A few questions before buying, tried search
08-31-2004, 07:44 PM
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 15
A few questions before buying, tried search
I looking into buying a 91 Z N/A with 111,696 miles. Body has a few flaws I think I can live with but....
The steering wheel shakes quite a bit, I suspect its because the wheels are not balanced right? There are no weights on them that I can see, and tires are wearing normally.
Also, every time you press on the brakes, the red light indicator on the dash lights up, but when you check the rear brake lights they all appear to be on.
I am also concerned about what a normal oil psi should be at idle?
Lastly,
the shift **** is real loose once its in each gear. I had a similar problem on an Rx7 and I replaced some bushing that held the shifter in place, is there a similar process for the Z?
It had the timing belt done at 103k miles, and a centerforde clutch at 80k miles. No other reported problems from owner, and it starts and runs good, idled in parking lot a while while I checked it out and did not overheat.
He's asking $6900.
Any suggestions or tips from some veteran Z owners for a potential Z owner?
Thanks in advance for taking time to help and to answer questions that have been probably asked of you before. I just didnt have any luck with the search feature.
Steve
The steering wheel shakes quite a bit, I suspect its because the wheels are not balanced right? There are no weights on them that I can see, and tires are wearing normally.
Also, every time you press on the brakes, the red light indicator on the dash lights up, but when you check the rear brake lights they all appear to be on.
I am also concerned about what a normal oil psi should be at idle?
Lastly,
the shift **** is real loose once its in each gear. I had a similar problem on an Rx7 and I replaced some bushing that held the shifter in place, is there a similar process for the Z?
It had the timing belt done at 103k miles, and a centerforde clutch at 80k miles. No other reported problems from owner, and it starts and runs good, idled in parking lot a while while I checked it out and did not overheat.
He's asking $6900.
Any suggestions or tips from some veteran Z owners for a potential Z owner?
Thanks in advance for taking time to help and to answer questions that have been probably asked of you before. I just didnt have any luck with the search feature.
Steve
09-01-2004, 10:30 AM
#2
confuzed member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Salinas, CA
Posts: 3,074
First of all, that price seems a bit high for the condition that you described, but as to you questions. Bushing on the tranny, yes, the shifter bushing, it's worn. Be careful though, does it grind going into gears AT ALL? Any noise during shifts? The synchros could be worn as well. Does the steering wheel shake while braking or just all the time? If during braking only, the rotors are warped. If it's all the time, that could be a problem, check the steering shaft for damage, etc. Good luck. I would suggest being patient and looking around more, I'm sure you can find a nicer Z, with less miles, less problems, better condition for less money.
09-01-2004, 11:51 AM
#3
Jack Of All Trades
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Acton, California
Posts: 2,296
I agree with emo, too much for the condition but, if you can get $300 off for a brake job, $300 off for new shocks, another $100 off for balance & alignment and $100 or so off for rack and other front suspension bushings, you'd probably be in the ballpark mechanically. If the oil is dirty black, I'd go elsewhere because you know it hasn't been maintained.
Carfax?????
Carfax?????
09-01-2004, 11:57 AM
#4
Southern Speedster
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 179
I just asked about the oil pressure. Follow this thread...
https://www.zdriver.com/showthread.php?t=10110
https://www.zdriver.com/showthread.php?t=10110
09-01-2004, 01:32 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 15
Yeah. the steering wheel shakes all the time, but there are no weights on the wheels that I can see, there are marks where some used to be.
Car did not grind at all going through the gears and shifted easily but once in the gear the shifter was loose and had play.
I did a prelim carfax with 6 records but havent done the full order yet.
I read somewhere that it might be the tie rods or some kind of bushings that are bad causing the shaking. It will be smooth, shake and smooth out as speed is increased.
I was thinking of offering 4500 or 5000 for it if I could get a clean carfax and determine how much work to get the shaking stopped. What do you guys think? What would be a good deal for a 91 with 111696 miles in this shape, no t tops or turbo, black with some fender work due to deer encounter.
All else seems to be ok.
Thanks for the replies!
Car did not grind at all going through the gears and shifted easily but once in the gear the shifter was loose and had play.
I did a prelim carfax with 6 records but havent done the full order yet.
I read somewhere that it might be the tie rods or some kind of bushings that are bad causing the shaking. It will be smooth, shake and smooth out as speed is increased.
I was thinking of offering 4500 or 5000 for it if I could get a clean carfax and determine how much work to get the shaking stopped. What do you guys think? What would be a good deal for a 91 with 111696 miles in this shape, no t tops or turbo, black with some fender work due to deer encounter.
All else seems to be ok.
Thanks for the replies!
09-02-2004, 03:14 AM
#7
Administrative Brown Guy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,406
oh, it's a slicktop. That's why he's asking for so much. The rarity alone makes it's value increase. Don't let on about it. He might not know what he has.
111k miles? Has he done the 120K yet? If not, bring that up as a way to knock off some of the asking price. Where are you located? Is there a Z shop or really good Nissan dealer you can take the car to, to have it checked over? I'm suspecting more is wrong with the front suspension then just unbalanced tires.
111k miles? Has he done the 120K yet? If not, bring that up as a way to knock off some of the asking price. Where are you located? Is there a Z shop or really good Nissan dealer you can take the car to, to have it checked over? I'm suspecting more is wrong with the front suspension then just unbalanced tires.
09-02-2004, 06:32 AM
#8
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 15
Yeah, Its a slick top, no t tops right? I didnt realize that was rare, is there a particular reason they are more sought after, or is it just because there are few of them?
