Just got back from the CA smog test only shop... man, this Z faild really bad. As bad as a RX7 LOL. Now it's a GP (gross polluter), I did the oil change, tune up, cleaned the KNN air filter, checked the timing, and so on...

15 mph.......Max....Meas......25 mph.....Max....Meas
HC (PPM)....112....176.......................86...... 99
CO %........(.72...(.94......................(.60.... (.88
NO (PPM)....778.....2334....................717....22 71

Soooo... do I start with a catalytic converter? EGR?
BTW 1987 300zx Turbo with JDM motor, I put less than 2K on. Any CA smog tec on ZDriver... Thanks

 

Just move to Oklahoma. You can do whatever the hell you want to your car here.

Oh, I dont think jdm engines are designed to pass emissions in the states.

 

Your HC & CO levels aren't that far over. Retarding the timing a lil should fix that. The NOx may be an EGR prob. You could also run some GOOD fuel treatment through a tank of gas. Did you replace the plugs in the tune up? NGK's only...

 

I was told it was a JDM motor... I know it came from World Engine USA out of San Francisco CA...

 

a n d ? ? ?

 

Yes the only plugs I run is NGK and less than 2K on them. I'll run a fuel cleaner, and the EGR??? Okay I'll take the egr off and clean it, check to see if it opens, but how do I check to see if the car (ecu) opens the egr? What about boost??? Does less boost = less NO PPM?

Edit: Can't do the timing because of smog, and they check for that.

 

screw smog, slip the guy $200 and call it good or you can do what i did and found a smogless county in california and have family living their...

 

It's hard to find a test only that will do that...

 

Run the snot out of it for about 30 minutes prior to testing. What you're looking for is high rpms and pulling hard to get the catalytic converter white hot. The hotter it is the more nasty stuff it will burn as the exhaust gasses pass through. A cold cat is worthless. Get it hot. This takes some planning as you should be able to drive directly into the test bay. Sitting in the parking lot for an extended period of time will negate all that preheating.

I feel extremely lucky living here in NC. Anything '95 or older just gets a visual check to make sure the smog components are still in place. No sniffer up the pipes for the older autos. '96 and newer use the OBD II to test. Just plug and go.

I heard that if the "Terminator" has his way, the engines in The People's Republic of Kalifornia will exhaust cleaner air than they intake. All vehicles will become mobile air purifiers.

 

Yeah, I had to wait over an hour to get hooked up, but with the NO PPM that high, I don't think that would of helped... LOL

 

Does such a county still exist in CA? AZ really isn't that far away now is it?

 

Only a hand full of zip codes don't need smog in CA

 

Now if only I lived in one of them.

 

you said you were moving, the cars over 20 years old and shouldnt need to be smogged again (unless theres a technical problems between OR and CA) and isnt a o2 sensor ~$20 at cost at shucks?

i rember buying one for my maxima and it cost about that much when i worked at the lube shop and got things at a discount

 

Ensure timing is stock, run the lowest octane fuel you can get away with, drive a minimum of 20 minutes on the highway to get everything heated up, toss in a bottle of the "Guaranteed to pass" fuel treatment, try using a paper air filter, as the oil on a K&N can foul a mafs & cause it to run rich, clean your mafs with electric contact cleaner & try again.

 

I did clean the MAF just a week ago, I checked the timing, it was off 5%. I drove the Z for 10-15 min and didn't turn it off. Got in less than 5 mins.

Yes I'm moving to OR, and need to sell all things that not practical, like a 2 seater car , (the Z) boat, Harley, RC Heli, RC Plane, and so on. After I get up to OR, I'll get a Z32 2+2.


Okay, so I got a new catalytic converter today, took off the rod for the waste gate and now I have less than 2 psi of boost. Found out I have a N/A motor. The egr works but I need to check to see if it's clean. So I took it back for smog, and FAIL. Here are the new #

15 mph....Max....Meas....25 mph....Max....Meas
HC..........112....115....................86...... 65
CO..........0.72...0.26...................0.60.... 0.11
No..........778.....1026..................717....2 53
.............FAIL... ...................PASS

 

What the fuh??? You took off the wastegate rod????

 

Yeah, a N/A motor + boost = high NOX
Look at the NO before 2200+ and after 1026, I passed all but 2 parts of the 15 mph.
Sooooooo, can I put something in the gas that WILL help???

 

Again... What the fuh?! You have a TURBO motor right? Why are you calling it an n/a motor? And the car SHOULD NOT be boosting on the 25mph emissions test anyway, there's no need to remove the wastegate rod. Unless they are putting your car on an emissions dyno roller and they have to FULL THROTTLE it to get it to 25mph, the car won't be boosting. If they are running it at full throttle, then it's no mystery why it won't pass.

You need to learn how turbochargers work. Read this book:

 

as far as nox run it hard like everyone said drive to the smog place don't shut it off have them put a fan on it and take it first thing in the morning know anywhere with more dense air close by that helps nox a lot....

 

NO, I found out the motor is a VG30E (pass side back of motor), non turbo, from what I found out, the motor is from a FWD car. The dip stick tube was at the front of the motor, like a front sump.
I know how turbo works, but turbo doesn't just work under "FULL THROTTLE ". I works under loads to, so as the car is on the dyno, at 15mph the boost starts to work. If you have a turbo car, take it for a ride, get the R's up a little (1500-2000), hold the brakes some, and maintain your speed, and watch the boost go up. At least on my Z it does.

And for the air, it was raining at 42f out. I ran the Z as hard as I could (in the city), left it running the 10 mins, before he got it in, he ran it on the dyno before the smog test to help warm it up and then ran the test, and guess what................ FAIL

 

does your plenum say Turbo 3000 on it?

 

Yes the plenum says Turbo 3000, and yes it has turbo injectors(two fuel line per.) Yes the vin is jn1cz14s7hxxxxxxx C = turbo, right???

 

Sorry... I've never driven a turbo car. (all those cars in my sig are imaginary).

So either you have a turbo motor, or they swapped plenum plates to match (which if I remember correctly, FWD VG30's have slightly diff plenum covers than RWD VG30's). How do you know they swapped in a FWD VG30? Do you have documentation? Not that it even matters, because that alone is not the reason the motor won't pass.

 

Yeah I know, Okay, I got the Z for $600 with 2 motors, 1 bad, 1 good... and no tranny all out of the car. So I found a B/W tranny, put the good motor together, put it in my 510 for two days, I looked at the Z long and hard for the two days... That was it, I had to put the heart beat in the Z and make her purrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, well I found out that it doesn't purr, it straight grrrrrrrrrowls. This is 2nd fastest car I have ever had, and the best car to drive, more fun then the 04 SRT Neon. BTY my #1 fastest car was a 1970 Dodge Charger with a 440 Highway Patrol 600hp/ 650 torque. Okay, okay, so the oil pan that came with the new eng had a front oil pick, so I put the rear pick up on it and all so had to take out the dip stick tube from the front of the motor. Now the motor is in and running GREAT with 13psi of boost. I failed smog with supper high NO, and a friend said that I shoud check the egr, and I did, it worked just fine. So then he said that if I was putting boost on a non turbo motor that would make the NO high... I took off the waste gate rod, and got close.

Sooooooooooooo, is there something I can do or use to get both the HC & NO down...??? I need my Z to pass smog so I get the reg in my name... or damn it, I'll put in back in 510 LOL