300ZX (Z32) Forums Dedicated to 90-96 ZCars otherwize known as the Z32's

Any recommendations for a mechanic in the SF Bay Area or LA?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-06-2004 | 12:19 AM
  #2  
91zxtt's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,672
From: Gerber, CA
I used to live in the Bay Area, and several years ago I was having mechanical problems with my Z31. I called a few places looking for some reliable advise, but instead, I found Scott Performance. I wish I could remember who I spoke with, but the guy was the most arrogant *******. I would never recommend going there. I wish I could remember the name of the place I wound up taking it to, but it was too long ago. I wish I oculd be of more help. I vividly remember the ***** from Scott's though. I highly recommend that you go somewhere else.
Old 01-06-2004 | 11:52 PM
  #5  
91zxtt's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,672
From: Gerber, CA
Gregg rings a bell, but I can't remember. It was at least 5 years ago. It was definitely Scott Performance that I spoke with though.
Old 01-18-2004 | 05:10 PM
  #7  
emo236's Avatar
confuzed member
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,074
From: Salinas, CA
Strictly Z AND Scott performance (whether or not people are mean there) have had good things said about them. I would strongly recommend Greg Dupree...the man is amazing. It takes him like 20 min to replace an injector.
Old 02-03-2004 | 01:08 AM
  #9  
emo236's Avatar
confuzed member
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,074
From: Salinas, CA
I do know that Mossy Nissan charges $300 exactly for a timing belt. Go check at your local dealer....I know it sounds ridiculous, but try it. If not, then call those other that were mentioned.
Old 02-03-2004 | 01:24 AM
  #11  
emo236's Avatar
confuzed member
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,074
From: Salinas, CA
It's in San Diego. It's a dealership. The $300 includes parts, but that price is JUST for the timing belt mind you. If you wanted ANYTHING else...taht's where they jack you. Well, good luck with taht.....if you do it....write up a tech...take some pics while you're doing the job and write out a detailed tech. I, personally, would appreciate it like crazy!
Old 02-03-2004 | 01:31 AM
  #13  
emo236's Avatar
confuzed member
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,074
From: Salinas, CA
The tensioner is more of something that you just want to get done while you're down there. Most have a squeling every once in a while that goes away after 5 min. It's not harmful, just annoying. It's not common for the tensioner to malfunction...due to the wearing of the bearings inside the mechanism, but if it does go out...you have to do everyhting again. Most just do it while there down there so they don't have to pull it apart again.
Old 02-03-2004 | 01:39 AM
  #15  
emo236's Avatar
confuzed member
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,074
From: Salinas, CA
I'm in the same position. I need to do my 60K and I also have a bunch of seals that I need to do while I'm down there. And I don't have tons of cash. But it is somewhat normal...the warm up thing that is. The squeeling noise is most likely your tensioner, the hesitation...not sure. I've heard cases of the same things plenty of times before though.
Old 02-03-2004 | 11:54 AM
  #17  
emo236's Avatar
confuzed member
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,074
From: Salinas, CA
Yea, that should be your tensioner, I believe. My car does the same thing as do a few friends'. You won't hear it too well usually ...once you give it gas though...it gets louder and then goes away at a certain point.
Old 02-03-2004 | 04:38 PM
  #18  
91zxtt's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,672
From: Gerber, CA
The squealing you're hearing is more likely an accessory belt (AC/power steering/water pump & alternator). The power steering belt tension is adjusted from above. The alternator and AC belts are adjusted from below. You need to remove the belly pan. The T-belt tensioner and the idler pulley under the timing belt shroud stay pretty clean and move quite freely. A squealing timing belt is not common at all. Check your accessory belts to see if any seem looser than the others. If they all seem to have the same tension on them, try spraying simple green, or something comparable on the belts while the car is running. It is possible that some grease or oil has built up on the pulleys and is causing the squealing. Hope this helps you two because it sounds like you're having identical problems.
Old 02-03-2004 | 04:46 PM
  #19  
91zxtt's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,672
From: Gerber, CA
Manuelku-

If you're changing the T-belt, it is highly recommended to change the tensioner and the water pump at the same time since it is all duplicate labor. If your car has 120k miles or more on it, then it is recommended that you change the idlre pulleys as well, but it's not required. SGP sells a timing belt replacement kit that includes pretty much everything you need. www.sgpracing.com. Sorry, but I am no help when it comes to who you should take your car to. I do all my own work. If Greg Dupree can change an injectore in 20 minutes, then I'd recommend him. I don't think even Superman could do that. He has established a very good name for himself with Specialty Z.
Old 02-03-2004 | 06:09 PM
  #21  
91zxtt's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,672
From: Gerber, CA
At 142k it may be better to be safe than sorry. Courtesy has some very competitive prices. Since you already have the t-belt, go back through them. At the bottom right of the Z32 page is a timing belt section. Select the proper model, then select the different items you need from there. I would recommend the idler pulleys, thermostat, tensioner and the water pump. It is also recommended that you change the cam seals and the main seal. The other parts I listed are not that expensive, but if they fail, the labor is very expensive. You can spend a little more now, or a lot later. It's your call. You won't find a tensioner for much less. It is a very important part of the timing system.

Timing belts can go longer than 60k. I bought my car with 78k in it. It has 148k now and i just changed it 2 weeks ago. Depending on who you talk you, some will say 60k; while others will say 80k. Mine had 70k approx and it was pretty ugly. I have it at home, so I'll take a picture of it and attach it here. It was pretty stretched. I won't take it over 60k again. Some people have gotten them to go 100k, while others snap shortly after 60k. It's depends on the quality if construction. Another thing to think about is maybe the previous owner had it changed after 80k, so now would be a good time to do it.

If the car failed smog with high CO and HC's, I would suspect O2 sensors. Nect time you take it in, make sure the engine is real hot and run a couple tanks of good gas through it (Chevron, Unocal, Mobile, etc.). Take the car out and "clean it out". I suggest some nice long freeway onramps that let you redline 1st and 2nd gear, then get a good way into 3rd gear. In other words, don't be bashful with the throttle.
Old 02-06-2004 | 12:21 PM
  #22  
GodZilla's Avatar
Banned
 
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,727
From: CA
StrictlyZ/ Stage Motorsports.. Its roughly a 6hr job...

StageMotorsports

Call and ask for Robert 408-286-4685
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
superjoe
240Z, 260Z, 280Z (S30) Forums
3
08-22-2011 01:30 PM
judojim
280ZX (S130) Forums
1
01-21-2005 05:53 PM
judojim
280ZX (S130) Forums
13
01-10-2005 11:57 PM
judojim
For Sale (VIEW ALL)
0
12-29-2004 11:58 AM
cary280zxt
240Z, 260Z, 280Z (S30) Forums
4
05-25-2001 01:04 PM




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:33 AM.