For around 2000-2500 range, or lower without giving up on quality, which companies offer the best choices?

And is there such thing as good inexpensive forged rims?

 

Yes, there is such a thing as inexpensive forged rims. It's better to have an entirely forged *wheel* though. I picked up my forged aluminum wheels for $200 (used, but as long as they're in good condition, there's nothing wrong with used wheels).

And that's a high price range even for a lot of really good wheels. Look at Volk, 5Zigen, Advan, Enkie (certain models)... other members will chime in with recommendations. Just make sure you go no larger than 18", the wheels are at least as wide as stock, and they're light.

 

how wide can you go without interfering with anything?

 

you should look at Work wheels, they are BADASS!!!! and reliable

http://www.workwheelsusa.com/category.php

i prefer the chrome Meisters

 

Thanks for all the replies fellas.

I currently running 235/40/18 in the front and 275/35/18 in the back without any issues, and I don't plan to go any larger then 18s, but I would like to go a little wider.

Any advantages of 2 or 3 piece over the 1 piece design?

And yeah, those Work wheels do look pretty awesome man.

 

No real-world advantages of a multi-piece over 1-piece. Don't let that be a deciding factor.

KasbeKZ - How wide you can go is dependent on offset and TT or NA. And ultimately, you can go as wide as you want if you're willing to modify the car. I believe some guy on tt.net is running 10.5" rears with 315 tires or something like that (no modifications)... any larger and it'd stick out the sides or rub the control arms for HICAS. No, I don't know the offset. It's often easier/cheaper to just get a stickier set of tires than to rely on width to get the power to the ground - when Greg Dupree first ran 10's, he did it on stock TT rears wrapped in MT ET Streets. My 9.5" rears grip very well with mediocre tires and it's not difficult to find a 9.5" wheel that'll fit on the Z32 well.

 

I like ADR, a bit heavy though. Konig unknowns look sick on a 350, but have never seen them on a z32.

As far as tires. it's all about tires. The Toyo T1-R's are AMAZING. A bit pricey though. I used to run yokohama es-100's, then i got a set of these toyo's, and OMG! Buying tires is just like anything else for the z32, you get what you pay for.

Although I do have a set of Nitto 555's on my stock wheels for track use (back only), sure looks funky with 18's in the front and stock wheels on the back, until I do a massive burn out and can still drive home. =-)

 

ADR wheels are heavy and poorly constructed (they're also knockoffs of other brands). Search twinturbo.net - many members had issues with ADR wheels (finish pitting and flaking off).

 

Good info here bro. Thank you.

I suppose the 1piece design would be lighter then the multipiece design?

That's amazing about the stock TT back wheels. Had no idea.

Can you recommend some stickies for my size rims?

 

Go to tirerack.com, look up your size, select "Ultra High Performance," "Max Performance," and "Extreme Performance," browse. At 275mm rears, any good performance tire will grip.

I like Bridgestone Potenza, but they don't last long. Lots of people stand by Bridgestone S-03 Pole Position, Toyo Proxes, Michelin Pilot Sport, BFGoodrich G-Force T/A KDW 2, etc etc etc.

My tires (only have them because they came with the wheels) are Yokohama ES100 (275mm rears, like yours)... they handle the 469rwhp just fine.

 

lol zlover, i'm obviously not looking to put power to the ground lol. i recently did a 4000 rmp dump and got little more than a bark out of the back wheels. i'm just asking about width because if i ever end up with new wheels (no real intention or plans right now), i'd like to get some extra width, especially in the back, to aid in handling. i'm planning on getting into the auto-x scene this next season, and i'm really not liking how easily the stock N/A likes to drift. it's fun the first few times, but when i'm not trying to do it, it gets dangerous lol.

 

This isn't how to properly launch any car. You can make the widest wheels with the stickiest tires spin if you launch like you're having a seizure. Slipping the clutch is the only way to manage it.

But you're asking the right kind of questions if you want better cornering. Wider wheels + lower profile tires. Going larger than 10" or 10.5" would just be useless though (which works out, since that's the largest you'd tuck in the rear). I'd say 9" all around or 8-9" front, 9-10: rear if you want a staggered setup. (FWIW, my setup is 8" front, 9.5" rear.)

 

alright thanks for the clarification. 9's all around sound pretty good.

BTW, my 4000 rpm dump was more of an anger thing lol. i'm changing the clutch in a couple weeks so i didn't mind the little extra wear. it's not a normal thing for me. i'm just pissed that i did all the work of changing the throw out bearing a few months ago, and now the problem is back. i've had it suggested though that it may be the pilot bushing instead.

what do you mean by slipping the clutch? just letting it out slowly and giving a lot of gas once it starts to catch?

 

id have suggest falken fk45s just because they are cheap and the shear amount of built street cars running them

http://www.falkentire.com/#/Tires/Tuner/

 

Not a lot of gas but you have to gradually get on the gas. Lot of gas will evaporate the back tires.

 

hmm. i've never tried hard enough to break the back loose from a stand still unless i was turning and going into a doughnut.

 

i watched a special on tv at a wheel manufacturer recently forget which company, they made the mutli piece and solid piece wheels, they said the only advantage to the multipiece is customization. as in you can change the center section out or get it powder coated etc. and not have anything to worry about as far as making sure theres no over spray or whatever.

 

i guess 1 piece wheels are better for weight? must be the bolts or rivets adding that weight, dosent seem to make much dif. but then again unsprung is a bitch...

 

Did you ever answer my question about holding the clutch in frequently? If you stay on the clutch at stop lights and during long-duration stops, that'll prematurely wear out the throw out bearing.

And to launch, hold the rpms around 3-4k and slowly let off the clutch, controlling wheelspin (you want to hear them squeal, but not completely break loose). Once you are completely off the clutch, get on the gas... but not before. Yes, it is hard on the clutch... but launching a car is expected to be rough on lots of parts.

 

yeah i answered your question. i never hold the clutch in at lights or anything. i never rev with the clutch in either. i have pretty much ruled out the TOB. i'm thinking it's the pilot bushing now.

 

I would think it saves weight. With the multipiece design, if you bend your rim you wouldn't have to replace the whole rim? Right?

 

You don't have to try very hard to break loose. 4 grand dump would get you some smoke.

 

Correct... but bending a rim isn't something that frequently occurs, so I wouldn't plan for it. Buying a multi-piece wheel just for when that happens is like buying earthquake insurance for your home in the midwest... sure, it might happen (we had a small quake in Chicagoland last spring), but it's not something one should expect to happen.

I bent all four wheels once when I lost control and went over an 8" curb at 60+ mph... but the car was ultimately wrecked in the process and that's about what it takes to bend a wheel (unless you run ridiculously low-profile tires, which I wouldn't recommend).

 

second^^^^ and as for weight, when i was watching that special they said on a very select few of there solid wheels compared to 2 piece they were able to save like a 2 lbs or something, so it really isnt any advantage to either

 

you could just get a set of these bad boys, new 30" by 2", 19 piece WoodworK rims



they be ballin!!!!