7 psi ?!!!
08-27-2010, 10:41 AM
#1
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7 psi ?!!!
I just hooked myself up with an autogauge boost gauge.. and the problem is when i was suspecting that im overboosting ~13 psi on stock prog(on stock gauge) that aftermarket gauge showed ~0.5 bar <=> about 7 psi
I guess im in safety mode :`( i think the car has been in safety mode since i bought it and the issue with ECU diagnostic frustrates me and the codes and all these stuff..
Anyway i will soon get the car to stage 3 and see if it stays 7 psi then it sure is in safety mode and not a boost leak:S\
EDIT: I made my thorough research and knew how to check the codes i will be checking them tomorrow and i will keep you guys updated hopefully this would be over soon.
I guess im in safety mode :`( i think the car has been in safety mode since i bought it and the issue with ECU diagnostic frustrates me and the codes and all these stuff..
Anyway i will soon get the car to stage 3 and see if it stays 7 psi then it sure is in safety mode and not a boost leak:S\
EDIT: I made my thorough research and knew how to check the codes i will be checking them tomorrow and i will keep you guys updated hopefully this would be over soon.
Last edited by Sam; 08-27-2010 at 03:10 PM.
08-27-2010, 05:29 PM
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heheheh yea :P and remember when i told you "the best shop in Lebanon" that i wanted to get a K&N filter from? , i called them to see if they can install the boost gauge , they didnt know how!! actually many don't know..
so i installed it myself
no drilling and no modifications 
however i know its a silly thing .. but well .. its my first DIY..
so i installed it myself
no drilling and no modifications however i know its a silly thing .. but well .. its my first DIY..
Last edited by Sam; 08-27-2010 at 05:36 PM.
08-27-2010, 07:24 PM
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One day you'll realize that all "professional" means is that they get paid to do something. I'd say that, in general, you are capable of doing anything a professional can, it just might take you more time to do it. But at the same time, as long as you value your car, you can do a better job because you value your car... the shop doesn't give a damn about it.
08-28-2010, 01:39 AM
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UPDATE: 1) Okay, so i checked the codes.. the odd thing is that in the "how-to" they say "first turn the screw fully clockwise", and it was already turned fully clockwise so i couldnt see the led light.. so i turned it counter-clockwise and waited 2 minutes and then repeated the process with success, now my check engine light comes on when i turn my key to ACC and turns off when i start the car however it didnt before!!!(i've never seen it)..
2) Anyway the ECU threw me code 34 as i expected :S
during my research i found that its a PITA... and i dont like the 1M resistor trick.. neither the relocation and no budget for engine pull.
3)So i was reading this article on how to check the wiring harness of the detonation sensor connector that goes to the ecu and the ones that go to the detonation sensor (by Henri Le Hir) however it is not mentioned if this is done when the car is running or not !
4)Plus, they say " One of the wire going to the ECU should be connected to the "ground" of the engine. -the second wire going to the ecu should have about 500K Ohm resistance.." what about the first wire's resistance?
Same thing for the wires going to the detonation sensor one should display 1 meg ohm resistance and what about the other ?
Here's the article:
http://www.mdsmarthome.com/z/Z%20Tec...n%20Sensor.pdf
It's really disappointing how my dream car keeps on showing issues..
Sorry it was a long post btw
2) Anyway the ECU threw me code 34 as i expected :S
during my research i found that its a PITA... and i dont like the 1M resistor trick.. neither the relocation and no budget for engine pull.
3)So i was reading this article on how to check the wiring harness of the detonation sensor connector that goes to the ecu and the ones that go to the detonation sensor (by Henri Le Hir) however it is not mentioned if this is done when the car is running or not !
4)Plus, they say " One of the wire going to the ECU should be connected to the "ground" of the engine. -the second wire going to the ecu should have about 500K Ohm resistance.." what about the first wire's resistance?
Same thing for the wires going to the detonation sensor one should display 1 meg ohm resistance and what about the other ?
Here's the article:
http://www.mdsmarthome.com/z/Z%20Tec...n%20Sensor.pdf
It's really disappointing how my dream car keeps on showing issues..
