Lesnocker

Well head gasket sealed. Car runs. Oil is actually losing the milkshake froth of antifreeze.

Then I pulled in the Garage perfect quiet idle then FRAP FAP FRAP FRAP. Great felt like a lower main. Nope timing chain is scary loose.

Tensioner side is tight. The slack side has a inch of slack! Did notice the car felt like it had a dead cylinder. Took it as a bad plug/wire. Nope

Tensioner I visually checked its still in her home. I used the exact same link on the sprocket! Why the hell all of a sudden I have all this slop?

could this affect the timing, causing the rough running?

Did see posts about the guide adjustments Tried and can get a ratchet down to the bolts nor a wrench.

NismoPick

I'm a bit confused...

The tensioner side IS the slack side (right side of engine / spark plug side).

You must have x-ray vision, or did you yank the timing cover? Because there's no way to see the tensioner from just peaking down at the top of the head...

Sounds like the tensioner popped out... (chain wasn't secured tight enough when the head was removed).

zedsdeadbaby

Yeah... if the tensioner side is tight and the tight side is loose, you jumped time.

Lesnocker

Sorry for the confusion.

I own a nifty scope light I wiggled down the front cover with the valve cover off. "used in home inspection".

Tight side is tight like it should be. The slop is on the drivers side of the car. When I installed the cam gear all was perfect.

Turned the car over with the starter before installing the valve cover. All was well then. It did backfire through the intake a few times. Getting back to it Sunday. Worse case I have to pull the case and buy a timing chain set.

looks as if I can leave the head and manifolds alone just gotta pull the Harmonic balancer oil pump/ distributor and water pump. May as well replace all that as well.

Lesnocker

[QUOTE=Lesnocker;320503]

Tight side is tight like it should be. The slop is on the drivers side of the car.

I'm an idiot. All due apologies . The tensioner is in however extreamly loose did notice it took no effort to push it back with the wedge. Dammit pulling the case!

Lesnocker

Well took a look today. Soon as I turned the cam counter-clockwise all slack was taken up and was dead on with TDC the cam notch was a tiny bit to the right. Could a Bad misfire be causing things to jump around? I went to #2 position on the cam gear and was way to the left Or 11 o'clock on the cam gear notch. Im slowly losing my temper. Going to buy new plugs wires and try again.

Or could all this be because The coil condenser is muffed up?

Lesnocker

Also under load the car blows a fireball out of my Amf and sounds like a 20 gauge shotgun so if the timing is a mile off could it be trying to fire before TDC causing the crank to jump making the chain smack the housing?

NismoPick

When properly installed, the chain should have NO slack. If there is slack, something is wrong w/ the guides or tensioner, or the chain was not lined up correctly:

Lesnocker

Been cold and wet so Ive put off digging in to the case. Random question Does the head have to be removed to get the case off. Not sure if there is clearance or if its wedged between the oil pan and head. I'm ordering the kit here in a few days. If I cant get this fixed just as well pull the turbo motor from the 79 rat rod and junk it and this motor.

NismoPick

If by case you mean "timing cover", you have to drop / loosen the oil pan...

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...ghtmare-37001/

Lesnocker

Haveing that same issue as before.

Car runs great when cold. Ran it around for a good hour. Then a heavy miss upon load. Such as a hill the car started chugging and back fireing. Then again clank clank clank clank clank right behind the water pump. @ 500 rpm idle. See I thought a timing chain issue would act a lot worse and would act like that 100% of the time. So I bought the timing set. My oil press is a tiny bit down due to the water in oil issue. I saw a high volume pump for 81.00.

Can I just loosen the pan enough to get the cover off and simply tighten back up with my friend mr. RTV sealant. Or am I screwed into removing the entire pan?

NismoPick

Merged all your threads.

I answered your timing cover / oil pan gasket question a month ago.

Lesnocker

Sorry man, Just started this crap again. Soon as the oil gets hot then the noise comes in and it sounds like its fireing 3x's per cylinder. Front main is included in the kit. Do I have to replace the wood drift key in the crank or anything stupid?

hate to have a missing part when I go to assemble. Should take 8-10 hrs? Im thinking lol

Lesnocker

what are the odds I clogged the oil port to the tensioner, when I cleaned the deck for the new head gasket? since the issues come and go??

Genewiz

I dont know how "easy" it is for you to push the tensioner back, but if it is not taking the slack out then it needs to be replaced.

Parts besides the timing kit (chain, cam gear, crank gear):

Tensioner set

gasket set: will need timing cover, oil pump, water pump, dizzy

Now is the time to change the water pump and any belts

If you bolts look old an rusty (especially around the waterpump) then you should get repacements.

Oil pan will need to be loosen to drop it away from the timing cover. If you do not drop it then when you go to put the cover on it will catch on the oil pan gasket and it up