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You guys are going to kill me......

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Old 01-10-2007 | 12:18 PM
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you're killin' me....
Old 01-10-2007 | 12:28 PM
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Hence the name of the chat!
Old 01-10-2007 | 02:20 PM
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Should I take the radiator out? Its already empty.
Old 01-10-2007 | 02:22 PM
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Makes it a lot easier.
Old 01-10-2007 | 03:58 PM
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Before I start to tackle this tonight am I going to need any special tools? Like a puller for the balancer?

What should I be aware of before I dig what seems to be another hole?


Thank you,
wgc_3
Old 01-10-2007 | 04:11 PM
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Just keep things in order & have your Haynes manual at your side. You shouldn't need a pulley puller unless the sucker is rusted on. Usually a couple whacks w/ a mallet & a long screwdriver to pry will get it loose.
Old 01-10-2007 | 05:24 PM
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hmmmm

Originally Posted by wgc_3
Ok thank you.

I'll try it and post later on today.


So it should look like this?




If I am not mistaken the nut should go clockwise (down) and the arm should go counter (up)

looks like to me, in his photograph, that he hasn't seperated the tie rod end from the knuckle arm...looks like to me the castle nut is still on there....hmmm? can't say for sure, but the other side looks attached too??or is that the end link for the sway bar?

what do yaall think?

no wonder it won't budge! am I wrong or what? The way fubar and I did it was to [first] drive the tie rod from the knuckle arm....

Last edited by captken; 01-10-2007 at 05:27 PM.
Old 01-10-2007 | 07:24 PM
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I did that so I could show a picture. When they're loose they wont stay on. But yes I used a hammer to get them out of the knuckle.
Old 01-11-2007 | 05:09 AM
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How about a dremel tool?!
Old 01-11-2007 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by wgc_3
How about a dremel tool?!
Dremels are cool... but what about them?
Old 01-11-2007 | 09:50 AM
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just change out your entire steering rack!
Old 01-11-2007 | 09:51 AM
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This entire thread is killing me!


Anyone have a Plasma Cutter they can loan him?




Rod.
Old 01-11-2007 | 10:12 AM
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WGC.... have you tried clamping those wrenches together to break it loose? Align them so you can squeeze them together w/ a c-clamp or similar.
Old 01-11-2007 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by NismoPick
WGC.... have you tried clamping those wrenches together to break it loose? Align them so you can squeeze them together w/ a c-clamp or similar.

Yes I've tryed that too. I think I will go down to the local Acme store and pick up a box of TNT, that should do! :s-redeemer:
Old 01-11-2007 | 08:41 PM
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LADIES AND GENTLEMEN,


I am proud to say that operation face lift (front cover) was a success! There were no complications, the chain was caught on it self, and the runner thing that is spring loaded was jacked up. Where can I get a new spring?

Also lets talk about a few things before I spend the next few hours reading Haynes.

Timing the car. I want to make sure it is timed perfectly. I've done this much work and now I want it perfect. Any suggestions you can give on anything is much welcomed!

Thank you so much everyone!


How do I see if the car is TDC without removing the head, also how do I make sure that the cam is "TDC" so I get it right, if this is to much to type just say Haynes, and I'll read it.

Just like having everyone elses information.

Last edited by wgc_3; 01-11-2007 at 08:52 PM.
Old 01-11-2007 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by wgc_3
Also lets talk about a few things before I spend the next few hours reading Haynes.
I suggest doing just that... READ THE HAYNES MANUAL.

Originally Posted by wgc_3
Timing the car. I want to make sure it is timed perfectly. I've done this much work and now I want it perfect.
Just make sure you line up the oil pump correctly... then when it's all back together time it w/ a timing gun.
Old 01-12-2007 | 08:17 AM
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Went to the auto parts store, and well they can't help me getting the tension piece in. So went to Nissan, they want $88.00 for that little spring because mine is bent in half. Is it me or is that insane?
Old 01-12-2007 | 08:22 AM
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Supply and demand. When demand is low and so is supply the price goes to make a buck and cover the cost of limited production.
Old 01-12-2007 | 08:27 AM
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Lower part of page... #5... Timing Chain Tensioner: $13

Old 01-12-2007 | 08:28 AM
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Yeah I can understand that.
Old 01-12-2007 | 08:30 AM
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NISMO, dude I forgot about them THANK YOU so much!
Old 01-12-2007 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by wgc_3
NISMO, dude I forgot about them THANK YOU so much!
I'd go to a diff parts store first... someone should be able to order in JUST the tensioner, but MSA & BDA are always back ups.
Old 01-12-2007 | 08:45 AM
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Nismo dude thank you, I ordered all the parts with guides, new chain, all the goodies shipped to my door for $75.00

I usally have there catalog next to my bed but with everything packed I forgot.

Thanks nismo!
Old 01-12-2007 | 08:53 AM
  #49  
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Werd slick!
Old 01-12-2007 | 11:39 AM
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OK guys I am going to be **** about the timing because I don't want to F up my engine again.

Lets go over this please.

1) The #1 hole on the camshaft gear should be place on the stem on the camshaft

2) The bright chain link should be aligned with the #1 notch on camshaft gear

3) The bright chain link should be on the notch with the crank shaft.

This is simple compared to the book I understand, but want to make sure I have the over all idea. If anyone feels like I need to take pictures and post them I gladly will.

Also what the hell do they mean by direction number 27 in the Haynes manual about the oil pump, how the hell do I aligned it without the front cover on?

Thank you everyone for your help.

Wgc_3



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