Anyone ever deal with www.nismoparts.com ? There are some products on there that I am seriously considering buying and I would like some input. Thanks

 

Nope. What parts?

friggin' 60 second rule...why do we have that?

 

The tails that are all clear, JDM center panel, and front clear corners. Just wondering if it is quality product or not. It is in Rizz's link page so I'm guessing its decent?

 

As to the quality of the Nismo pieces, as long as they are REAL Nismo pieces, their quality is great. I have the Nismo Clear corners, Rear light panels, Middle light panel, third brake light, Nismo radiator cap, and Nismo Fuel pressure regulator on my car. Every piece I have installed myself, and I have been happy ever since. The only thing is, with those lights you need to replace those bulbs and put US spec ones in. We were discussing this issue on another post a few weeks ago. The only real problem w Nismo stuff is that they are expensive. I ve bought all my Nismo stuff either from Z1 or Scott Evans Nissan in Carrolton, Ga. I dunno if you can find it cheaper elsewhere, but then you are dealin with damage or theft during shippin. There are a few tricks when puttin in some Nismo pieces. The tail lights for example suck, b/c you have to clean the tar crap off you car before reinstalling the new lights WITH MORE TAR. This stuff seals it good, it is just a mess to clean. With the Nismo FPR, I had to borrow a friends Fuel pressure tester and dial in the fuel pressure. It was set for a Skyline,and I put it on my NA.

 

LOL hey Y nto keep the Skyline preasure? hell alota boom boom but kool Boom boom . [just thought I'd be stupid ]

 

Nah u should have seen it on the dyno. My old FPR went nuts and it started runnin way too rich. Lightspeed was there with me. At about 4500 or so, it started blowin black smoke like crazy. It was runnin way too rich at the time. I have yet to throw it back on the dyno.

 

wow, you actually made sense outta what bardabeee typed.

 

With Bardabe, it's kinda like the playing the weekly word jumble in the newspaper. Sometimes I can get it, sometimes I can't.

 

I dunno if anyone has ordered from them at all.
I actually just looked at the site just now. I definitely haven't looked at it in a while. Their prices are INSANELY low. I'm almost wondering if they're actually legit! That's how cheap their prices are. If they are for real, i don't see why I haven't heard that site mentioned more often.

 

I think I heard from sources on 300zxclub.com that their shipping is insanley high. Hmm ghetto... :doh:

 

It was the FPR that was doing that? How'd you figger that out? Good catch!

 

well U guy's know what... their prizes are pretty low!!! JDM front bumper from 550$ - like 250$!!! what's the catch tho???

 

thats just the bumper. you also need all the mounting stuff to put it on, and that brings the price up.

 

I got tired of it doing that so I sat down with my service manual at school for about a week with the car there. And me and my buddies went through each system one by one. There is still a problem thought, I cant figure out. It still wants to hunt a bit. But I have some other tests to run before I get annoyed. I been to busy workin on the TT to get back to workin on the NA. I though I had a fuel problem, b/c me fuel pump got noticably louder. Then whenever I would stop hard and fast, the car would shut off. I thought ummm ok, FUEL. We hooked a fuel pressure tester up to it, and it was like 20 lbs to high. Then, when ever you would let it idle the needle would start bouncing all over the place. More than what the manual called for as acceptable. So I squeezed my pennies and bought a NISMO FPR and a new fuel damper. That problem with the fuel pump is the same though. But It has stopped the cuttin off when i stop. I ll let you know if I find out more.

 

I've read about these cars wanting to die on hard breaking and some have been able to link it back to a weak charging system. The ABS pulls pretty hard on the battery. Check your grounds, alternator and battery. If you haven't done so yet, look into getting a grounding net.

 

I know i may be askin a stupid question but what is a grounding net? Is that the same thing as the Circle Earth grounding system or like Stillens. I have been havin alternator problems though. I just replaced it a few months ago. i am runnin a sound system so that is pullin too. i need to buy a capacitor for it to lighten the load. I also know the battery is about three years old, so it sould be about to crap out on me. I ll get an optima red top if it does, I ve heard alot of good reviews about em. Any one know of any high performance alternators. I put a TT one on there last time (factory nissan), but this time it was a NA alternator. I know it probably isnt good, but since u mention chargin problem. I am runnin a UR underdrive kit. LOL!

 

Precisely. Most folks seem to build their own. I just built one for mine, and unless they are over 50$, I'd say buy it. I spent a LOT of time trying to shoehorn the wires, and the connectors were very hard to find. I had to settle for some aluminum connectors.

