jfairladyz

Yeah I'm still keeping an eye on it til I get it all finished and registered.

jfairladyz

Got bored and installed my NOS 255lph pump. And thats NOS the brand in case you're wondering. I got it for dirty *** cheap It's a lot quiter then the old pump. But it's by no means silent. Battery had just enough voltage to churn that baby for a couple seconds.

jfairladyz

Alright I got my battery, finally. I put it in and started the car. It started right up. But it was idling really high. At 2000rpm. So I checked the timing. I was off. So I adjusted it and the closest I could get it was 30degrees (of timing. It wasn't off by 30 degrees). So I figured I was off a tooth on the oil pump drive shaft. So I pulled the dizzy and dropped the pump and turned the shaft the minimum it would let me while still being able to engage it's gears. I put everything back together and went to start it. I started, but just barely. So I cranked the dizzy all the way in one direction and she started right up. But now she was idling kind of crappy. So I checked timing again and now it was at 10degrees. And that was with the dizzy turned as far as it could go. If I turned it the other direction it just moved closer to 0 degrees.

WTF?!? Why can't I hit 20degrees? I tried rotating the shaft a few times just to make sure I wasnt skipping a tooth and no dice. I can't dial it in to within even 10 degrees of the 20 degrees I'm aiming for. What gives? I sat there thinking about how it is driven by the carnkshaft. The only thing I can think of is if the crankshaft gear must be installed a certain way and I've got in backwards (front to back, like I need to turn it around). Maybe that's where my 10 degree's is going. That's the only thing I could come up with. Anybody have any other ideas why the timing would be so far off before I pull the front cover?

NismoPick

So when you pulled the oil pump shaft out, was it mis-aligned according to that reference dot?

jfairladyz

I had a mishap with my old oil pump I ended up cutting it off. And this one was a new one. So I dont know if the reference mark was aligned or not. I know with the new pump I made the alignment but that didn't really work out as it ended up not aligning the distributor.

Basically the gear on the crank determines how the shaft is ultimately going to line up. I've never had this kind of problem before. The only thing I can think of is if the gear on the crank that drives the oil pump shaft is directional and I put it on backwards. But I really don't want to pull the front cover off to find out it had nothing to do with this cause that seems kind of silly to me that it would be directional. But I really just can't think of anything else that would cause this.

jfairladyz

Well everything is good now. Just for kicks I put the motor at TDC and then moved it 10degrees and then reinstalled the oil pump shaft and distributor, etc... and started her up. Now she'll time perfectly. So I've got her sitting at 20 degrees. But she still had the high idle problem. I noticed the TPS wasn't connected yet so I plugged that in and adjusted it and the idle came down to where its supposed to be.

NismoPick

Wha wha! Now don't ya feel better now that ya don't have to pull the timing cover off!?

lww

HA! The HOA can kiss your aZZ now! That baby is runnin'!

jfairladyz

Damn right It was cool too cause I had neighbors coming up and talking to me about finally getting it up and running. I didn't know so many people were paying attention to the little car sitting at the top of the driveway. The funny thing is that I had it done a while ago. I just needed this damn battery

Oh and those guys at NOS are full of CRAP!!! That damn pump is so frickin' LOUD. I'm gonna have to dynamat the hatch before I even think about installing any sort of sound system. The stock pump was no where near as loud as this thing. And I was told this thing would be quiet It's got about 3/4" thick foam insulation sleeve around it too.

jfairladyz

Well I finally figured out why my idle has been so high. I got everything else worked out and the car is running great so I thought I'd tackle the idle problem. It took a bit of thinking but then I remembered the throttle adjustment screw on the side of the TB. The one that adjusts the position of the throttle plate. Well when I polished up the TB I must've created too much of a gap at the throttle plate. So I gave the screw a couple of turns to close the throttle a little more and voila! Idle is now spot on. It was baffling me cause all I kept thinking was the ECU was supposed to control the idle, so why would it be so high. Then it dawned on me. I felt pretty stupid afterward

