Right Right..........what is a CVT?

It's ok Snw....everyone is wrong sometimes...you just happen to be wrong all the time



J/K Snw lol

 

LOL, i was like, i posted that? you changed it though i was sooo confused for a minute, and your right to but teh only way thats helpful is if your encountering compressor surge which is why there are BOV's in which case youll most likely hear it so the VAC guage wont be to incredibly helpful in telling you much sept where your boost is after your back on the throttle.... idk, i find the actualy vacume itself from idleing a bit more useful, lol...

 

True, I think with any turbo equipped vehicle there is compressor surge...I think it just gets worse and or more noticeable when the boost is increased beyond factory settings. I know I want a BOV here pretty soon but I also want a FMIC and all the plumbing to go along with it. This is such a cool project....I can't wait till its done....though I am sure that won't ever happen....just new plans for it.

 

Continuously Variable Transmission.

No shifting = No compressor surge = no need for vacuum...

 

and rediculously expensive but teh best thing you can have for drag racing.... and thats all its usual for

 

HUH?!

New automobiles equipped with CVT:

* Audi A4 2.0/1.8T/2.4/3.0/2.0 TDI/2.5 TDI
* Audi A6 2.0/1.8T/2.4/3.0/2.5 TDI
* Dodge Caliber
* Fiat Punto 1.2 L
* Ford Escape Hybrid 2.3 L 4 cyl
* Ford Five Hundred 3.0 L 6 cyl
* Ford Focus C-MAX 1.6 L TDCi 110 PS
* Ford Freestyle 3.0 L 6 cyl
* Honda Civic HX 1.7 L 4 cyl
* Honda Civic Hybrid 1.3 L 4 cyl
* Honda City 1.5 L
* Honda HR-V 1.6 L
* Honda Insight 1.0 L 3 cyl
* Honda Jazz 1.4L / Honda Fit 1.3 L/1.5 L
* Jeep Compass 2.4 L
* Jeep Patriot 2.4 L
* Lexus GS450h 3.5 L 6 cyl
* Lexus RX400h 3.3 L 6 cyl
* Mercedes-Benz A-Class
* Mercedes-Benz B-Class
* Mercury Montego 3.0 L 6 cyl
* Microcar MC1/MC2 505cc 2 cyl diesel or petrol
* Microcar Virgo 505cc 2 cyl diesel or petrol
* Mitsubishi Colt 1.5 L MIVEC 4 cyl with INVECS-III CVT (Asian-Oceanian version only, 72 kW)
* Mitsubishi Lancer 1.6 L/1.8 L MIVEC 4 cyl with INVECS-III CVT (Asian version only) the 2008 version also
* MG F/MG TF 1.8L
* BMW MINI One and Cooper.
* Nissan Altima (from 2007)
* Nissan Cube
* Nissan Maxima (from 2007)
* Nissan Micra 1.0 L/1.3 L
* Nissan Murano 3.5 L
* Nissan Primera 2.0 L
* Nissan Qashqai 2.0 L
* Nissan Sentra (from 2007)
* Nissan Serena 2.0 L
* Nissan Skyline 350GT-8
* Nissan Tiida / Versa
* Opel Vectra 1.8 L
* Rover 25
* Rover 45
* Rover Streetwise
* Saturn ION Quad Coupe (2003-2004)
* Saturn VUE 2.2 L AWD (2002-2005), 2.2 FWD (2002-2004)
* Subaru R1
* Subaru R2
* Subaru Stella
* Toyota Highlander Hybrid 3.3 L 6 cyl
* Toyota Camry Hybrid 2.4L 4 cyl
* Toyota Prius 1.5 L 4 cyl

Old automobiles equipped with CVT:

* DAF 600
* DAF 750
* DAF Daffodil (types 30, 31 and 32)
* DAF 33
* DAF 44
* DAF 46
* DAF 55
* DAF 66
* Fiat Uno
* Ford Fiesta
* Honda Civic ESi
* Honda Civic HX
* Nissan Micra
* Subaru Justy
* Volvo 66
* Volvo 300 series
* Volvo 440/460
* Daewoo Matiz II with E3CVT (Currently GM Daewoo)

 

Would it save on gas? You'd think it might, but at the same time the CVT would always be aiming for optimum performance so you'd think you'd go through gas a bit quicker.

 

It depends on how it's "tuned".

You can configure the "aggressiveness" of the V part.

Most street cars with CVT's are tuned for a balance between performance and fuel efficiency with a heavier weighting to the fuel efficiency side of the scale.

 

i think im thinking of a different tranny then, lol..... same concept though.

 

man i hope that was a copy and paste lww
I didnt know so many vehicles came with a CVT.

 

Well I am swapping my rear shocks and springs from my '79 to my '82 Turbo. All is going well and it is very straight forward. The 3 nuts up top in the shock tower are 17mm as well as is the main bolt that holds the bottom of the shock to the brake/axle assembly. These cars are so easy to swap out rear shocks and springs that I almost enjoy doing it...the only bad part is trying to jack the car up without crushing something and doing all this in the central Florida sun. This will take care of my squat but I think will make the car break traction easier.

