NismoPick

The valve is a swamp cooler water valve...

snwbrderphat540

home made boost controllers idk.... heard many a bad things of them, manual boost controllers in general can get some wiked spikes, and who gets a Y fitting instead of a T lol n00b

NismoPick

Indeed... ebc FTW.

thxone

I have a specific routing idea for my vacuum lines....uh thank you. A poorly thought out and made MBC can have some bad spikes but if you make it right the spikes are minimal and most likely not noticeable when driving...also, I am not trying to get 30psi out of this thing so I am sure it will be smooth.

snwbrderphat540

doesnt matter how much your trying to make to get a wiked spike, look at bardabe, he was boostin his SR motor at 15 or somethign during a race adn it spiked up to somethign like 20 i believe leaned out the injectors and capoot, and i dont think his was home made either.

lww

So.... just my opinion, but boost spikes are generally the result of improperly/undersized, over-sprung or waste gates that react to slowly. It's usually not the manual boost controller unless it's restricting too much boost and leaving the waste gate closed...

thxone

I should have my boost gauge here pretty soon...I am the high bidder on Ebay

snwbrderphat540

pffft.... go out and buy one for reals.

thxone

Hey guys, this is not the boost gauge I am bidding on but doesn't it look like our factory boost gauges, only better cause of the 10psi?

NismoPick

Not bad if you're going for the stock look... but it doesn't show vacuum... and no readings over 10psi.

thxone

Well I got bored so I ran my line for my boost gauge and all the fittings. I ran the line through an existing grommet in the firewall under the clutch master cylinder. I don't have my gauge pod yet but will have it soon. The gauge is just strapped to the steering column so I could test it on the road. You will notice in the pics that when in neutral at an idle the gauge is at 20 in.Hg vac and the stock gauge is at -6 mm Hg vac. When driving both gauges were at 6 psi on the nose under full boost. The Autometer would drop to 25 in.Hg vac when letting off the gas at 5,000 rpm in gear. It may not be brand new and it has some blemishes but it works perfectly. Also you will notice that I use my "Y" connector for the Vac/Pressure line, I knew I was going to route the line in this manner and will be wrapping it in wire loom to protect it and for looks. The gauge will be mounted on the steering column near where it is at now...only centered.

NismoPick

Looks good homie!

snwbrderphat540

if you look, its in 7 X100 mmHg not inHG on the stock gauge. and i didn't know tats where the stock gauges are... hmmmm.... might have to find an old post of mine. lol

edit: oh and nice ghetto rig there. lol

thxone

Yeah, I understand that Snw...duh!! lol after doing some conversions the stock gauge is very close to the what I would assume to be the more accurate Autometer. At 20 in.Hg the factory would be at 508 mm Hg and clearly the factory gauge is slightly above that closer to 600+. I am a little proud of my gauge mount job....I may keep it like that

Once I get the gauge pod pictured in my previous post I will be adding the light socket and red bulb to it and permanently mounting it...the factory boost gauge is going to be removed for my voltmeter gauge from my gold '82. I held the Autometer boost gauge up to my A-pillar and where I would want to mount it at eye level would impede my steering clearance with my left arm even more so if it was in an A-pillar pod so on the steering column it will go. I will also be adding my MBC hopefully here soon as I won it on Ebay almost a week ago.

Once the boost controller is installed I will be adding an Autometer warning light so if the MBC fails and I overboost I can back off and save my engine. The light is small and works off of a pressure switch which I will also need to buy and they sell one set at 15psi and you can also hook up to the same light a temp switch and they have them for 200*, 220* and 275*

snwbrderphat540

you say you understand that, but you didnt type that. look at your post, you put 6 inHg. not mmHg. to me that came off as you were wondering what was up with that or soemthing. DUHHH!!!!

thxone

Ooooops, yeah that was a misprint...thanx...it's fixed now. but if we must come down to it then I can pick on you too.... LOL

thxone

Well, I have been removing parts from my gold '82 N/A and setting them aside so the scrap guy can come and get the body and haul it off and pay me a measly $75-100 for the car. I have titled and insured my brown '79 N/A and put it under a car cover...this has left me broke for two weeks. I will continue to work on my ZXT but will be saving up for a 2007 Kawasaki Ninja 250R (Candy Plasma Blue) I want a brand new virgin. I am doing this for a couple of reasons, 1: Economy (4.8 gal at near 70mpg) 2: Will give me transportation when the ZXT is being worked on 3: I really miss riding 4: It looks cool.

