NismoPick

Well... sounds to me like it needs a visit to a turbo shop. How do ya feel about taking it back out? 3 of the 4 manifold nuts are easy... one of the bottom ones is a pain in the *** to get tight again (when on the car)

jfairladyz

I'm going to leave it be until I can afford to upgrade to a T3/T4. It's probably beneficial at this point that it will stay out of boost so long with the cost of gas. I just hope I can tolerate it til then.

I'm going to be moving back to VA for a while until we can get our houses sold and then when I get back to Cali I've got a job at a pretty nice shop and getting a hold of a Turbo should be no problem there.

jfairladyz

A word to the wise: If you're going to disconnect the hood latch cable from the hood latch, make sure the hood cant latch shut You could ask how I know, but I'm sure you can probably guess.

But should this happen to you do not fret: Unbolt the front of the hood and it can be raised up enough for a rather skinny person to wedge themselves between the hood and fender to unbolt the hood latching mechanism from the firewall. If you're even slightly overweight, it ain't happening. Trust me. I'm a pretty skinny person and I was barely able to squeeze in there to get it done.

I'm just glad I didn't have to cut the hood off Another brain fart moment brought to you by yours truelly

On a side note, my car is almost completely wired back up. For those that dont know, I ripped out every single wire from the car and started completely rewiring it. This was partly out of frustration and partly out of boredom. If you're considing undertaking this same task be warned: It's no fun

jfairladyz

can anyone verify the size of the the nut/bolt combo holding the control arm to the front crossmember??? I'm eyeballing it at 22mm or 7/8, but I dont know if it's metric or standard and I need to go out and buy the right socket. So if anyone can answer that before I start a trial and error process of buying sockets that would be appreciated. Normally I wouldn't mind buying sockets in sizes I dont have. But i do have those sizes, just not at this house. They're with the rest of my tools 2000miles away

SHADY280

i thought it was 17mm, it is metric tho, 21 comes to mind, but not 22, just the drain plug is 22

jfairladyz

well it ended up being 22mm. Which is handy cause, as you said, it also does the drain plug. I'm talking about the main bolt/nut that hold the control arm to the crossmember Shady. It's a big *****, and it was definitely metric. It came in at exactly 22mm. Only ran me $6.00 for the socket at Autozone.

jfairladyz

One thing after an F'in nother. Well my tie rods are on the way, got another battery, combined two alternators to make a good one, put in my clutch master cylinder I picked up today and went to start the car. Started right up... but was revving kind of rough. I look at the tach and WTF!!!! the needle is gone. Same for all my main cluster gauges. No needles on anything. If you have a 3 year old, keep him out of your project car Well the rough revving was just the #1 and #2 spark plug wires being disconnected from when I did the alternator. Plugged em back in and she revs beautifully now.

So does anyone have an analog gauge cluster they want to unload??? My main concern is the fuel and water temp gauges. Those didn't work on mine. My speedo and tach are fine, the needles are just busted,so I can swap those over if need be. But if someone has an entire cluster that would be great. Low offer gets my mailing address. I'm moving again in 3 weeks and this car just keeps popping up with new surprises.

PooFlinginMonke

One thing to check is if the car is developing enough power to spool that turbo up.

If the timing is too retarded, you can keep it punched for about 6 seconds before the engine outputs exhaust with enough force to start generating boost.

If the car runs lame off boost, I would fix that first because it leads right into the complaint of slow boost.

jfairladyz

Timing is spot on at 20degrees per the FSM. That was one of the first things I checked. I'll see just how slow it boosts once I can actually take the thing out for a spin. But it revs really freely, no hesitation or stumbling. It's not sluggish to rev. Just waiting on those tie rod ends to come and it will be road worthy.

FubarI33t

your inluck J. I got a compleat cluster. Your's for 10$ plus shipping. I don't think Anyone can beat that. Only problem is, the speedo needle is broke. But every thing else is perfect.

jfairladyz

haha, it's the needles I actually need. If I dont get any other offers though I'll most likely take you up on that one. I found the broken off parts of the needles so I'm going to try some super glue. If that works then I'll probably take you up on the offer (cause I wont need the missing speedo needle).

Otherwise I'm going to need a speedo needle, so if anybody has a complete cluster???

Fubar, if I end up getting your cluster and pay you paypal, how soon can you ship???

