Detonation sensor w/ohms reading
#1
Detonation sensor w/ohms reading
Today I tested my detonation sensor connector (ecu side) with an ohm meter and I got 12.5 with the car off. The Car on acc. I tested again and I got 140.0
Now I read something that that it is supposed to read 500k ohms?? That sounds like a lot! So my question is with my numbers tested is my connector bad from the ecu or do those numbers sound okay? I was just going to relocate the entire detonation sensor and harness but if all I need is that top clip and wiring it would probably be cheaper on me.
Now I read something that that it is supposed to read 500k ohms?? That sounds like a lot! So my question is with my numbers tested is my connector bad from the ecu or do those numbers sound okay? I was just going to relocate the entire detonation sensor and harness but if all I need is that top clip and wiring it would probably be cheaper on me.
#2
Is your ecu throwing a code for the detonation (knock) sensor?
Last year on my 97 Infiniti QX4 I got the dreaded knock sensor code. After some research I found that since most all (if not all) VG engines have the knock sensor under the lower intake, the simple solution is to solder up a set of resistors from RadioShack that equal ~530k ohms and install it in the ecu side of the knock sensor harness plug. Relocating the knock sensor will give false readings.
Also, make sure you've downloaded the FSM: www.xenonz32.com/reference.html
Last year on my 97 Infiniti QX4 I got the dreaded knock sensor code. After some research I found that since most all (if not all) VG engines have the knock sensor under the lower intake, the simple solution is to solder up a set of resistors from RadioShack that equal ~530k ohms and install it in the ecu side of the knock sensor harness plug. Relocating the knock sensor will give false readings.
Also, make sure you've downloaded the FSM: www.xenonz32.com/reference.html
#3
okay so i did the resistor test and after i cleared the code 3-4 diffrent times it still comes back with a code 34. my question is, is the pack i bought the correct size? the guy and radio shack said it was a 1 mega ohm resistor so i sodered it up and tried the resistor trick. second is i mentioned before that after testing the connector to the ecu it didnt read close to 500k ohms, so maybe the connector going to the knock isnt bad, maybe its the harness that goes to the ecu? my other question is what is that harness called? is that considered the sub harness? thanks again heres some pics
#4
You need to solder up 2 of those in parallel, they split the ohms to equal 500k....just looked again, says 10mohm...thats not 1 mohm, to edit more, brown, black, blue IS 10 megaohms. Brown, black green is 1 mohm.
Last edited by Skully; 05-27-2014 at 12:25 PM.
#5
So now my question is, which way should I wire them?
The one listed 2 wires or 1 wire?
and wiring (2) brown black blue resistors will be okay?
thanks sooo much for your help.
Last edited by 97gtp; 05-27-2014 at 12:53 PM.
#6
okay, I figured that the resistor some how might have been wrong since I dont know much about them. It's tough for me to understand I guess.
So now my question is, which way should I wire them?
The one listed 2 wires or 1 wire?
and wiring (2) brown black blue resistors will be okay?
thanks sooo much for your help.
So now my question is, which way should I wire them?
The one listed 2 wires or 1 wire?
and wiring (2) brown black blue resistors will be okay?
thanks sooo much for your help.
And just to inquire, Nismo why would you suggest not relocating the sensor? I have done it fine with my 300zx, I know there would be a chance it could pick up other ticks etc, but better than nothing? So far no codes, or safety modes.
Cheers!
Last edited by Skully; 05-27-2014 at 01:03 PM.
#7
thank you so much!!
#9
honestly though i thank you for your help i appriciate you guys! I'm so happy to have a z even if it is a beater slightly riced out and misfring all will be fixed soon.
#10
i can tape the entire thing up ghetto style, i just wanna use this as a test. i will end up buying that top harness from z1, or maybe buy the bypass clip. but i like everything working properly so we shall see. when i replace the sub harness, do i just peel the insulation back and expect to find a clip, then clip the new on in, then the end that im jumping goes into the plug that is attached to the engine, that leads to the ks? or does that sub harness have to get routed all the way back to the ecu? i can probably look at the fsm but those diagrams are super tricky lmao
honestly though i thank you for your help i appriciate you guys! I'm so happy to have a z even if it is a beater slightly riced out and misfring all will be fixed soon.
honestly though i thank you for your help i appriciate you guys! I'm so happy to have a z even if it is a beater slightly riced out and misfring all will be fixed soon.
Last edited by Skully; 05-27-2014 at 01:24 PM.
#11
Here is a wonderfull writeup.
I would still recommend relocating the sensor. Up to you. Read and research.
http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/deto...ionSensor.html
I would still recommend relocating the sensor. Up to you. Read and research.
http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/deto...ionSensor.html
#14
Okay so still bad, I'm
Pretty sure it's the harness, now one last test I thought I heard of... Can I switch one of the other connectors and clip it on the ks clip? I thought I herd you can pull the vct ( the timing one which doesnt sound right) sensor or one of the other ones up top?
Pretty sure it's the harness, now one last test I thought I heard of... Can I switch one of the other connectors and clip it on the ks clip? I thought I herd you can pull the vct ( the timing one which doesnt sound right) sensor or one of the other ones up top?
#15
The connectors do interchange, but I do believe that the vct has no sub harness. And just make sure things ARE plugged in where they are suppose to be!! The white sheathing should be the VCT. Not plugged into the det sensor.
Last edited by Skully; 05-27-2014 at 02:48 PM.
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