I will also be getting another intake/exhaust gasket for the '79 so it is running perfectly and I may just drive it also...it does have ice cold air, great brakes and plus it has my new ZE512 Falkens on it and I don't want them to go to waste. So, even though I am broke things are looking up. Can't wait to hit 10+psi

lww

Wasn't the body on your gold 280ZX in great shape? Aren't many of the body panels on your '79 rusted? I know the hood is swiss cheese. I'm trying to understand what you're trying to accomplish.

snwbrderphat540

ditto!!! ^^^^^


and those ninja's are slooowwww... a friend just got one, lol they are hysterical.

lww

Yeah, if you weigh over 80 lbs, you're going to be wanting more bike before the end of your first week.

If it were me, I'd look for one that's a few years old and let someone else take the depreciation. SOOOO many people buy bikes and then never actually ride them. The best deals I've ever seen were on 2 or 3 year old bikes with less than 5000 miles on them!

For my fat azz, 500cc is a minimum... ok... probably more like 600cc...

snwbrderphat540

they are basically like a scooter (vespa) with a tranny and slightly different seating position.

duowing

thxone you said that about 20 inHG should be reading about 508 mmHG on our stock boost gauges? If so that's good to know because my gauge while idling in Neutral sits a little past 5 or so, I was thinking maybe my vacuum was too low or something. I'm definitely considering getting an autometer gauge like yours and popping the volt gauge in place of my boost. The volts gauge on my N/A Zs was a pretty nice thing to have.

thxone

Actually the only real "rust" to speak of on my '79 is where the hood emblem went and other than that the rust is very minimal, I am just not a fan of the tan interior...I would not put the gold hood on that car...I like the same size vents of the '79 on the '79. The gold hood is going on the turbo with a few other parts. Lets not forget that my gold car has alot of black interior parts....mostly in the back half of the car and my Turbo is black inside. The gold car has a real big hole in the drivers side floor and the frame is crushed from jacking the car up...not by me. Overall it does look good but it's outta here...If this were my own place it would stay but we need the room and I can only drive one thing at a time....I still have a N/A and a Turbo...no need to be greedy. The guy at the scrap yard is swapping in a V8 for the track as he told me, so it will live on.

The Ninja 250R is not a race bike like a ZX11 but it is not slow for what it is. O-60 in 5.7 seconds is faster than my Turbo ZX but that is not why I want it. The rider position is mostly upright, the engine is liquid cooled, it gets almost 70mpg and has a 4.8 gal tank...that's almost 330 miles to a tank for less than $14. This bike will have no problem hauling me around with 26hp at the wheel and almost 18lbtq, my other bike was a single piston 125cc air cooled Honda street bike made in '84 with 10hp at best at the wheel and it had no problem haulin me around at 189lbs. I am 5'10" and 175lbs now so I think I will be good, I am not looking to go uber fast on it, if I did I would get a 600cc or better....just trying to be economical and have fun at the same time.

thxone

Yes.....and yes...get a boost/vac gauge....I will let you know how the volt gauge swap goes unless you do it before me. I will let you know if I run into any problems....or if you do it first, let me know

snwbrderphat540

teh 600's still get 50mpg or better actually even though they are sport bikes, but you should get a dual sport instead of the ex ninja's they are turds. dual sports you can at least still look cool on and you can off road them if you ever want to/need to. its what i kinda want since i still want a bike and know i ride dirt bikes good. just saying.