Windshield question
#1
Windshield question
When I bought my '81 ZX, the windshield was cracked on the driver side.
Later on, I bought an '82 ZX for parts...which happens to have a good windshield with no cracks.
My question, can I use the windshield from the '82 ZX and install it on my '81?
Is this advisable, will the windshield get damanged or something once it's removed?
Later on, I bought an '82 ZX for parts...which happens to have a good windshield with no cracks.
My question, can I use the windshield from the '82 ZX and install it on my '81?
Is this advisable, will the windshield get damanged or something once it's removed?
#2
If you're careful you can get it off and back in without damaging it. Just make sure you've got the windshield completey released before applying too much pressure on it to push it out. As far as whether it will fit, all year 280zx windshields are identical.
#5
My personal favorite is to take two wooden dowels cut short enough to comfortably fit in your hand. then drill a hole through the middle (hotdog style) of each dowel. Feed a piece of thin wire through one dowel and tie it off. Then feed the other end of hte wire through the windshield adhesive and then tie it to the other dowel. Now you and a buddy just cut the adhesive like you're using a cheese slicer. Of course, you'll have to get the adhesive removal started before hand in order to feed the string though. A little heat from a blow dryer makes the cutting process easier too.
#6
This brings me to another question..my Warning Display light is showing a blinking STOP followed by a picture of the radiator. I've had this warning for quite some time now.
I've replaced almost all the sensors by the thermostat housing, including the thermostat, water pump, fan clutch and the radiator.
Any ideas as to what might be causing this blinking STOP and the radiator picture to come up on the warning display?
I've replaced almost all the sensors by the thermostat housing, including the thermostat, water pump, fan clutch and the radiator.
Any ideas as to what might be causing this blinking STOP and the radiator picture to come up on the warning display?
#7
i do belive its the radiator resovor pull it out and look at the connections underneath... also check to see if " the floater" inside your radiator revsovor is working right... that should be your problem right there..
#8
Originally Posted by nismo619
i do belive its the radiator resovor pull it out and look at the connections underneath... also check to see if " the floater" inside your radiator revsovor is working right... that should be your problem right there..
#9
The stop lamp warning seems to be pretty common. The system works on a difference of resistance. First off have someone hold the brake pedal down while you verify that all the stop lights are working. If all the lights are coming on then check the connectors and bulbs for corrosion.
As for the radiator warning, Nismo hit that one on the head.
As for the radiator warning, Nismo hit that one on the head.
#10
Nismo and J...Thanks!! That fixed that problem.
Question, what's the proper idle rpm for these cars? Mine idles at 800RPM (the mark below 1K, so I'm assuming it's 800rpm) Is that the right idle timing?
Also, what could be causing for the Hazard fuse to blow? It's supposed to be a 20A fuse, but something keeps blowing it. Obviously if I put a 30A, it works fine, but I want to fix whatever's blowing the 20A fuse.
Question, what's the proper idle rpm for these cars? Mine idles at 800RPM (the mark below 1K, so I'm assuming it's 800rpm) Is that the right idle timing?
Also, what could be causing for the Hazard fuse to blow? It's supposed to be a 20A fuse, but something keeps blowing it. Obviously if I put a 30A, it works fine, but I want to fix whatever's blowing the 20A fuse.
#11
drawing too much of a load through the circuit causes fuses to blow (too much heat). That probably means theres an area of high resistance somewhere. Make sure you dont have any wires burned up and make sure the circuit isn't gounding before it gets to the components.
Proper idle is about 700RPM give or take 100. So 800 is still within specs.
Proper idle is about 700RPM give or take 100. So 800 is still within specs.
#13
There is a eazy way to see if the your zx is set to the right rpm idle range..
If you look in between the tachometer and its mounting hole then you will see two little lines on the edge of the tach right at the 700 rpm spot..
If the needle is right in between the lines , Then your idle IS good to go.. : )
If you look in between the tachometer and its mounting hole then you will see two little lines on the edge of the tach right at the 700 rpm spot..
If the needle is right in between the lines , Then your idle IS good to go.. : )
#14
Originally Posted by 81 Black L28E
There is a eazy way to see if the your zx is set to the right rpm idle range..
If you look in between the tachometer and its mounting hole then you will see two little lines on the edge of the tach right at the 700 rpm spot..
If the needle is right in between the lines , Then your idle IS good to go.. : )
If you look in between the tachometer and its mounting hole then you will see two little lines on the edge of the tach right at the 700 rpm spot..
If the needle is right in between the lines , Then your idle IS good to go.. : )
Mine sits just a tad below the bottom line.
#15
Originally Posted by jfairladyz
That probably means theres an area of high resistance somewhere. Make sure you dont have any wires burned up and make sure the circuit isn't gounding before it gets to the components.
The dashboard lights come up now, the only thing not working now are the turn signal lights.
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