1st ZX - 96 N/A 2+2 - pic & a few questions...
10-03-2006, 08:26 PM
#26
caught the z fever
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Lafayette, IN
Posts: 2,518
Originally Posted by SandW
I looked at the hood again today, it seems to be perfectly on their, and nothing is pushing it up from beneath the hood, such as the rubber stopper. In fact it's not touching either the rubber stop. In fact, there's about a 1/4" space all the way across the front of the hood where it doesn't mate-up to the rubber seal. I looked at the adjustement/attachment plates and it doesn't seem to be misplaced. You know how you can tell from the previous setting from seeing old dust lines--no marks like that. Maybe it is slightly bent on that side and I just can't tell?
Actually, email me if you want to help with the hood and I'll reply with about 6 or 7 200KB pics. I don't have the time to fumble with the picture additions now---I tried and will figure it out later. Not a web-head as you can tell. ;-)
either your hood needs to be adjusted from where it connects to your engine bay, or your radiator support is bent.
Originally Posted by wreckedj30
a/c clutch, never heard of one of those.
oh and put your compressor up on 3zc or tt.net. im sure someone will buy it
Last edited by b300z; 10-03-2006 at 08:31 PM.
10-03-2006, 08:31 PM
#27
No Club Love
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Mo Valley, So Cali
Posts: 1,518
oh, yeah my pops, says its inside the compressor, don't know since i haven't had one apart. yeah i know they don't work all the time cause, i'd be frozen, i just thought the electricity clicks on something the japs. made. I really need to go to school.
10-03-2006, 08:56 PM
#28
The Cake Is A Lie!
Join Date: May 2003
Location: WA
Posts: 5,690
Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
night rider was a camero
second, its camAro, not camero.
third, you got the wrong F-body. it was a 1982 Trans Am.
you werent even alive for knight rider. get off my lawn.
10-04-2006, 06:56 AM
#31
caught the z fever
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Lafayette, IN
Posts: 2,518
ha nice 
heres his pics.:.:.:.:.
what your pointing at is actually the hood switch. the rubber stops we are talking about are down by the headlights on each side. not sure if you knew that or if there was a misunderstanding, but i just wanted to point out
heres his pics.:.:.:.:.
what your pointing at is actually the hood switch. the rubber stops we are talking about are down by the headlights on each side. not sure if you knew that or if there was a misunderstanding, but i just wanted to point out
Last edited by b300z; 10-04-2006 at 07:02 AM.
10-04-2006, 08:06 AM
#34
Über User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: lemont, Illinois
Posts: 9,532
my car had that...i could NOT get rid of it...perfectly like that...i tryied loosening and then lowering the latch on the core support...that helped a bit...lowering the bump stops...a bit again, but developed a squeek.....it might jsut be somehting there for ever, and that is a shiny paint job i hope you reconsider painting the car becuase its clean. and you def need a gas cap door lol.
10-04-2006, 02:16 PM
#36
Encyclopedic Knowledge
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 3,316
It's likely the rubber cushions that it sits on (previously mentioned). Turn the driver's side one counterclockwise a few turns and try it.
And for the record, since no one has explained why there was a compressor change, Nissan was forced to switch compressors to the 95+ one due to government regulations that forced the switch from R12 to R134a (a lovely switch, especially considering R12 blows colder and it has been proven that R134a is NOT safer for the environment as expected... thank you Bill Clinton).
And seriously, take the car to Ultimate Z... they charge all of $0.00 to diagnose problems provided no disassembly is required. They will tell you what's wrong with your AC and suspension from a test drive and from looking at it up on the rack. Done... no more effort required.
And for the record, since no one has explained why there was a compressor change, Nissan was forced to switch compressors to the 95+ one due to government regulations that forced the switch from R12 to R134a (a lovely switch, especially considering R12 blows colder and it has been proven that R134a is NOT safer for the environment as expected... thank you Bill Clinton).
And seriously, take the car to Ultimate Z... they charge all of $0.00 to diagnose problems provided no disassembly is required. They will tell you what's wrong with your AC and suspension from a test drive and from looking at it up on the rack. Done... no more effort required.
Last edited by ZLover4Life; 10-04-2006 at 02:30 PM.
