Hello, My name is Tex

Nice to meet you all.

I've tried some searching, and maybe im just using the wrong keywords, but what may be a better foundation for the 280zx. its a 1980. 2 seater. stock except for new poly bushings.

I mean, which other models have parts that are close to a identical fit, or dont require such heavy modifications?

Im looking to hopefully find more options for my -==-
Suspension; struts, springs and coilovers. (like maybe s13, s14, s15 conversions?)

Brakes; bigger or better rotors, better calipers. (like z31 or z32 rotors and brake conversions? ive read somewhere but i cant find the thread i saw that mentioned this)

I dont know much of what im about to ask about, so forgive me and correct me where needed, but Im also hoping to fix a cold start problem and upgrade the problem area at the same time if possible.
A friend said it could be the fuel injectors or fuel pump.
Could I take an r34 fuel pump and slap it on?

I dont mean to take up anyone's time or forum space, but if someone could help me with finding some answers id really appreciate it, thank you.

 

here is the first things you should do to make the car reliable and driveable. everyone always wants to pump out 300 hp before they take care of the basics.

Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.

Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.

Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.

brake no easy upgrades. engine drop in an l28et. Not a lot else unless you got a bucket full of money and lots of time. you have done the bushings so do the rest. after all that see how you like the ride before going crazy on springs and coilovers. plenty money get bilstein shocks. not so much try tokico. do a tuneup, new dizzy cap and rotor. put in magnacore plug wires. Make sure you don't have any vac leaks. you could try the z31 ecu/maf changeout or go megasquirt if you feel you have the electrical/mechanical skills to carry them out.

 

would that be 2 outer tie rod ends? how many ball joints?
what are my best options for springs if i get the front illumina and rear hp struts?
is it just ST and tokico springs?

 

Welcome to ZDriver!

Yup. One left, one right.

Two. One left, one right.

Lots of options. We've discussed strut & spring options many many times.

If you haven't done so yet, download the FSM for free at XenonS130 - S130 Reference

 

Welcome to the forum!

There are lots of parts from other Nissans that have been MADE to work but not a lot of stuff just bolts in.

Struts/coil overs - do a search on the S13 conversion. The backs basically bolt right in and the fronts you have to modify.

Brakes - the stock brakes are just fine for normal use. I would recommend KVR pads and SS brake lines and a good DOT4 or 5.1 (NOT DOT5 which is silicone based!) fluid like Castrol LMA (very good wet and dry boiling points and not very hydroscopic). For a cost effective upgrade.

Cold start problem? Did you check the cold start valve? The wisdom of other's doesn't always translate to your specific vehicle. Check out the FSM and/or simply search "cold start", etc. All the answers are in the FSM and for the very few you're unlikely to come across are probably already answered here or elsewhere on the 'net.

 

Thank you everybody for the welcome!

I have read up a bit on the s13 conversion and I'll most likely go for that.

I kinda jumped the gun and bought brake pads, but when I was changing my bushings I noticed my rotors were crap and so I ordered and received those.
ALSO UNFORTUNATE- the previous owner seems to have bottomed out something fierce, enough to have bent the rear sway bar and, not the bracket the holds the sway bar, but the bracket (it may not be a bracket, but i like that word) that it bolts onto.
So I need to find a replacement bracket and order a new rear sway bar.

Hopefully this week or so ill find time to finish what I can, then wrap it up when the part and SB come in.

What should i check the cold start valve for?
any pieces of advice for these things ive mentioned?

 

also, I have a friend doing and helping me do this work out of his garage, anybody repair a rusted trunk or know how to do this right?

 

Trunk? As in hatch?

Many of us have restored rusty Z's... it's not fun, but it sure is time consuming and costly (if you like that sort of thing).

 

haha, yea my bad..

well my friend and his dad are doing the work, they dont mind, theyre charging me 80 for the hatch and im going to put some hours in at the shop.
I was just checking to see if anyone knows an alternative?
im have some trouble with local used parts stores

 

Explain the hatch repair - is it the hatch lid itself? If so I'd just get a replacement - they are pretty common and it's a bolt on part...