Drivers side lock with key problem
#1
Drivers side lock with key problem
Hi everyone, just to introduce myself as I am new to the Z community! I just bought a 1990 300ZX NA manual with 85K miles and it's in excellent condition. I'll post some pictures when I get home from work.
However, I have two issues:
1. The drivers side lock will not turn with my key. If I lock the doors I have to open the car with the same key from the passenger side. I can lock the car automatically from the inside drivers side lock (which locks the other door automatically as well). Some kind of lock malfunction?
2. I think I have a driveshaft issue as my car begins to vibrate as I approach 35 miles hour. I noticed there is a separate driveshaft problem thread where I will post this issue as well. I'm not very mechanical, but from I see it's a rather easy installation after the part is purchased. Has anyone else dealt with this? What are the risks if I do not immediately fix it? I noticed the part is $200 which isn't bad at all.
Thanks!
Nick
However, I have two issues:
1. The drivers side lock will not turn with my key. If I lock the doors I have to open the car with the same key from the passenger side. I can lock the car automatically from the inside drivers side lock (which locks the other door automatically as well). Some kind of lock malfunction?
2. I think I have a driveshaft issue as my car begins to vibrate as I approach 35 miles hour. I noticed there is a separate driveshaft problem thread where I will post this issue as well. I'm not very mechanical, but from I see it's a rather easy installation after the part is purchased. Has anyone else dealt with this? What are the risks if I do not immediately fix it? I noticed the part is $200 which isn't bad at all.
Thanks!
Nick
#2
You are probably experiencing vibrations because of a wearing U-Joint connecting the two pieces of the shaft together. It is a common problem, and fairly simple fix. I had the same problem. Your better off just getting a single piece driveshaft from somewhere like Z1. They are lighter, and do not suffer from this problem obviously. I do not think you should have a problem if you don't immediately fix it, although I'm not positive. I didn't immediately fix mine when I bought it (and who knows how long the problem existed before I owned it) and I didn't have any problems because of it. If you change it make sure you buy new seals for when you re-install it.
As for the lock problem, I don't know about that. I'm sure someone else will have some suggestions about it though.
As for the lock problem, I don't know about that. I'm sure someone else will have some suggestions about it though.
#3
i used to have that issue with my lock on my Z32... they both lock wehn you lock one on purpose, so when your getting out you dont have to lock each individually, if you unlock the dirvers side with the key they both unlock to... makes life simple. as for the key and drivers side door. try pulling it out a HAIR. it might be jsut in to far where the tumblers dont match up just right. its probably just a key depth issue, however it is possible some idiot replace teh lock with one from a different car. go figure.
#4
Try using a graphite lubricating spray to free up your driver's side lock. You could probably get away with WD-40 also.
I can't imagine any idiot rekeying one lock and not the other. Anything's possible though.
Usually driveshaft vibrations are felt at speeds over 50 MPH. I would bet you have a wheel or two out of balance instead of a driveshaft issue.
I can't imagine any idiot rekeying one lock and not the other. Anything's possible though.
Usually driveshaft vibrations are felt at speeds over 50 MPH. I would bet you have a wheel or two out of balance instead of a driveshaft issue.
#5
carrier bearing for vibrations, on a car that old that rubber boot around the bearing (center of driveshaft) gets brittle and cracks and you will get vibrations. also while you are under there, check out your transmission mount as it is made of the same rubber. As far as the drivers side lock not working on the outside, does the key "penatrate" the lock all the way? Is your key worn, as in the ridges of it worn down and smooth? Does your key work on the back? Does the lock turn but not unlock the door? I think you wrote it does not. There is a mechanical part to that lock that can break leaving you this problem. Locksmiths are about 45$ an hour I think, might be worth it.
#6
Hey guys, thanks for the responses. I said I would post a few pics for now so here they are:
As far as the lock goes, I have tried to pull it out a little and monkey with it as much as I can, no dice. It doesn't turn either way and works both on the trunk and passenger side. Like you guys said, it doesn't make sense for someone to have changed that lock, but it's possible. I called a locksmith and they want to charge 45 for the service call and 65 to pull the cylander and re-key it, so that might be my only alternative.
I'm pretty sure it's the drive shaft because the mechanic also said something about the J-bolts on the drive shaft when it was checked out before I bought the car, however he quoted me 600 for the park and another 300 for labor..wtf.
As far as the lock goes, I have tried to pull it out a little and monkey with it as much as I can, no dice. It doesn't turn either way and works both on the trunk and passenger side. Like you guys said, it doesn't make sense for someone to have changed that lock, but it's possible. I called a locksmith and they want to charge 45 for the service call and 65 to pull the cylander and re-key it, so that might be my only alternative.
I'm pretty sure it's the drive shaft because the mechanic also said something about the J-bolts on the drive shaft when it was checked out before I bought the car, however he quoted me 600 for the park and another 300 for labor..wtf.
#7
Originally Posted by elvvay
Hey guys, thanks for the responses. I said I would post a few pics for now so here they are:
As far as the lock goes, I have tried to pull it out a little and monkey with it as much as I can, no dice. It doesn't turn either way and works both on the trunk and passenger side. Like you guys said, it doesn't make sense for someone to have changed that lock, but it's possible. I called a locksmith and they want to charge 45 for the service call and 65 to pull the cylander and re-key it, so that might be my only alternative.
I'm pretty sure it's the drive shaft because the mechanic also said something about the J-bolts on the drive shaft when it was checked out before I bought the car, however he quoted me 600 for the park and another 300 for labor..wtf.
As far as the lock goes, I have tried to pull it out a little and monkey with it as much as I can, no dice. It doesn't turn either way and works both on the trunk and passenger side. Like you guys said, it doesn't make sense for someone to have changed that lock, but it's possible. I called a locksmith and they want to charge 45 for the service call and 65 to pull the cylander and re-key it, so that might be my only alternative.
I'm pretty sure it's the drive shaft because the mechanic also said something about the J-bolts on the drive shaft when it was checked out before I bought the car, however he quoted me 600 for the park and another 300 for labor..wtf.
P.S. Download a Copy of the FSM and grab yourself a good set of tools might be as high as 250 - 300$ for a decent set of tools with alot of stuff you will need. but in the end it will save you alot of money and you will get to know your car personally.
-Juan
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