Bleach

The world may never know...

Most every modification only adds 2-3 hp give or take. By combining a couple intake restrictions together you can free up 4-8hp. You basically need to have a cam to draw in the extra air and set up your intake and exhaust to allow the cam to work to its full potential. It gets you nowhere to ask what kind of power adding a K&N filter or a large throttle adds. A couple numbers here and there don't mean much. They are always low numbers. You can put some of that stuff on just for fun to see if you notice any difference,(like I did) or just do the whole setup front to back. Then look at it as a whole. Even after all that, you'll be doing pretty good to get 25hp over the baseline.

According to your other post, you may have already done the other work. If you see your stock AFM as the main intake restriction, just do what you can to open it up. You may notice a difference... maybe not.

Skully

just to follow up oh here since you got your answer already
i got my TB now and will the TPS of the 280zx work with the 240sx TB....(didnt come with one)
also where was that picture of the swapped NA AFM internals into the turbo NA ...i searched and couldnt find it...

Bleach

I heard that only the 89-90 240SX has the throttle position switch like the 280ZX. You'll need that version. The later throttle bodies are for "aftermarket" fuel injection systems only.

I don't know where the picture is. Do you really need it? You just open up what you got and carefully remove the soldered points and insert it into the larger AFM. Carefully remove the turbo stuff first as practice. I asked a guy about the conversion. He did it on his 280Z and says it worked out good. Here is some text from our email conversations.

- - - - - - - - - - - -
bleach.first,if you haven't already swapped the 'boards',i would
practice desoldering a board from a junk-yard afm.i had several to practice
with. i found that too much heat can crack the board,so desolder one contact
at a time,and let things cool down before desoldering the next contact.also
buy some braided desoldering wick.radio shack sells it.on my board (76 Z) the
contacts that you desolder were bent 180* on the backside of the board which
made it even more difficult to pull them out of the small slot while melting
the solder(desoldering). deffinately use tweezers. i did my conversion last
summer and am actually tweeking it a little more this week.one thing i
figured out this year (on my car anyway) is 3,000rpm is the limit for good
gas mileage! if i shift over 3 k rpm there is a noticeable drop in fuel
economy! internally my engine is stock,I rebuilt with oem parts.all i
actually modded is the fuel rail,intake and 2 1/4 exhaust and a 2 1/2 turbo
muffler. sooo.......if your engine is modified;cam,headers ect. the tweeking
may be different.
i installed the TWM 60mm TB and the turbo AFM at the same
time. yes i noticed a differance from stock.it revs up a lot quicker.it's not
faster than most new V-6's ,but it is deffinately quicker than stock......and
know,there is no smoke from exhaust,the spark plugs are 'brownish'rust
colored. i will get a puff of grey smoke if i shift at 4500 to 5000 rpm but i
rarley do that. the Z has no 02 sensor to compensate for wot richness, or for
any over rich/lean condition. i bought my TB used from ROB SIME.he used to
post a zcar and had the website "PLANET Z". his z had headers and a cam. he
put a variable rheostat in series with the temp.sensor to help control
mixture.i bought one also (from RADIO SHACK) but have not installed it
because i don't think i need it.btw,i get 20 mpg keeping it at 3k or
less.probably about 15 if i 'get in to it'.
as far as tuning....i have a 76,so the stock afm contains a set of
points that are closed when the 'afm door' opens.when the points are made the
fuel pump is energized.you don't have this set-up.but i turned down the idle
screw on the TWM throttle body and adjusted the by-pass screw on the turbo
AFM to obtain a smooth ildle,and then bring up idle to 800rpms with idle
screw on the AFM.I had to adjust the AFM screw just enough to open the
'door' so the fuel pump contacts would make. then run it for a week and check
your spark plugs. tighten afm spring to lean out mixture,loosen a notch to
increase richness.i was adjusting one notch a week. BUT...i have discovered
my poor mpg above is probably do to a small fuel leak. i installed a AUTO
METER 0-60 PSI guage this spring because the JEGS gauge was 6 psi low. i
think the fitting or the new guage is leaking as i can smell gas (slightly)
when i open the hood after a good run. i found your website a few years
ago,and looked at it again yesterday.......you're no dummy. frank