Steering wheel/quick disconnect
#3
Originally Posted by Aphrodite
Im sure it could be done yourself, if you have some patience and are a bit mechanically savvy... however they do say "professional installation recommended" for a reason I suppose...
#4
yes, airbags i definatly agree. and to answer the other question most real aftermarket steering wheels do stick out more, that way you cna skot wya back to get ur feet hte clearence adn you have the wheel closer in ur lap so you cna move ur hands fater its not like out of reach, better personal control. also y they disconnect so you can get in easier.
#5
A buddy of mine just installed a nice MOMO piece on his Z. With the spacer and all the brakettry it fits pretty close to stock. There might be some difference, but I cannot tell. I would like to do the quick disconnect steering wheel myself. But I wont consider it until I do my racing seats and 4 point harness. Then I ll consider removing the airbag.
#6
Originally Posted by napoleonzheking
I'm pretty sure it's so you don't blow the airbag in your face. And it seems like i remember reading something about if you put a non airbag wheel in your car, you have to rewire something to 'trick' the ECU into thinking that the airbag hasn't deployed, something about the check engine light being on, or the car not starting bc it thinks it's deployed or something, I don't know, I may of been dreaming when I read that.
Eh, didnt even consider the airbag since I have none
#8
Originally Posted by WhtFairLadyZ
A buddy of mine just installed a nice MOMO piece on his Z. With the spacer and all the brakettry it fits pretty close to stock. There might be some difference, but I cannot tell. I would like to do the quick disconnect steering wheel myself. But I wont consider it until I do my racing seats and 4 point harness. Then I ll consider removing the airbag.
Did it require any welding?
#10
how are you gonna mount that 4-point racing harness? cuase most people bolt it to the floor but thats apparently wrong. your supposed top have a roll cage that or at least a bar that spans the cars width at the same height as the seat the pass over. i guess when its lower and you stop hard or get in an accident when ur body slides forward instead of pulling against your chest to stop you they will then pull downward and actually cause spinal injuries. just somethign i felt i should and sorry for the off topic-ness.
#11
Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
how are you gonna mount that 4-point racing harness? cuase most people bolt it to the floor but thats apparently wrong. your supposed top have a roll cage that or at least a bar that spans the cars width at the same height as the seat the pass over. i guess when its lower and you stop hard or get in an accident when ur body slides forward instead of pulling against your chest to stop you they will then pull downward and actually cause spinal injuries. just somethign i felt i should and sorry for the off topic-ness.
I would think the only danger of downward motion is if the holes they pass through are in soft material so the belts would be able to move vertically instead of only pulling strait back
#12
I was planning on mpunting the lap belts to the two rear seat bolts and then strapping the shoulder harness belts to the rear strut tower bar. I ve seen alot of cars do it that way and it does not position the straps in that no mounting zone that everyone is talking about. I think it is like only 5 degrees of slope from the seat to rear strut tower brace.
#13
Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
how are you gonna mount that 4-point racing harness? cuase most people bolt it to the floor but thats apparently wrong. your supposed top have a roll cage that or at least a bar that spans the cars width at the same height as the seat the pass over. i guess when its lower and you stop hard or get in an accident when ur body slides forward instead of pulling against your chest to stop you they will then pull downward and actually cause spinal injuries. just somethign i felt i should and sorry for the off topic-ness.
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