10-11-2006, 07:44 AM
#39
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 459
Trials and tribulations of owning a new (old) car
1. The A/C on the 96/95 isn't so easy to check, to get at the O-rings it requires a bit of work. If you are taking the compressor out which you probably should do to check for compression . Do this by turning the pully on the front (along with the clutch) hold your finger over one of the two holes that the hoses went in and after a turn or two you will get either suction on your finger or the pressure will build under your fingertip. If that happens AND there are no grinding noises while you do it. It will get increasingly harder the more you turn as it should. then chances are pretty good your compressor is fine. There is 1 wire leading from the compressor to the relays just to the right of the engine bay on the drivers side wheel well, That is where the wire should go. Test that relay. That should be easy as when the engine is running you should hear a slight click come from the mag clutch on the front of the compressor when or if it engages. Next buy the O-rings from Nissan ( dealer is probably best as they carry them in stock!!) they should cost less then 2 dollars combined (2 of them) even if your local dealership is run by thieves. Replace the O-rings and reinstall the compressor, check the fuse and then have the system vacuum tested they will take it down to -30psi or so and let it sit for a few minutes (kind of a leak down test) before they fill up your system. It should only cost you about 100-199$ depending on how expensive they are. The leak down test is important as without it you will never know for sure if you have a slow leak.
2. The Rear view mirror. The day/night tab on the front is connected to a plastic strip that is oblong shaped inside the mirror, the lever action caused by the tab moving front to back twists the oblong strip and snaps the mirror into either the day or night position. That little oblong connecter breaks.. you cant fix it, they don't sell replacements. I mean why would they? a 30 cent piece can fix it when they can charge you 89.99$ for a brand new mirror. Go to junk yard and find another one.
3. The Hood. Go to a body shop and get that fixed. they will only bill you for 1 hour and they are really good at it. It will take you a lot longer to fix it yourself, but if you like learning experiences then by all means spend a couple days on that problem.
4. i have to agree with Zlover on the engine light thing....personally i wouldn't buy a car with the engine light on. But hey! that's me
check the codes. i bet its something like the knock sensor or more likely one of your O2 sensors is busted.
5. If you are looking for new replacement parts try the link page but be prepared to spend some money.
2. The Rear view mirror. The day/night tab on the front is connected to a plastic strip that is oblong shaped inside the mirror, the lever action caused by the tab moving front to back twists the oblong strip and snaps the mirror into either the day or night position. That little oblong connecter breaks.. you cant fix it, they don't sell replacements. I mean why would they? a 30 cent piece can fix it when they can charge you 89.99$ for a brand new mirror. Go to junk yard and find another one.
3. The Hood. Go to a body shop and get that fixed. they will only bill you for 1 hour and they are really good at it. It will take you a lot longer to fix it yourself, but if you like learning experiences then by all means spend a couple days on that problem.
4. i have to agree with Zlover on the engine light thing....personally i wouldn't buy a car with the engine light on. But hey! that's me
check the codes. i bet its something like the knock sensor or more likely one of your O2 sensors is busted.5. If you are looking for new replacement parts try the link page but be prepared to spend some money.
Last edited by Goofyz; 10-11-2006 at 07:47 AM.
10-11-2006, 08:08 AM
#40
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 40
I must admit, and am a little ashamed, that I actually like my Z better than my classic vettes. Leaving it black also. Even though black in general is common on cars, there aren't that many black Zs I see around here.
Thanks for your help. I body tech guy said the hood could be fixed by having one person hold the good side and having another tug down on the side that sticks up. I tried it by myself but not enough leverage. I thought about placing a 2x4 near the center propped on the engine and see if that works.
I tried loosening the latch. Funny thing is when I loosen all 3 bolts and close the hood it is flush, however when I tighten the bolts up again it goes back back. There is very little play in the holes of the hood latch. Like someone mentioned I could dremel the holes allowing the hood to close further down. As it is the hood doesn't touch either rubber hood stop. I don't have any squeaks as someone mentioned they got when jacking around with the hood stops.
I really think it due to the hood being propped up too long in storage or whatnot. If the tugging on it method doesn't work than I'll dremel the holes as a last resort. It's a real pain in the put to access those bolt heads on the latch!
later..
Thanks for your help. I body tech guy said the hood could be fixed by having one person hold the good side and having another tug down on the side that sticks up. I tried it by myself but not enough leverage. I thought about placing a 2x4 near the center propped on the engine and see if that works.
I tried loosening the latch. Funny thing is when I loosen all 3 bolts and close the hood it is flush, however when I tighten the bolts up again it goes back back. There is very little play in the holes of the hood latch. Like someone mentioned I could dremel the holes allowing the hood to close further down. As it is the hood doesn't touch either rubber hood stop. I don't have any squeaks as someone mentioned they got when jacking around with the hood stops.
I really think it due to the hood being propped up too long in storage or whatnot. If the tugging on it method doesn't work than I'll dremel the holes as a last resort. It's a real pain in the put to access those bolt heads on the latch!
later..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Bookmarks