Sorry it was a long post btw
Last edited by Sam; 08-28-2010 at 10:40 AM.
08-28-2010, 11:38 AM
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... grounds shouldn't have resistance...
When you have an electrical circuit, they generally try to install a single resistor in the circuit to bring power levels down to where they need it... they don't install them on the ground side.
When you have an electrical circuit, they generally try to install a single resistor in the circuit to bring power levels down to where they need it... they don't install them on the ground side.
08-28-2010, 11:51 AM
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I know but they say they are not grounded ! they say one of the wire should be connected to the ground of the engine; on any metallic part of intake manifold
In simple barney-style words.. i put the red wire of the multimeter on the first wire going to the ecu and the black wire of the multimeter on any metallic place on the intake manifold ? and then repeat the process for the second wire which is also going to the ecu that should read 500K ohm correct?
im sorry but i don't want to mess everything up.
You didnt tell me if the process should be done while the car is running or not..
TIA
In simple barney-style words.. i put the red wire of the multimeter on the first wire going to the ecu and the black wire of the multimeter on any metallic place on the intake manifold ? and then repeat the process for the second wire which is also going to the ecu that should read 500K ohm correct?
im sorry but i don't want to mess everything up.
You didnt tell me if the process should be done while the car is running or not..
TIA
08-28-2010, 12:00 PM
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That's because I've never done that process, so I don't know.
Just bypass it, don't bother testing. The detonation sensor is only active below 3000rpm anyway (there's too much engine noise above 3000rpm, so the ECU is programmed to ignore it above that point because it would get faulty warnings all the time), and detonation below 3000rpm would only happen if you have a problem that you'd be able to tell on your own. (You'd pretty much have to try to boost with 87 octane fuel, or your timing would be so bad that the car ran horribly, etc.)
I know I've told you a billion times, but I'm telling you again - familiarize yourself with TwinTurbo.NET, because the answers are already in documents over there.
Chances are, the harness between that connector and the sensor is bad, and you can't replace that without major surgery.
Just bypass it, don't bother testing. The detonation sensor is only active below 3000rpm anyway (there's too much engine noise above 3000rpm, so the ECU is programmed to ignore it above that point because it would get faulty warnings all the time), and detonation below 3000rpm would only happen if you have a problem that you'd be able to tell on your own. (You'd pretty much have to try to boost with 87 octane fuel, or your timing would be so bad that the car ran horribly, etc.)
I know I've told you a billion times, but I'm telling you again - familiarize yourself with TwinTurbo.NET, because the answers are already in documents over there.
Chances are, the harness between that connector and the sensor is bad, and you can't replace that without major surgery.
08-28-2010, 02:02 PM
#10
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Can you get me a picture of this connector coming off the passenger wastegate solenoid? this would really help because i've googled it & searched hours however i'm exhausted, frustrated and couldn't find it so please help me out with this one.
I know it wont take you a second.
08-28-2010, 03:54 PM
#11
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is this the right connector ? http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/tech/blitz/blitz.htm (it is in the last pics)
08-28-2010, 04:44 PM
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08-29-2010, 06:00 AM
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08-29-2010, 10:41 AM
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Head gasket blew while I was in grad school and I could afford to fix it. Traded the rolling chassis for this + cash, and then I sold the engine and turbos for the money I needed to get it running.
08-30-2010, 11:05 AM
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The parts I still have will go on my next Z32.
GT2530 turbos went for $1800, downpipes for $75 + an ECU for an L28ET, block for a few hundred (one of the rods snapped, so I just sold the block), I think I sold the heads for about $160.
GT2530 turbos went for $1800, downpipes for $75 + an ECU for an L28ET, block for a few hundred (one of the rods snapped, so I just sold the block), I think I sold the heads for about $160.
08-30-2010, 01:40 PM
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They were 5-bolt downpipes... wouldn't work on stock turbos.
And considering the ECU would've probably cost me $75, that ended up being $150... about fair market value for old Specialty Z 2.5" downpipes.
And considering the ECU would've probably cost me $75, that ended up being $150... about fair market value for old Specialty Z 2.5" downpipes.
