Start-up and hesistation problems
12-03-2008, 04:55 PM
#27
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 89
Originally Posted by NismoPick
#1... Nice Canon EOS Rebel. 
#2... The prob is not likely the CHTS. When that sensor goes bad, you know it (floods / won't start).
#3... Neither the thermotime nor coolant temp sensor are connected to the ecu, so those aren't the cause. The thermotime sensor just activates the fuel rail cooler, the coolant temp sensor signals the dash temp gauge.
#4... Try cleaning the plugs & checking the gap.
#5... Pull the AFM cover off & push the spring while you rev (that may make the engine run better... if so you need to adjust it). Other than that, get to work on the CSV.
#2... The prob is not likely the CHTS. When that sensor goes bad, you know it (floods / won't start).
#3... Neither the thermotime nor coolant temp sensor are connected to the ecu, so those aren't the cause. The thermotime sensor just activates the fuel rail cooler, the coolant temp sensor signals the dash temp gauge.
#4... Try cleaning the plugs & checking the gap.
#5... Pull the AFM cover off & push the spring while you rev (that may make the engine run better... if so you need to adjust it). Other than that, get to work on the CSV.
So the sensor in the picture I posted is for the injector fan. Well thats definitely out then... I dont even have the fan anymore.
Ill clean the plugs then im done for the night, AFM and CSV will do this weekend. Ill keep everyone updated (I hate reading through threads that have my exact symptoms, but a resolution never gets posted).
Thanks everyone for all the help!!
P.S. Its an XSi and I just got a Canon speedlight so I have been playing with it every chance I get!
12-03-2008, 05:14 PM
#30
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: ABQ
Posts: 11
does this model have a bcdd? Boost control Decel device. I am assuming it is the 83 280zx n/a (meaning Naturally Asperated?)
the bcdd should be an object hanging off the bottom of the throttle body/ butterfly valve. there should be vacuum lines to it, one of which should t into the vacuum advance line going to the distributor.
If the bcdd has been adjusted incorrectly it can give similar problems.
when the engine is first started cold, mash the throttle down full open and release quickly two times, does it backfire into the a/f meter as it decelerates?
the bcdd should be an object hanging off the bottom of the throttle body/ butterfly valve. there should be vacuum lines to it, one of which should t into the vacuum advance line going to the distributor.
If the bcdd has been adjusted incorrectly it can give similar problems.
when the engine is first started cold, mash the throttle down full open and release quickly two times, does it backfire into the a/f meter as it decelerates?
12-05-2008, 02:08 PM
#31
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 89
So I just pulled the AFM and adjusted it. It was very easy to do and it feels like it restored some power to the car. I will have to take it out on a good drive on the highway to be sure.
I used the instructions that were linked on the top of the site but the pictures that were posted were terrible quality and it was hard to really see what was going on. I took some pictures of the inside of the AFM for other people to more clearly see what is going on inside.
You can clearly see the grooves that have been worn in here.
I used the instructions that were linked on the top of the site but the pictures that were posted were terrible quality and it was hard to really see what was going on. I took some pictures of the inside of the AFM for other people to more clearly see what is going on inside.
You can clearly see the grooves that have been worn in here.
12-05-2008, 02:34 PM
#34
You can adjust the spring tension as well. With the cover off and the motor running, you can push or pull the spring either way... whichever way it runs better, that's the way you want to adjust it. Make sure you mark w/ a black marker the location of the cog, hold cog w/ finger, loosen the retaining screw, and adjust. Go only 2 or 3 teeth at a time. It's also good to do this w/ an A/F ratio gauge. DO NOT LET THE COG LOOSE W/ THE SCREW OUT!!!
12-08-2008, 02:08 PM
#35
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 89
So adjusting the carbon track on the AFM seems to have cured my hesitation problems and freed up some lost power. I have not felt a hesitation at all since the adjustment and the car pulls much stronger than it did before.
I was going to adjust the spring tension as NismoPick had suggested, but this seems to have fixed the problem so I am not going to bother. However, I still have to wait for my next tank of gas to see if my fuel mileage has increased. Although it will be hard to tell because I am having too much fun with having all this power restored
The the cold start issue is still there and unfortunately i did not get a chance to test out the CSV. I did notice that this morning it was in the low 20's and when I started it up it only ran on a few cylinders until i gave it some gas and it caught. Could this possibly be more evidence of a bad CSV?
I was going to adjust the spring tension as NismoPick had suggested, but this seems to have fixed the problem so I am not going to bother. However, I still have to wait for my next tank of gas to see if my fuel mileage has increased. Although it will be hard to tell because I am having too much fun with having all this power restored
The the cold start issue is still there and unfortunately i did not get a chance to test out the CSV. I did notice that this morning it was in the low 20's and when I started it up it only ran on a few cylinders until i gave it some gas and it caught. Could this possibly be more evidence of a bad CSV?
12-08-2008, 03:23 PM
#36
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Oakland Cali-****en-fornia
Posts: 2,160
Originally Posted by JhnRX7
The the cold start issue is still there and unfortunately i did not get a chance to test out the CSV. I did notice that this morning it was in the low 20's and when I started it up it only ran on a few cylinders until i gave it some gas and it caught. Could this possibly be more evidence of a bad CSV?
Durring the whole issue though i found that by pumping the gas pedle it seemed to coax the RPMs past the problem and warm it more quickly
02-08-2009, 04:59 AM
#39
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 89
UPDATE: So adjusting the AFM carbon track seemed to cure my hesitations for a while, however they came back. The hesitations were becoming exponentially worse to the point where the car would not run anymore. At idle the engine would intermittently shudder and stall.
I tracked it down to the distributor. The bushing in the distributor was badly worn out causing the shaft to have so much play that the stator and reluctor would make contact. Also there was so much resistance that the shaft was very difficult to spin.
After further inspection I noticed that the vacuum advance was completely blown out causing a huge vacuum leak. This could have also contributed to some of my hesitations and definitely poor gas mileage.
I got a new distributor in and all is good now
Stator & Reluctor
I tracked it down to the distributor. The bushing in the distributor was badly worn out causing the shaft to have so much play that the stator and reluctor would make contact. Also there was so much resistance that the shaft was very difficult to spin.
After further inspection I noticed that the vacuum advance was completely blown out causing a huge vacuum leak. This could have also contributed to some of my hesitations and definitely poor gas mileage.
I got a new distributor in and all is good now
Stator & Reluctor
Last edited by JhnRX7; 02-08-2009 at 05:07 AM.
02-27-2009, 08:47 PM
#41
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/js-how-rebuild-your-afm-15277/
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