SHADY280

i got a imp guage cluster j, goes to 120mph, you can have it, its in mint shape, and ill never ever use it. pm me your address, and ill get it out there, you just gotta pay the darn shipping, if i do 1 week airfreight it wont be too much. low miles too!!!

jfairladyz

you owe me a pm for you address too if you want that FSM in its entirety

FubarI33t

i say take Shady's offer sweet one.

jfairladyz

yeah...as long as shipping from Canada isn't going to be more then it would cost me to get a whole new Z

Hurry up and get your ish packed Shady (that came out wrong) so you can give me a quote on shipping before my wife decides to go on a shopping spree).

jfairladyz

Okay, I guess there was never any slow to boost problem to begin with. I did however figure out what was going on. I removed the FU cluster to discover the nylon tubing from the boost gauge had kinked over and was pretty much pinched shut. I figured that could have something to do with the slow boost reading of the gauge (while my engine definitely did not feel slow to respond). So I replaced the nylon hose with some small diameter vacuum hose and the problem was gone. She boosts up to 6-7psi fairly early in the rev range (cant say exactly what RPM since my tach needle is gone ) But the needle starts hitting boost almost immediately and then climbs to full (stock) boost very quickly). I'm glad that problem is taken care of.

Now if Shady would just PM me the shipping total for my new gauge cluster

SHADY280

sorry dude im moving to the new house, i should be able to get the part in a box, so it can be quoted very soon, sorry for the delay, so dont worry im all over it, im gonna assume 25ish, judging by what ive shipped before, no garantees

jfairladyz

would that be canadian dollars or US??? Not that it really matter anymore seeing how as they're practically the same now days. It's cool shady, I'm more concerned about these tie rods showing up. Home Owners stuck another notice on the car that it's to be towed on the 15th... Due to expired tags (just expired this month). I dont expect to need the gauges til I get back to VA anyways. Hopefully I'll be leaving in the next few days, basically whenever I get these tie rods on and get the steering aligned. Oh, and I'm just going to slap a muffler on and shoot it out the side of the car as a quick fix for the cross country drive.

FubarI33t

Shipping won't be to much from canada. Cost just under 6$ for one injector in padded package.

nismo619

i need some one to talk to me about how to upgrade the t-3 turbo to a t-4 were can i go to buy the partz i need?

jfairladyz

you dont upgrade the T3 to a T4. You can upgrade your T3 to a T4/T3 hybrid by mating the compressor of the T4 with the turbine of the T3. You get more power potential but still retain the fast spool of the T3. There are a lot of places that can do the conversion for you. I believe Nismopic has had it done and might be able to recommend a place.

NismoPick

Indeed! I just had a local turbocharger shop do it. Touchy items like turbos, I'd rather have a pro do the work. I paid about $150 or so for parts... and $100 for labor (I can't remember the exact, but somewhere around there). They replaced the compressor wheel & housing. With my SVO injectors, I should feel a nice difference.

Sorry about the thread jacking J... back on topic!

jfairladyz

It's cool, I brought you up for a reason. Not much of a thread to jack anyways. Just my little way of keeping all my posts about my car tucked into one thread instead of spreading it all over the place

I just wasn't sure where you got it done. Nismo619, I wouldn't recommend you try to do the conversion yourself. If someone like Nismopick says they payed someone else to do it then I'd recommend you do the same. I have never even attempted it so I couldn't tell you the ins and outs of it. One thing I can recommend: Dont buy your turbo from Ebay. Find one locally, or better yet, most turbo shops will have an assortment on hand.

jfairladyz

Tie Rods came today. That was fast, I only payed for them 2 days ago. And this was through ebay..so this guy gets props. If anybody needs parts for cheap then this guy is great. I got both outer tie rods shipped for less then what I could've payed locally at a parts store. And since the parts got here just as quickly as they would've at most parts stores too since they were a special order item around here.

So tie rods went in today. Steering track pretty much lined right up but I'm still going to take it in and get it all aligned professionaly. She took her maiden voyage (since the turbo swap) out of the driveway and right back in. I had to move her to the other side so I could clean up the mess left underneath her. So the plan now is to finish her up and drive her cross country sans any instrumentation other then the temperature gauge. Gas stations are pretty close together for the first portion of the trip so I can estimate what kind of mileage I'm getting based on a few quick fill ups in the beginning. My FU gauges are all functional so I've got those. But no speedo, tach or gas gauge.

lww

Rebuilding an engine that turns at maybe 7000 rpm is one thing, even a motorcycle that turns at 14,000 rpm is nothing compared to a turbo that spins at 200,000 rpm...

The stress on the components is more than you can possibly imagine unless you're an engineer trying to calculate the tensile strength of the individual parts.

The tolerances are also very important as a result.

I would recommend you have someone else do it for you.