Oh and the TPS ended up being bad so I had to replace that with the spare from the NA motor. That was causing a problem with the TPS connected. Now that's all worked out. SO the motor is finally where it should be. Now I've just got to get the steering installed and she'll be driveable (not leagally though).

naviathan

An NA TPS and a Turbo TPS aren't the same. The turbo uses only two pins where as the NA uses three.

jfairladyz

Thats funny cause they have the same part number The TPS is the same, it's the connector and wiring that is different. The only difference in TPS was that the pre 81 used a different type then the 81+.

naviathan

Could have sworn the difference was between turbo and non, but maybe it was 81+. My 81 has 3 prongs though. So does all my other cars, but I don't have any turbos.

jfairladyz

Yeah the connector on the turbos TPS harness only has 2 actual connectors in it (the third is empty). Whereas the Non turbo has all 3 connectors in the TPS harness. But the TPS itself has all 3 prongs on both turbo and non turbo (81+) I'm not sure what the earlier versions look like but they do have a different part number.

silvrhand

pics please, good angles and little morning dew would be nice too!

naviathan

Ok, so rather than making a different TPS they just changed the harness to adapt. Got it.

duowing

that'd make sense, it'd be cheaper. Why would the TPS need to be different though? I thought in essence the difference in prongs were just between auto and manual.

jfairladyz

The turbo doesn't use the WOT postion on the sensor. The NA does.

jfairladyz

Does anyone know the amperage ratings of the power window circuit breaker and the also of the fuse links?

jfairladyz

I think I removed half my body weight in wiring and electrical garbage from my car She just looks lighter now And chasing wires is now a hundered times easier. But man do my fingers hurt from fiddling with all those connectors. Theres not so many of them anymore

jfairladyz

I guess there's a possibility that crack in my turbo may have made a differnece after all. That or my boost guage isn't working right (aftermarket). Now my car is EXTREMELY loud due to no exhaust other than the downpipe so I haven't taken the car to full boost for the sake of the whiny neighbors. But I did manage to hit 5psi and it was around 4k+ RPM's The thing that gets me is that the engine revs incredibly well and doesn't show any signs of being underpowered. And I can hear the turbo spooling away from the moment I get on the throttle (no exhaust, remember). So it definitely sounds like its spooling. First thing I'm going to do is run a new signal line to my boost guage to see if it's just a leak there. If not then I guess I'm just going to have to live with slow boost til I can afford another turbo Man I can't wait to take this thing out on the road again. Almost time.

NismoPick

Is the stock emergency release valve still on the intake manifold? And do you have a boost controller?

jfairladyz

Boost controller is not hooked up yet and yes emergency relief valve is still on the car. But I dont hear it opening so I dont think its that. That was one of the parts I suspected but it's checking out. The only reason I'm not thinking it's the guage is because the response from vacuum to 0psi is instantaneous. So the response in the guage is there. So I'm kinda figuring it's the crack. I went ahead and took her all the way to full boost today. Once it's boosting it hits full boost quickly (and loudly). But it doesn't really start boosting til I'm already around 3500-4000RPM. I know thats too high for the stock turbo. I tried tweaking the timing a bit to see if that helped but it made no difference.

NismoPick

So it's at or below 0 at full throttle until ~3500rpm? Yeah... something is wrong.

jfairladyz

It'll shoot right up to 0 psi when I give it throttle. But it just sort of sits there, building 1 or 2 psi until the RPM's get up there. Then it shoots up to full boost. The only thing I can think of is that the crack is letting the exhaust gas leak past the waste gate door and then once the exhaust pressure is high enough (higher RPM's) there's more exhaust to spool the turbo. thats when the boost really starts coming on. I know it's not a restriction after the turbo cause other than the downpipe, there is nothing after the turbo. EVerything is bone stock at this point as far as the motor goes. I've got a boost controller, BOV, and intercooler (no piping) laying here. But I haven't gotten around to installing any of it.