Any recommendations for a mechanic in the SF Bay Area or LA?
#1
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Any recommendations for a mechanic in the SF Bay Area or LA?
I'm lookin for a major tune up. Timing belt, exhaust, suspension and various other upgrades.
Does anybody know about 'Strickly Z' or 'Scott Performance'?
What kind of rep does Stillen have? Would they be worth the drive down to LA?
Please advise.
Thanks.
shall345
95 TT
Does anybody know about 'Strickly Z' or 'Scott Performance'?
What kind of rep does Stillen have? Would they be worth the drive down to LA?
Please advise.
Thanks.
shall345
95 TT
#2
I used to live in the Bay Area, and several years ago I was having mechanical problems with my Z31. I called a few places looking for some reliable advise, but instead, I found Scott Performance. I wish I could remember who I spoke with, but the guy was the most arrogant *******. I would never recommend going there. I wish I could remember the name of the place I wound up taking it to, but it was too long ago. I wish I oculd be of more help. I vividly remember the ***** from Scott's though. I highly recommend that you go somewhere else.
#6
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shops
greg dupree does work out of his shop in socl (specialtyz).. some good shops to take your car to in norcal area are
http://www.stagemotorsports.com (striclyz)
exact motorsports, also in san jose
i have never been to scott's performance, but i hear they are good...
zdoctor, i have heard alot of bad things about them..
currently my car is at stagemotorsports(strictlyz).. and everything has gone great so far, dropped the car off friday, took a tour of the new place they have going, and it was a really great experience... can't wait to get my z back on the road!!
-kevin
http://www.stagemotorsports.com (striclyz)
exact motorsports, also in san jose
i have never been to scott's performance, but i hear they are good...
zdoctor, i have heard alot of bad things about them..
currently my car is at stagemotorsports(strictlyz).. and everything has gone great so far, dropped the car off friday, took a tour of the new place they have going, and it was a really great experience... can't wait to get my z back on the road!!
-kevin
#7
Strictly Z AND Scott performance (whether or not people are mean there) have had good things said about them. I would strongly recommend Greg Dupree...the man is amazing. It takes him like 20 min to replace an injector.
#10
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where is mossy nissan? I know some mechanic guy wants 340 for labor, then I buy parts.. it looks like the waterpump been replace, it looks a lot better than my waterpump on my 240sx, the plugs and fuel filter all replaced... the previous owner didn't tell me if the timing belt replace because he went to jail so there isn't a chance to ask him for more stuff..... I was told Z1 motorspot wants 500 (timing belts parts + labor + waterpump) for it but haha it's in PA, probably that's why it's cheap. but if I found a deal like that 500 to do the 60k, I would jump into it ... if it's really that expensive, like the other shop quoted me 800.. I probably will start doing it with my other friend..
#11
It's in San Diego. It's a dealership. The $300 includes parts, but that price is JUST for the timing belt mind you. If you wanted ANYTHING else...taht's where they jack you. Well, good luck with taht.....if you do it....write up a tech...take some pics while you're doing the job and write out a detailed tech. I, personally, would appreciate it like crazy!
#12
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ah~? san diego? damn that's far away. but that sounds resonable, that means 250 for labor, around 30-40 for the belt.. I don't know but do tensioner always go bad??
if I install it myself I will probably just change the belt and tension and the vtc spring maybe.. I don't want to deal with water pump because last time I don't seal it well it leak coolant all over the place, the most thing I worry about changing timing belt is I worry I will install it inproperly.. like off a tooth and such..
if I install it myself I will probably just change the belt and tension and the vtc spring maybe.. I don't want to deal with water pump because last time I don't seal it well it leak coolant all over the place, the most thing I worry about changing timing belt is I worry I will install it inproperly.. like off a tooth and such..
#13
The tensioner is more of something that you just want to get done while you're down there. Most have a squeling every once in a while that goes away after 5 min. It's not harmful, just annoying. It's not common for the tensioner to malfunction...due to the wearing of the bearings inside the mechanism, but if it does go out...you have to do everyhting again. Most just do it while there down there so they don't have to pull it apart again.
#14
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all I know is that my car needs to warm up like 3 - 5 mins if the weather is like 50-55, if I run it like just warmed up 1 min, the car will make a little squeezing noise and some heastiation for a block or so, then it will run good...
in hotter weather, like 65-70 and I start the car, I only warm up like 1 min then the car can go without any squeezing noise and any heastiation.... I was told it's normal that this old car need some warm up in colder weather.
don't really have a whole lot of cash so if I can find a cheap place to replace the timing belt.. it would help out alot Other then the doubt of the timing belt replacement.. the car runs pretty good overall.
in hotter weather, like 65-70 and I start the car, I only warm up like 1 min then the car can go without any squeezing noise and any heastiation.... I was told it's normal that this old car need some warm up in colder weather.
don't really have a whole lot of cash so if I can find a cheap place to replace the timing belt.. it would help out alot Other then the doubt of the timing belt replacement.. the car runs pretty good overall.
#15
I'm in the same position. I need to do my 60K and I also have a bunch of seals that I need to do while I'm down there. And I don't have tons of cash. But it is somewhat normal...the warm up thing that is. The squeeling noise is most likely your tensioner, the hesitation...not sure. I've heard cases of the same things plenty of times before though.
