valve lash
#1
valve lash
i had valve tick,,, i dont have tick any more... if your zx has valve tick set them to 00.08 intake and 00.10 ex when there hot ...this will open your vales just a bit more and you will feel a diff.in power.you hear a diff in how your valves sound and in how your motor idles... i now have no valve tick i only tticking i hear is my injectors doing there job i think now that if i mess with the afm i will beable just the rich ness or lenness of the injector flow and get it to a right setting ....thanks Bleach that worked awsome YOU always know whats best
Last edited by 81 Black L28E; 06-04-2005 at 06:12 PM.
#5
Hey wait a minute. Is this HybridZ.org we are on?.......... Nope ... uh, the address still says zdriver.com. Ease up guys. who gives a care!
Red is alright in all our books and I have no problem reading and understanding what he wrote....and Bleach didn't Red just thank you earlier in this post. Dont make Scully "come over there and slap you with a trout thats been laying out in the sun for 10 days"....
Red is alright in all our books and I have no problem reading and understanding what he wrote....and Bleach didn't Red just thank you earlier in this post. Dont make Scully "come over there and slap you with a trout thats been laying out in the sun for 10 days"....
#6
let's play nice
i have some extras, so everyone gets some. lets share and play nice!
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!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))):::::::::::::: ::::;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
"""""""""""""""""" ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ......................... ?????????????????????
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#7
I like youre style, BJ! So Red, how do I set the valves or whatever you did, I've gota pretty bad tick( I tried to burn it out like the rest but it's a stuborn SOB!), and need my car to last atleast untill the end of winter. Motor swap, baby! Oh, Red, I also only made it to nineth grade, then I went to online homeschooling. I have a greeeat ejudamnctsions!
p.s. sorry bout the bad joke in quotes.
p.s. sorry bout the bad joke in quotes.
#8
hey no problem man ..sometimes i can even read or understand what iam talking about .i always try to go back and edit my posts......anyway
valve lash .. ok get your zx up to temp ....pop you valve cover off ....at this point you have to put your motor to top dead center.....If you have not done this befor learn how ...Iam lazy so i just turn my key and watch the rotor spin... Each time the rotor gets to #1 plug, i stop and check to see if the cam gear and chane are at the top dead mark.. if not around one more time .. you can also turn it to top dead by hand ,with a wreach on the cam gear or there are to locking teeth on the cam that you can use .if you have a big eff wreach..doing it by hand will make you back hurt and make the motor cold you dont want ether....SO after you get it to top dead ..ajust valves #3,8,11 to:{00.08}it takes a 14mm on the top nut and a 17or19mm for the bottom nut..
now ajust valves #1,7,9 to:{00.10} ...after you get #9 locked back down turn the cam over 180 deg .{by hand}..so that #1 #2 cam lobs are down and the rotor is 180 away from the top dead point . Now ajust valves #2,5,10 to: {00.08} ...now do valves #4,6,12 to:{ 00.10} ..putt you valve cover back on plug everything back in check oil ,fluids and all that good stuff starter up ...{00.10} and {00.12} are what the factory says to set them at but after 20 years of wear they most likely will tick so bad that you wont want to drive your car if there set that way..also make sure that you lock each valve back down really well, as you do each one that way one wont come loose later and make you do them all over again..
This will make your car have less tick if any at all and your car will pull more not really more power... just more pull....it also seems to have made red run a little richer but i think that has to do with my afm not my valves ..have fun and good luck ....it took me four times to get it right
valve lash .. ok get your zx up to temp ....pop you valve cover off ....at this point you have to put your motor to top dead center.....If you have not done this befor learn how ...Iam lazy so i just turn my key and watch the rotor spin... Each time the rotor gets to #1 plug, i stop and check to see if the cam gear and chane are at the top dead mark.. if not around one more time .. you can also turn it to top dead by hand ,with a wreach on the cam gear or there are to locking teeth on the cam that you can use .if you have a big eff wreach..doing it by hand will make you back hurt and make the motor cold you dont want ether....SO after you get it to top dead ..ajust valves #3,8,11 to:{00.08}it takes a 14mm on the top nut and a 17or19mm for the bottom nut..
now ajust valves #1,7,9 to:{00.10} ...after you get #9 locked back down turn the cam over 180 deg .{by hand}..so that #1 #2 cam lobs are down and the rotor is 180 away from the top dead point . Now ajust valves #2,5,10 to: {00.08} ...now do valves #4,6,12 to:{ 00.10} ..putt you valve cover back on plug everything back in check oil ,fluids and all that good stuff starter up ...{00.10} and {00.12} are what the factory says to set them at but after 20 years of wear they most likely will tick so bad that you wont want to drive your car if there set that way..also make sure that you lock each valve back down really well, as you do each one that way one wont come loose later and make you do them all over again..
This will make your car have less tick if any at all and your car will pull more not really more power... just more pull....it also seems to have made red run a little richer but i think that has to do with my afm not my valves ..have fun and good luck ....it took me four times to get it right
Last edited by 81 Black L28E; 06-06-2005 at 09:53 AM.
#10
Sorry, I didn't want to be a stickler, I don't want to create negative vibes. I have no beefs here, and hope noone took offense. Also, valves are fun! I adjusted mine during spring break when I put back in a cam (stock, god I hate CARB). I did mine to the cold settings because I was lazy and didn't want to burn myself.
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