08-31-2010, 10:14 AM
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Oh okay... Hope you"ll get a z32 soon not just to help me out :P
Anyway just a question i thought i read something about inactivating the hicas by removing a fuse ?? is that possible on the hydraulic one ? since mine is a 91 and i would like to inactivate it sometimes and not to remove it ..
Btw i tried the paperclip thing to get out of safety mode it didnt work
Anyway just a question i thought i read something about inactivating the hicas by removing a fuse ?? is that possible on the hydraulic one ? since mine is a 91 and i would like to inactivate it sometimes and not to remove it ..
Btw i tried the paperclip thing to get out of safety mode it didnt work
Last edited by Sam; 08-31-2010 at 10:29 AM.
08-31-2010, 10:41 AM
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If the paperclip method didn't work, you might not have made proper electrical contact inside the connector. You need to make sure the paperclip is touching the electrical contact inside the connector, so check that.
Only electronic HICAS can be eliminated by removing a fuse. If you pulled the HICAS fuse on your hydraulic system, it would impact the several other systems that share that fuse.
And there is no practical reason to eliminate HICAS. The people who complain about it are using it as a scapegoat for when they lose control of their cars. The only people who legitimately remove it are people trying to save weight for track purposes - it is a fantastic system for street use.
And if you're trying to eliminate it because you want to drift, sell your car and buy an S13.
Only electronic HICAS can be eliminated by removing a fuse. If you pulled the HICAS fuse on your hydraulic system, it would impact the several other systems that share that fuse.
And there is no practical reason to eliminate HICAS. The people who complain about it are using it as a scapegoat for when they lose control of their cars. The only people who legitimately remove it are people trying to save weight for track purposes - it is a fantastic system for street use.
And if you're trying to eliminate it because you want to drift, sell your car and buy an S13.
08-31-2010, 11:30 AM
#21
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If the paperclip method didn't work, you might not have made proper electrical contact inside the connector. You need to make sure the paperclip is touching the electrical contact inside the connector, so check that.
And if you're trying to eliminate it because you want to drift, sell your car and buy an S13.
And if you're trying to eliminate it because you want to drift, sell your car and buy an S13.
I'm sure it made electrical contact as it is crammed very well actually there is only a bit of the paperclip still being visible ! and i unplugged the negative wire on the battery for 30 mins to reset the ECU
P.S: i didnt disconnect the Detonation sensor connector.Yea it is because i want to drift however i'm not a fan of s13's i love the z32!
Being honest it drifts with me pretty well sometimes spin though but due to the endless posts about it inhibiting drifts i was just curious to know how it would react with Hicas eliminated that's why i was interested in the fuse thing..
Last edited by Sam; 08-31-2010 at 11:32 AM.
08-31-2010, 11:48 AM
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Disconnect the speed sensor on the transmission. You'll lose your speedometer, steering will get heavy with no speed input, and HICAS won't work because it doesn't have all the information it needs.
I believe you could also disable HICAS with an aftermarket steering wheel (the OEM wheel has sensors which detect how rapidly you turn the wheel, which is vital for HICAS operation).
I believe you could also disable HICAS with an aftermarket steering wheel (the OEM wheel has sensors which detect how rapidly you turn the wheel, which is vital for HICAS operation).
08-31-2010, 01:00 PM
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You might be stuck replacing the sensor or harness. Try grounding out the detonation sensor connector on the back of the plenum to see if that does it for you.
You can disable HICAS by disconnecting the speed sensor, like I said. You'd get it back by plugging it back in and restarting the car.
You can disable HICAS by disconnecting the speed sensor, like I said. You'd get it back by plugging it back in and restarting the car.
Last edited by ZLover4Life; 08-31-2010 at 01:06 PM.
08-31-2010, 01:12 PM
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You might be stuck replacing the sensor or harness. Try grounding out the detonation sensor connector on the back of the plenum to see if that does it for you.
You can disable HICAS by disconnecting the speed sensor, like I said. You'd get it back by plugging it back in and restarting the car.
You can disable HICAS by disconnecting the speed sensor, like I said. You'd get it back by plugging it back in and restarting the car.
OH can you tell me the exact location of that sensor?
