Starting in the morning
#3
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I've got your problem too, the first morning start sucks, and then the rest of them are fine. From what I've heard on some other websites it's supposed to be an ignition problem. Try replacing the coil, along with the distributor cap and rotor, and maybe your plug wires. You could also go to a performance ignition system from MSD or something.
#7
There's not a 'cold start valve' on 300zx's. the 280z and zx's had a 'cold start injector' which our car's don't have though. This could be what others are referring to as the 'cold start valve'.
You do have an air regulator though, which is supposed to help with cold starts. Your cylinder head temp sensor could also be a culprit. you can check the ohms on either of them, or try running the engine codes and see if it calls out either of these.
the air regulator is on the passenger side of the upper intake plenum, toward the rear between the egr solenoid and the pcv valve. it has a 2-wire connector going to it.
the chts is behind the timing belt cover backplate, below the distributor. it's a royal pain to get to, but you should easily be able to disconnect it's subharness from the main harness in order to check the ohms on it. the connection to the main harness should be near the #1 spark plug - it's a black squarish connector with 2 wires.
You do have an air regulator though, which is supposed to help with cold starts. Your cylinder head temp sensor could also be a culprit. you can check the ohms on either of them, or try running the engine codes and see if it calls out either of these.
the air regulator is on the passenger side of the upper intake plenum, toward the rear between the egr solenoid and the pcv valve. it has a 2-wire connector going to it.
the chts is behind the timing belt cover backplate, below the distributor. it's a royal pain to get to, but you should easily be able to disconnect it's subharness from the main harness in order to check the ohms on it. the connection to the main harness should be near the #1 spark plug - it's a black squarish connector with 2 wires.
#9
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The air regulator uses a heater and bimetallic strip. The heater is undersized, so it will typically outlast the bushing that the air vane rotates upon. If it electrically checks out ok, and the car still has cold start problems, its probaby the air vane bushing sticking or worn out. You can remove the air regulator when the car is cold, and check the position of the air vane to be sure rather than just ordering a new one.
I have tried to clean them, but with little success in a long term fix. As they are around $180 from Nissan, I'm trying to find an alternative replacement. Supposedly some BMW models will work, and they are about $40, but I don't know which one.
Thanks
Ron
I have tried to clean them, but with little success in a long term fix. As they are around $180 from Nissan, I'm trying to find an alternative replacement. Supposedly some BMW models will work, and they are about $40, but I don't know which one.
Thanks
Ron
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08-29-2001 08:34 AM
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