 

I believe Stillen sells theirs for $120 or so. The grounding kit increases the # of grounds in the system. This allows all of those electronic components under the hood to work more quickly and precisely. I made mine in about an hour. For $50, I'll make you one and ship it out to you. I can duplicate mine. I use red, 8 gauge wire. I use copper ring terminals at the battery and your everyday ring terminals on the other ends. It's 2, 2 into 1 grounding cables. You will have 4 additional grounding points on the engine.


Tell me about your stereo system? How much power do you have driving your subs? How many subs? The Nissan alternator is usually fine. That's not your problem. I don't have a huge system (8 speakers, 1 sub, 400 watts) and I haven't had any problems. You don't need the Optima battery. You need to find your electrical problem. It is probably realted to your hesitation below 2500 RPM's.

 

I am runnig four Infinity Coax components in stock locations. 6.5s all around. I eliminated the BOSE b/c the kid that had it before me tried to replace it and didnt know how. I am running a single Kenwood 1200 watt 5 channel amp feedin to all speakers. The subs are two JL audio 10w0s mounted in the spair tire well. These are wired parallel, i am considering bridgin the two on a single circuit. The head unit is a sony piece. There is a distribution block under the panel behind the passengers head. And it is running 0 gauge monster cable from the battery w an inline fuse mounted about 6'' on the passenger fender well. That everything major, if you want any more specifics like mounting points or gauge wire. Then I will need to go measure it on the car. Like I mentioned earlier, I am in the works of getting a capacitor and some three way components w cross overs for better sound.

 

But what about the Underdrive kit, u think that has anything to do with it? Lightspeed has seen my set up a few times, I need to post some pics of my box. It is built into the spare tire well, Benefits are that i dont have large boxes to take up trunk space. Disadvantages are that I no longer have a spare tire, but w me runnin 18" it wouldnt help me anyway.

 

Lots of question marks WFLZ - here's my thoughts.

Batteries

I had two optima's in my Jeep and am on a personal crusade against them. Basically if you drive it enough to keep it completely charged they are great. You can’t beat about 1200-1500CCA which you CAN get from one of them. But if you let them discharge, which I found they have a tendency to do if you let them sit for a couple of weeks, they simply won’t hold a charge after that. I have had more than one conversation directly with Optima regarding that issue. After my second one failed, I finally gave up and went back to lead acid.

Indeed batteries do go bad – you can easily test it at your local parts store. Take it to them fully charged, through. Otherwise it will test to be . . . miraculously . . . bad!


Alternator

Could you be a bit more descriptive about your alternator problem?
You may be overdrawing your alternator with your stereo, but a quick check would be to fuse it for say 15-20amps and seeing if it blows. Or you could use a VOM and measure the actual current draw with the volume turned up.

Now, alternators go bad it you really are sucking the current from them. Adding a very large capacitor will typically only compound the problem. Think of it - if the cap is discharged, it is a dead short on the alternator when you crank it up. (A kiss of death unless you have some resistance in the cap circuit, which defeats the purpose of the cap.) Yes, it will make for a more stable voltage for the stereo when you crank up the bass on some rap, but that energy has to come from some where - you guessed it, your alternator. Caps were made primarily to help stereos, not alternators.

Sorry, lots of words, but if you start going above 500w of stereo power, you might want to get pretty serious about finding a high current alternator. The UD pulleys reduce the effective rotations on the alternator by about 10-15%. The voltage regulator will ensure that the output is adequate. BUT, by reducing the rotational velocity on the rotor and demanding the same voltage, you will by definition increase the current through the windings, and hence, increase fatigue on the alternator. Add to that a dramatic increase in demand on the ciruit with a 1000w stereo and you will be replacing it pretty regularly.

 

ok, i think i am gonna ditch the underdrive pulley and throw it on the TT. it doesnt even have the factory sound system, so I wont worry then. That and I all some HP to the car. I ll just take tha factory crank pulley and put in on my N/a motor

 

Yeah, basically you will struggle if you really try to push your engine performance and having Godzilla for a sound system. Unless you find a high output alternator that was designed for low RPM operation.

I expect that there may be some opinion with aftermarket options in the alternator dept.

I'd rather just go fast.

 

Here is pic of the set up i have from the rear of the car. It was taken at a local car show in Carrolton, Ga. There is a cover that fits over the subs so i can put stuff into the trunk w/out damagin them

You'll have to click on them to see them clearly