U-Joints for z31
#1
U-Joints for z31
I have an 86 NA automatic and the u-joints need to be replaced. I know the U-joints are none servicable and the dealer procedure is to replace the drive shaft entirely. I found a machine shop that will press new u-joints into my drive shaft. What servicable u-joints should I buy? Also if I have them pressed in, does the shop need to balance the drive shaft again?
#2
I replaced my '86na drive shaft about 2 years ago. U-joint was worn out, clunking at every shift. Nissan OEM wanted $600 for a new shaft. I found a new aftermarket one from a place on Long Island NY for $115. Forget how it was shipped but didn't cost that much (40 miles). They also warrantied it for fit and balance. Went on in 30 mins, balance and fit were perfect.
If your repair guys are gonna charge you more than that for just the new joint installation, you should look into replacing the whole shaft with an aftermarket. If you go with the repair guys and they are good, they should definitely have a way to test the reassembled shaft for balance before putting it on.
Whole shaft replacement is pretty easy mechanically if you have a couple of good lifts - or access to a pro's whole-car lift. So let us know what you do with this. We really like the feedback here. Thanks.
If your repair guys are gonna charge you more than that for just the new joint installation, you should look into replacing the whole shaft with an aftermarket. If you go with the repair guys and they are good, they should definitely have a way to test the reassembled shaft for balance before putting it on.
Whole shaft replacement is pretty easy mechanically if you have a couple of good lifts - or access to a pro's whole-car lift. So let us know what you do with this. We really like the feedback here. Thanks.
#3
There are a few thread about doing exactly that
Ill try and find and post a link to your question. read this entire link, they are replacable and doable if you have a bench vise.
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...ce-axle-35017/
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...ce-axle-35017/
#4
Thanks for the replies! I did find an aftermarket drive shaft online for $384. It's already balanced and is also warrantied. Here's the link:1986 Nissan 300zx Drive Shaft - Nissan 300zx Driveline - Free Shipping
Do you think these shafts are legit? I would love just to put a new shaft in and forget about pressing new u joints in. The shop I went to said they couldn't balance the shaft so buying a new aftermarket shaft is my easiest option so far.
My shaft need to be replaced really bad. In Reverse is squeaks a lot and in roughly first gear [its an auto] it squeaks alot too. It also makes a clunk noise when going from neutral to drive or reverse.
Do you think these shafts are legit? I would love just to put a new shaft in and forget about pressing new u joints in. The shop I went to said they couldn't balance the shaft so buying a new aftermarket shaft is my easiest option so far.
My shaft need to be replaced really bad. In Reverse is squeaks a lot and in roughly first gear [its an auto] it squeaks alot too. It also makes a clunk noise when going from neutral to drive or reverse.
#6
That looks like your place. They offer to match lots of cars, appear legitimate enough and offer 1-yr warranty and free shipping. The only cheaper way is a used shaft from a wrecker/recycler near you. They (salvaged shafts) are definitely available and run from $50 to $150 - and may or may not come with a warranty. I found a half dozen within an hour from me.
Your call now. From what you describe, it's definitely your shaft that needs replacing. Did you compare this new shaft price with the joint replacement work those other guys offered you, parts and labor? You get to make the call now.
Your call now. From what you describe, it's definitely your shaft that needs replacing. Did you compare this new shaft price with the joint replacement work those other guys offered you, parts and labor? You get to make the call now.
#7
Well I took the easy way out and ordered a new drive shaft. When it's all said and done the price to buy new u-joints, have them pressed in, and have the shaft balanced was close to just buying the new one. Plus the convenece factor of just having a new one shipped to my house. Got to love free shipping! Maybe nect time around I'll look into doing something custom.
I'll let you all know how the shaft swap goes.
Thanks for the help!
I'll let you all know how the shaft swap goes.
Thanks for the help!
#9
Update:
So today the drive shaft arrived in the mail. The surprising thing about the drive shaft was it has greaseable u-joints! So, so far this seems like a good buy. The only down side to this drive shaft is the paint on it is peeling off. It looks like they used a water based latex paint. No buggy. A little automotive/metal primer and paint and it look good as new.
So today the drive shaft arrived in the mail. The surprising thing about the drive shaft was it has greaseable u-joints! So, so far this seems like a good buy. The only down side to this drive shaft is the paint on it is peeling off. It looks like they used a water based latex paint. No buggy. A little automotive/metal primer and paint and it look good as new.
#11
Update:
So I finished installing the drive shaft this morning. The new drive shaft is thinner than the old so it made slipping it into place easier, especially since I left the cat on. [The cat is rusted on so I didn't bother removing it]. My z purzz and no longer squeaks when at low speeds in forward or reverse. Also, there is no clunk sound when shifting from R to D or vice versa.
Thanks guys for all the help! She was a blast to drive on Kelly Drive [very curvy scretch of famous road], Philadelphia.
So I finished installing the drive shaft this morning. The new drive shaft is thinner than the old so it made slipping it into place easier, especially since I left the cat on. [The cat is rusted on so I didn't bother removing it]. My z purzz and no longer squeaks when at low speeds in forward or reverse. Also, there is no clunk sound when shifting from R to D or vice versa.
Thanks guys for all the help! She was a blast to drive on Kelly Drive [very curvy scretch of famous road], Philadelphia.
#13
I have brand new Eibach pro kit springs, Bilstein HD monotube shocks, and Falken tires. It's a decent street set up. I would like some larger sway bars though, new bushings, and a strut bar. That would smooth things out around turns. In the future, 17 in wheels with a decent tire would be nice too.
#17
Here she is! She would normally be silver in color, but I decided to Plasti dip her in white. I did a lot of body work to her, so she had patches of gray primer every where. Everytime I pull and replace something in the engine bay is gets degreased, paint, and put back in. She rests on Eibach pro kit springs with Bilstein HD shocks. New upper mounts and polyurethane bushings. Stock Falken tires and stock wheels. Entirely new fuel and ignition system. [just stock replacements]. She is the GLL and everything electronic works except for the compass and acceleration dials. [soon to be fixed]. New sound system i.e. head unit and four speakers. Obviously new drive shaft with u-joints. New master brake cylinder and EBC brake pads, new rotors. The EBC pads are giving me trouble btw. So yeah I still a tons more to fix.
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