motor help/questions.... N/A block vs turbo
#1
motor help/questions.... N/A block vs turbo
ok so this may be a typical question and i obviously know the compresion is diff.... but is anything else? or is the block and everything identical except compression? i ask this is because im restoring a shiro that was left outside for 14yrs.... the top half of the motor along with turbo is all in the trunk and looks new....... but the bottom half has been under the hood sitting..... and i know it would need lots of machining if it were to get running condition again..... but we have a great running NA thats been in a accident (in rear... tottaled) and i was wondering if we could use the N/A block on the stock turbo head.....
#2
#3
Do it
The NA motor is a higher compression ratio, so with the stock turbo gear will bolted to your NA no problem, you will have just a little more HP bump from the diff in compression. Many an NA has been converted to turbo with no issues. I'm currently looking for a Turbo parts car to upgrade my NA.
#4
The NA motor is a higher compression ratio, so with the stock turbo gear will bolted to your NA no problem, you will have just a little more HP bump from the diff in compression. Many an NA has been converted to turbo with no issues. I'm currently looking for a Turbo parts car to upgrade my NA.
now that being said should i get some sort of fuel managment for it? i.e. megasquirt? and if i need that since im doing that should i just upgrade injectors and fuel pump? the plan is for the car to be running somewhere around 10-12lbs MAX...
#5
Heads
There is no reason to change the heads on the NA motor. Pull the NA out of the donor, do a timing belt / water pump change. Then assemble the engine on a stand..manifolds, turbo etc. Unless you plan on doing a street racer, I think you will be happy with a near stock setup. If you really want to build a killer motor to drop in, then I'd do a lot more reading and research or find someone you trust to do it. I'd think the more desirable way to go, would be a restoration. Then you would want to use the old block if you want a numbers matching car. Getting a Shiro back to newish condition from where yours is now will be expensive, but would make the car more desirable to a collector or enthusiast.
#6
There is no reason to change the heads on the NA motor. Pull the NA out of the donor, do a timing belt / water pump change. Then assemble the engine on a stand..manifolds, turbo etc. Unless you plan on doing a street racer, I think you will be happy with a near stock setup. If you really want to build a killer motor to drop in, then I'd do a lot more reading and research or find someone you trust to do it. I'd think the more desirable way to go, would be a restoration. Then you would want to use the old block if you want a numbers matching car. Getting a Shiro back to newish condition from where yours is now will be expensive, but would make the car more desirable to a collector or enthusiast.
also we are gona have 2 "teams" if you will working on the car..... my buddy works at a performance shop so all the motor is going there and me and him are gona work on it there while me and my uncle (dads brother) are gona be working on the the body.... and geting it preped for paint.. my uncle has done this a couple times before so he knows what hes doing....
what im trying to get it is im gona do mostly all the body except for the actuall painting.. are there any problem rust areas to look for? i live in orlando florida... so we dont really see much salt on the roads lol but a lot of rain.....like are there any panels that are prone to rust? its been sitting in the hot florida sun for 14 yrs..... the interior is shockingly not bad and the dash is pretty much flwless
#7
z rust
Some typical spots are around the rear hatch, moisture gets trapped around the seals and just sits there.Spare tire well, it can fill with water if your hatch leaked. Cowl panels under hood, passenger side has a slight depression that holds water.(good places to dry with a towel when you wash the car) Z31's don't rust out like the earlier cars, but since it was sitting for so long I'd pull the seats and carpet up and clean it all out, make sure its all rot free and then reassemble.
#9
STEP 1
This site has a lot of very good and helpful info. He did the turbo converson on his N/A and found a few different things. Reed up on it and it should help save you a lot of time and money. Good luck with everything. Im just starting on doing somebody work to waterproof the trunk hatch.
This site has a lot of very good and helpful info. He did the turbo converson on his N/A and found a few different things. Reed up on it and it should help save you a lot of time and money. Good luck with everything. Im just starting on doing somebody work to waterproof the trunk hatch.
if you have some pics of you doing hatch work it would be much appreciated.
#10
Some typical spots are around the rear hatch, moisture gets trapped around the seals and just sits there.Spare tire well, it can fill with water if your hatch leaked. Cowl panels under hood, passenger side has a slight depression that holds water.(good places to dry with a towel when you wash the car) Z31's don't rust out like the earlier cars, but since it was sitting for so long I'd pull the seats and carpet up and clean it all out, make sure its all rot free and then reassemble.
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