#16
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oo.. the squeezing noise only start when I start running the car.. like you know drive it out... it won't do it in idle at all.. if I don't start running the car, I hardly hear any squeezing noise.. maybe like 10-15 sec of very little ticking noise then it will gone.. all those symtoms only happen in cold weather.. so I like hot weather more
#17
Yea, that should be your tensioner, I believe. My car does the same thing as do a few friends'. You won't hear it too well usually ...once you give it gas though...it gets louder and then goes away at a certain point.
#18
The squealing you're hearing is more likely an accessory belt (AC/power steering/water pump & alternator). The power steering belt tension is adjusted from above. The alternator and AC belts are adjusted from below. You need to remove the belly pan. The T-belt tensioner and the idler pulley under the timing belt shroud stay pretty clean and move quite freely. A squealing timing belt is not common at all. Check your accessory belts to see if any seem looser than the others. If they all seem to have the same tension on them, try spraying simple green, or something comparable on the belts while the car is running. It is possible that some grease or oil has built up on the pulleys and is causing the squealing. Hope this helps you two because it sounds like you're having identical problems.
#19
Manuelku-
If you're changing the T-belt, it is highly recommended to change the tensioner and the water pump at the same time since it is all duplicate labor. If your car has 120k miles or more on it, then it is recommended that you change the idlre pulleys as well, but it's not required. SGP sells a timing belt replacement kit that includes pretty much everything you need. www.sgpracing.com. Sorry, but I am no help when it comes to who you should take your car to. I do all my own work. If Greg Dupree can change an injectore in 20 minutes, then I'd recommend him. I don't think even Superman could do that. He has established a very good name for himself with Specialty Z.
If you're changing the T-belt, it is highly recommended to change the tensioner and the water pump at the same time since it is all duplicate labor. If your car has 120k miles or more on it, then it is recommended that you change the idlre pulleys as well, but it's not required. SGP sells a timing belt replacement kit that includes pretty much everything you need. www.sgpracing.com. Sorry, but I am no help when it comes to who you should take your car to. I do all my own work. If Greg Dupree can change an injectore in 20 minutes, then I'd recommend him. I don't think even Superman could do that. He has established a very good name for himself with Specialty Z.
#20
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I just bought timing belt and stuff from courtesy, didn't buy the tensioner doh .. I maybe get the tensioner from local store then.. they are hella expensive like 120-50 something.. is there any cheaper out there? like 60-70?..
I probably going to change the timing belt because I don't know if it was done before... my car has 142k, it runs very good but it failed smog pre-test (failed HC by little and hella high CO), the pwr steering hose is blew as well.. Other than that and the cold weather thing. the car runs very good..
I really have no idea when the last timing belt was changed.. but I was told they only last like 60k.. if they didn't change it, the belt would've been snapped already rite?
I probably going to change the timing belt because I don't know if it was done before... my car has 142k, it runs very good but it failed smog pre-test (failed HC by little and hella high CO), the pwr steering hose is blew as well.. Other than that and the cold weather thing. the car runs very good..
I really have no idea when the last timing belt was changed.. but I was told they only last like 60k.. if they didn't change it, the belt would've been snapped already rite?
#21
At 142k it may be better to be safe than sorry. Courtesy has some very competitive prices. Since you already have the t-belt, go back through them. At the bottom right of the Z32 page is a timing belt section. Select the proper model, then select the different items you need from there. I would recommend the idler pulleys, thermostat, tensioner and the water pump. It is also recommended that you change the cam seals and the main seal. The other parts I listed are not that expensive, but if they fail, the labor is very expensive. You can spend a little more now, or a lot later. It's your call. You won't find a tensioner for much less. It is a very important part of the timing system.
Timing belts can go longer than 60k. I bought my car with 78k in it. It has 148k now and i just changed it 2 weeks ago. Depending on who you talk you, some will say 60k; while others will say 80k. Mine had 70k approx and it was pretty ugly. I have it at home, so I'll take a picture of it and attach it here. It was pretty stretched. I won't take it over 60k again. Some people have gotten them to go 100k, while others snap shortly after 60k. It's depends on the quality if construction. Another thing to think about is maybe the previous owner had it changed after 80k, so now would be a good time to do it.
If the car failed smog with high CO and HC's, I would suspect O2 sensors. Nect time you take it in, make sure the engine is real hot and run a couple tanks of good gas through it (Chevron, Unocal, Mobile, etc.). Take the car out and "clean it out". I suggest some nice long freeway onramps that let you redline 1st and 2nd gear, then get a good way into 3rd gear. In other words, don't be bashful with the throttle.
Timing belts can go longer than 60k. I bought my car with 78k in it. It has 148k now and i just changed it 2 weeks ago. Depending on who you talk you, some will say 60k; while others will say 80k. Mine had 70k approx and it was pretty ugly. I have it at home, so I'll take a picture of it and attach it here. It was pretty stretched. I won't take it over 60k again. Some people have gotten them to go 100k, while others snap shortly after 60k. It's depends on the quality if construction. Another thing to think about is maybe the previous owner had it changed after 80k, so now would be a good time to do it.
If the car failed smog with high CO and HC's, I would suspect O2 sensors. Nect time you take it in, make sure the engine is real hot and run a couple tanks of good gas through it (Chevron, Unocal, Mobile, etc.). Take the car out and "clean it out". I suggest some nice long freeway onramps that let you redline 1st and 2nd gear, then get a good way into 3rd gear. In other words, don't be bashful with the throttle.
#22
StrictlyZ/ Stage Motorsports.. Its roughly a 6hr job...
StageMotorsports
Call and ask for Robert 408-286-4685
StageMotorsports
Call and ask for Robert 408-286-4685
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