If any of you plan to remove your rear shocks and springs and this is your first time worry not, Jack the car up (NOT BY THE SUSPENSION!!) allow the suspension to extend fully when the car is jacked up, remove the top three nuts and washers first then the bottom bolt - remove shock and spring as a whole. If you need to remove the spring from the shock, now you will need a spring compressor - it is easier to remove the spring once it is out of the car...trust me. You can put the shock and spring back in by yourself...you may need long arms, top in first - once you get the top three bolts in (hold the bottom of the spring with one hand and install a washer then a nut with the other hand, it is a stretch) once you have one washer and nut on you can finish with the other two - hand tight!! Now line up the bottom hole in the shock (you will have to lift up on the brake rotor to align) and pull the shock over the mount - install bolt and tighten all the way - now tighten the top three nuts all the way. Shock tower cap and tire and your done.

I also swapped out my fully functional factory antenna from my gold '82 N/A to my Turbo so now that looks much better (one nut on the antenna at the base, outside of the car and two 10mm bolts behind the interior panel to remove the antenna, one wire clip and the antenna wire) This also was easy to do.

 

I generally avoid the stock jacking points. They're just too prone to being crushed under load and they make the car look crappy when they're bent up.

When jacking up the rear, I put the jack under the differential and jack up the entire rear. Use at LEAST 2 jack stands, preferably 3 or 4.

If you're jacking up the front, use the front cross member and 2 to 4 jack stands.

Never jack up the front and rear at the same time unless you have enough jack stands!

If you've never seen a car rock off a jack or a set of jack stands, you won't appreciate the danger or damage that can result.

Suffice it to say, it's pretty spectacular, especially if you're under the car when it happens!

 

The Diff is where I ended up jacking the car. I have two jack stands, three factory ZX jacks and a 3 ton floor jack overkill? Maybe, but I want to be safe.

 

I always jack at the front crossmember or the diff. When I do anything, I'd prefer to have it jacked safely. Also from what I learned, is before I get under the car and once I've got it on the jack stands and it looks sturdy I try and push the car/rock it. Maybe stupid, but if the car would fall off, much better that I ruin the car, than possibly hurt/kill myself by being under it when it could fall off.

 

As I suspected, the new shocks and stiffer (1 1/2 coil cut springs) have fixed the squat but have made it twice as easy to break traction...more fun too Before when it would squat and I hit second gear real hard the rear suspension would hop like erh erh erh erh!!!<-----"Tire Squeal" now its a smooth ERRRRRRRRRRHHHHH<-----"Tire Squeal" with no hop and barely any squat...still comfy to drive.

 

Time to get wider tires....

 

But I have 215/60/15 on it right now...pretty wide for the stock rim.

 

not really^^^^ i got 235's on a stock rim

 

since were on jacking points just curiousm, i jack by teh front cross member to but do teh s130's have that rear kind of crossmember that actually have a very thick block in the middle of it thats made for jacking up? ill show you a pic if that doesnt make sense, but im sure LWW knows what im talking about seeing as he owns like twelve hundred s30's

 

As far as ride quality and safety I won't go wider than these 215's, the sidewalls are already well past the lip of the rim and I can feel how squishy that are around corners....I am sure I will go to a Falken ZE512 on this car also but to the factory 205/60/15's....I have a pair of 205/65/15 ZE512's on my '79 and they are great but a hair too tall. Grip for days though.

 

Yes, and your rims are 14's correct? They are different than 15's, when it comes to size. I found that out, when I got my 15's for my '82. So when I go and get new tires for my slicky. I am putting 205 60r 15''s on it. Because the 215 60r 15's are too tall for me, and not quite wide enough for my tastes. Also I was running 235 60r 14's on my '82, before I went to the 15's. They were nice, with a decent width. So I figured I would go to a shorter setup, with the 15's. And that's when I found out, the difference between them. Anyway like I said the difference between 14's and 15's, sizes, is night and day.

 

Imma break it down...205/60/15:

205 - width in mm in this case 8.07in wide/60 - hight of sidewall in % of width in this case 123mm tall sidewall or 4.84in tall/15 - rim size in inches or 381mm rim size...

My 215's are 8.46in wide (tread width)

Your 235's are 9.25in wide (tread width)

 

Well it is down to one of these two boost controllers. I really like the look of the Hallman Pro and what they have put into it as far as protection and build, though the TurboXS is nice also. Hey, are our boost gauges electric or mechanical???

 

ummm, manual boost controllers you can just get at a local shop for dirt cheap. as long as its a REAL liek performance shop, AMS makes them here, i think you can even make your own, im getting one from my buddies for free. remember though, i think 12psi is when these injectors start to lean out. and according to nismo at 15psi the head gasket blows! lol

 

I actually did make one back when I had my Turbo Ranger...I ran it at 13-14psi with no problems 2.3L I4. I think I am gonna stick around 10-12psi with the ZXT. I think if our head gaskets blow at 15psi, these cars aren't worth a f##k. I am just getting the little things out of the way before I get the FMIC. Once I get the FMIC then 12-14psi.