step on gas that is) to keep it from stalling. It could well be a vacuum issue, but I want to make sure that this new cam doesn't need any other component to be adjusted.

SHADY280

anytime you change something from stock, your car must be tuned to make the part work correctly. now just changing the cam could do it, but youve prolly knocked something else as well. go over your timing and tps. and make sure the car can run at idle, then you can get the drivable tune part figured out.

thxone

Yeah when they wrote me they said that the cams would raise the powerband up the RPM range and that the Idle would also get rougher the higher the powerband moves...the two go hand and hand...if you go high enough up the powerband with a high enough lift cam, your vacuum will suffer also. You may just need to raise your idle up a bit like near or around 850-1,000 rpm in neutral. It may seem weird but like they said your moving the operating range of the engine higher up the rpm range and your idle is part of that...so just raise it up till she smoothes out or stays running...it IS going to be rougher than the stock cams idle.

EDIT: I had a 1972 Formula Firebird with a built 455cu engine and it ran low to mid 10 second quarter miles at the track. It had a monster cam and it's idle was near 1,200rpm in park and like 950rpm in neutral, because of the cam thats where it needed to be.

n00blar

Ohh, thanks for explanation!

SHADY280

i run a big cam in my car, (1/2" lift 260 dur.) it still has pretty good vacuum, the idle is still around 700 in neutral, no need to bump it fer me. and a lightened flywheel too.