yeah if it makes it..lol. which a/c lines you talking of though, the whole units gone so i'd say yes...dam J leave already, i told him to wait. Should i start a 619 thread...like bashing 619..that way he might get pist and respond...can't someone just ban him.

 

ok heres the picts i was talking about, it's a yellow blue to red/white, red/white is the one from the z31 plug. So wheres it go and how do i fix it, dam that sucks huh.

 

k... that wire plugs in to slot #12 on the ecu plug. You will see the slot #'s at the base of the plug where the wires come out. Make sure it goes back in the right way & that it won't slip back out.

 

cool, it just cliped right back in, nice. i haven't started it yet, cause the spark plugs were soaked and are drying off. I'll let you no though, and where the 12, is suppose to be, is the clippy mark yes, i hope so.

ok, now it started but still died, spark plugs smell of gas and look burnt grey on the tips, what else could it be, and it smells rich when it dies.

 

As long as you see 11 on one side & 13 on the other, you're ok. So.... ya fire it up yet?

 

yeah read above^^^ it still dies, it drops down to idleing tthen sputters then dies, stll don't no, what could it be....and chts, will one from a n/a work? I don't no what else it could be.

 

It's prolly just flooded because of that wire. Clamp off the fuel line right after the fuel filter then crank it w/ the gas pedal to the floor for about 20 seconds to clear it out. If it starts, let it run. After that unclamp the line & try to start it.

 

no it started and was at high rpm, the droped to idle, then after a couple seconds, it bogged down and died. It took two tries to restart then did the same. The plugs are out right now, they were wet again. Hmm, what else could it be, has to be electrical? cause i have gas. and lots of it. It made me get a brain ache.

 

have you checked to make sure you're even getting spark and it's not just over fueling?

 

yes, why would it start if i;m not getting spark...on another note i took out the wiring harness, to clean up the unneeded wires, and there is a little cylinder looking thing, comes off the positive wire to the alternator, i don't no where it went from, maybe it was just behind the positive from the alt? I'll get picts, if needed.

 

oh, and yesterday, i started the car, and it felt good, so i turned it around, let it idle, then it dropped rpm's, then sputtered and died. What woukl dthat be, still maf or what. it's going to suck if i have to spend 200$ on a trailor to get it to cali...meh, then i'll have a trailor for hoovs car tho..haha.

 

Did you try swapping chts's yet?

 

no, i'm going to go to the j. yard in the next couple days, i get some money...i just cleaned up all my wiring and it looks a buch better. Can you read my last post on the last page. Its on a white wire, to the alt.

 

would you be jealous if I got a 1988 turbo ECU for my swap? :P

 

no cause it wouldn't work, haha...can someone post up picts of the back of their alternator. That'd be nice...And B, it would work but it takes alot more mods. to make it worky!

 

why do you say that? I've never heard anything about the 16 bit ECU from 1987-89 not working exactly the same. Where is this new info?

 

new info? so B, you have an extra chts, that i can have? That'd be nice of you. The newer z31 ecu's are reprogramable, but they require more mods. but if you use them you can use a z32 maf. So yeah. And i'm not jelous, cause thats another car im buying when i get to cali, he wants a grand for it. Which is worth it, since i get an lsd, a 5 lug front conversion and many parts, to sell..plus its got a new turbo on it..haha. Got you there. Chts?

 

Wrecked... that cylinder is an interference piece. I don't have mine w/ my new alternator.

Bleach... you can use any 88-89 ecu. I believe they are the same physically, but the turbo has a different programmed chip. To do that ecu upgrade, it's just one wire different in the swap, but you have to use the later Z31 O2 sensor (3 wire) which has a different thread / diameter. But if ya go that way... you can tune it because those are eprom re-programable.

 

so no one has a pix. of the back of an alternator...oh and nismo, can you help out dgriffin, starter prob...and how much would it cost for you to weld up a down pipe or two for me? My car seems better, but shivvers still, miss? or what. Hasn't died yet but i haven't gone for a drive either.

 

Attached is a pic... from the Haynes manual. I assume you are talking about the condensor? It should have a connection & just bolt to the alternator.

I can weld together a downpipe for ya. You just need to get: a 2.5" mandrel U-bend, a 4"x4"x.5" steel plate for a flange, and a high power drill (I toasted mine drilling the hole for my last downpipe )

 

that picture is hella confusing, if i snap a pix, can you just tell me if its, right! That'll be easier. So what would like, engine shivering be?

 

Yep... it's the condensor. I don't really get why you are worried about it... just leave it the way it is, and it'll be fine. .05oz of weight won't make much difference.

Engine shivering... are you sure you capped off the egr & aac correctly? There could be a massive vacuum leak. Take a pic of your engine bay... I want to see what it looks like right now. Maybe I can spot a prob.

 

ok i'll go get a pic right now
alt. stuff i wasn't thinking of removing it, just redid all my wiring and it just fell off, when i unbolted something, don't know where it went, just didn't want to hurt anything.

picts now.

 

When you took out the egr & aac actuators (from below the AFM) did you cap EVERY vacuum tube? There should have been one going to the boot between the AFM/MAF and turbocharger. Make sure there are no openings or loose tubes there. Also... you left the boost sensor on, but I can see the vacuum tube hanging disconnected. That originally hooked to the tubes running on the side of the intake. One of those tubes connected to a port on the intake. What did you do w/ that port?

 

grinder+jb weld works well. Yeah i was going to take it off(boost sensor), but couldn't unscrew it..rusted stuck, but it'll be gone before long. And a bolt went into the hose from maf into turbo, then clamp over it...could it still be leaking...naw, but i'll check.