You guys are going to kill me......
#1
You guys are going to kill me......
OK, yes I know we've gone over this a million times but I've spent hours and hours and hour to get the tie rods off, and they just will not budge. So lets go over this.
A) 13mm wrench goes on the pinion arm it self
B) 22mm wrench goes on the tie rod nut
C) I've tried going both clock wise and counter clock wise with both of them
Am I just a complete idiot or am I missing something? (I have soaked the arm in deep creep) The local shop wants 120.00 for labor to replace them. Not going to happen. I want to get this done because once I get my fuel rail in from Palnet I'll want to run my car with the new head work. So don't kill me, I know this is annoying, and I'm sorry.
A) 13mm wrench goes on the pinion arm it self
B) 22mm wrench goes on the tie rod nut
C) I've tried going both clock wise and counter clock wise with both of them
Am I just a complete idiot or am I missing something? (I have soaked the arm in deep creep) The local shop wants 120.00 for labor to replace them. Not going to happen. I want to get this done because once I get my fuel rail in from Palnet I'll want to run my car with the new head work. So don't kill me, I know this is annoying, and I'm sorry.
#2
13mm & 22mm??? They should both be around 17-19mm???
This is what you are trying to remove right?
See where the cotter pin is pointing on the right tie rod??? There is a flat spot on there to attach the wrench. Then the other wrench goes on the nut:
Put both wrenches close together to make a V then pull them away from each other.
This is what you are trying to remove right?
See where the cotter pin is pointing on the right tie rod??? There is a flat spot on there to attach the wrench. Then the other wrench goes on the nut:
Put both wrenches close together to make a V then pull them away from each other.
#6
Originally Posted by wgc_3
I have been doing this.
Is is left threaded?
Is is left threaded?
#7
Ok thank you.
I'll try it and post later on today.
So it should look like this?
If I am not mistaken the nut should go clockwise (down) and the arm should go counter (up)
I'll try it and post later on today.
So it should look like this?
If I am not mistaken the nut should go clockwise (down) and the arm should go counter (up)
Last edited by wgc_3; 01-09-2007 at 01:00 PM.
#10
Originally Posted by wgc_3
If I am not mistaken the nut should go clockwise (down) and the arm should go counter (up)
#12
Man now I have the wrench on the tie rod jamed between the sway bar and the a arm, and using the other wrench with a large pry bar to get the nut loose, and it still will not budge.
I think I am going to go down to the hardware store and pick up a torch maybe heat will help. What do yall think?
I think I am going to go down to the hardware store and pick up a torch maybe heat will help. What do yall think?
#16
Originally Posted by NismoPick
DUDE..... it seriously can't be this hard.... Remember: lefty loosie, righty tighty. Use some pipe extensions to give you more leverage... and wear leather gloves so you don't bust your nuckles.
#17
I am sick, I am so pissed about these damn tie rods. I am going to pay the local shop 120.00 to remove two tie rods, man I feel like I've bent over..... I'm not happy to say the least.
Before I take it to them lets go over one other thing. Cam gear, how the F does it go on? I've read Haynes, still don't get it.
Before I take it to them lets go over one other thing. Cam gear, how the F does it go on? I've read Haynes, still don't get it.
#18
Is the lower part of the chain still tight? If you let the chain loose, the tensioner (located just above the crank in the timing cover) pops out & you won't be able to get enough slack to put the cam gear back on.
If the chain is still tight, just put a screwdriver through a cam hole onto the cam & lightly leverage it up until you can slide it on.
If the chain is still tight, just put a screwdriver through a cam hole onto the cam & lightly leverage it up until you can slide it on.
#19
Well I guess when I removed the head I didn't keep the slack tight enough. Last night when I went to put the screw driver in I snap it in half so I'm guessing that isn't what you meant by lightly.
How hard is it to remove the timing cover, and what all is involved?
Thanks,
wgc_3
How hard is it to remove the timing cover, and what all is involved?
Thanks,
wgc_3
#20
Originally Posted by wgc_3
Well I guess when I removed the head I didn't keep the slack tight enough. Last night when I went to put the screw driver in I snap it in half so I'm guessing that isn't what you meant by lightly.
How hard is it to remove the timing cover, and what all is involved?
Thanks,
wgc_3
How hard is it to remove the timing cover, and what all is involved?
Thanks,
wgc_3
To remove the timing cover:
-Take off all the belts & pullies
-Take out all the bolts (on the cover face, oil pan, and cylinder head joint.
-Remove timing cover.
-Note... The correct way to install is to put the timing cover on first, oil pan second, then head. If the oil pan & head are already on tight, it's a BIOTCH to get the cover back in w/o ruining the gaskets.
#21
It sounds like to me it would be a hell of alot easier to just pull the engine?
So I have to pull the head back off.
What a bitch, I just got done doing just this........
I've never pulled an engine with a standard tranny, how hard is it?
So I have to pull the head back off.
What a bitch, I just got done doing just this........
I've never pulled an engine with a standard tranny, how hard is it?
#22
Naw, you don't need to pull the engine. The easiest way (in your situation) would be to loosen the oil pan enough to drop the front down a lil so you can slide the cover back in place. You could use some kind of plastic shims between the pan & front of the block to make more room.
I've had to do this before, so I know just how you're feeling.
I've had to do this before, so I know just how you're feeling.
#23
Well here is my problem, last time I pulled the oil pan I couldn't get it out because the back would hit the tranny, and the buldge of the pan would hit the crossmember. Or are you saying not to pull it just create enough room to work?
Thank you for your help Nismo.
Wgc_3
Thank you for your help Nismo.
Wgc_3
#25
Originally Posted by wgc_3
Or are you saying not to pull it just create enough room to work?
Originally Posted by wgc_3
Do I HAVE to pull the head off?