He had the timing belt done at 103k miles and it has 111k on it now, a new centerforce clutch at 80k. The steering seemed good it never pulled to one side or the other, even while braking, and did not vibrate while breaking just at certain speeds while driving and only in the steering wheel. He said he thought it was the tires out of round because he had it balanced a couple of times and rotated and it didnt go away.
Im thinking it might be the Tension Rod Bushings that I had read about in other posts, are these hard to change out and how expensive would they be? Or it could be they are not balanced as I saw no weights on the wheels at all, but did see where a few had been on several of the wheels.
Course it was hit by a deer and the front passenger fender and hood do not meet up like the should, about halfway from the back of the hood to the front along the seem of hood and fender, the fender is about 1/4 of and inch higher. As long as the frame is ok, I could live with it I think, but Im wondering if there is more damage. Looking into the engine bay around that fender all looks normal to me, no wrinkles or creases. The fender matches up evenly everywhere else though. Maybe it is the supsension, I'll try to look at it again and look underneath for damage.
I did talk to an independent Foreign auto specialist who he had work on it who has done a few Z cars and he said that there were no problems he knew of.
Im in Harrison Arkansas and am not sure if there is any others Z shops nearby, I believe there is a Nissan Dealer in town.
How expensive is the upkeep on these cars? I used to own an 89 maxima in which I did the timing belt myself, and took off the upper manifold to replace some cracked fuel lines. I've also swapped out a manifold on my 4cyl tacoma, so I can do a few things myself but the Z seems a little more sophisticated and intimidating. How easy would it be for a shade tree mechanic to do the typical repairs these cars usually need? From what I've read it seems they are pretty reliable but when things do go wrong they are expensive.
One last question, how many miles are people getting out of these cars on average, whats the life expectancy of one that is taken care of with oil changed regularly?
Thanks for the help and advice.
He had the timing belt done at 103k miles and it has 111k on it now, a new centerforce clutch at 80k. The steering seemed good it never pulled to one side or the other, even while braking, and did not vibrate while breaking just at certain speeds while driving and only in the steering wheel. He said he thought it was the tires out of round because he had it balanced a couple of times and rotated and it didnt go away.
Im thinking it might be the Tension Rod Bushings that I had read about in other posts, are these hard to change out and how expensive would they be? Or it could be they are not balanced as I saw no weights on the wheels at all, but did see where a few had been on several of the wheels.
Course it was hit by a deer and the front passenger fender and hood do not meet up like the should, about halfway from the back of the hood to the front along the seem of hood and fender, the fender is about 1/4 of and inch higher. As long as the frame is ok, I could live with it I think, but Im wondering if there is more damage. Looking into the engine bay around that fender all looks normal to me, no wrinkles or creases. The fender matches up evenly everywhere else though. Maybe it is the supsension, I'll try to look at it again and look underneath for damage.
I did talk to an independent Foreign auto specialist who he had work on it who has done a few Z cars and he said that there were no problems he knew of.
Im in Harrison Arkansas and am not sure if there is any others Z shops nearby, I believe there is a Nissan Dealer in town.
How expensive is the upkeep on these cars? I used to own an 89 maxima in which I did the timing belt myself, and took off the upper manifold to replace some cracked fuel lines. I've also swapped out a manifold on my 4cyl tacoma, so I can do a few things myself but the Z seems a little more sophisticated and intimidating. How easy would it be for a shade tree mechanic to do the typical repairs these cars usually need? From what I've read it seems they are pretty reliable but when things do go wrong they are expensive.
One last question, how many miles are people getting out of these cars on average, whats the life expectancy of one that is taken care of with oil changed regularly?
Thanks for the help and advice.
09-02-2004, 09:35 AM
#10
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 15
Originally Posted by CanyonCarver
On the slick top, besides being more rare, you have a lighter and more rigid chassis which makes for a better handling car. Mainly beneficial if your interested in going to a racetrack.
09-02-2004, 11:35 AM
#12
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Originally Posted by 91zxtt
What I meant to say was that price would be fair for you. 
09-03-2004, 02:46 AM
#13
Administrative Brown Guy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,406
look up the splparts.com website. The parts aren't that expensive and relatively simple to put in. An alignment might be necessary.
If you can do what you did with the maxima and tacoma then you should more than capable of doing most of the necessary work on the Z.
Z's are reliable cars. The NA's more so simply because of less parts, less stuff to go wrong. 200k is not uncommon on an NA engine.
If you can do what you did with the maxima and tacoma then you should more than capable of doing most of the necessary work on the Z.
Z's are reliable cars. The NA's more so simply because of less parts, less stuff to go wrong. 200k is not uncommon on an NA engine.
09-03-2004, 06:24 PM
#14
Southern Speedster
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 179
Originally Posted by skshepherd
Course it was hit by a deer and the front passenger fender and hood do not meet up like the should, about halfway from the back of the hood to the front along the seem of hood and fender, the fender is about 1/4 of and inch higher.
If you are willing to spend some money (got a grand or so to spare?) to work out the kinks, it sounds like a very interesting opportunity. I would get the frame checked/straighted before you do too much. At good body shop should be able to put it on the rack and pull it for not too much green.
Slicktops are ... slick! Good luck.
09-04-2004, 08:28 PM
#15
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 15
Looked again, offered $5500
Yeah, I looked at it closer today, its the drivers side fender that is low not the passenger side thats high. The drivers side is low and sticks out some, but they leveled the hood with the low one instead of the other side. Im gonna take it by a reputable auto body shop to see what they quote me or if they see any frame damage. He came down to 5900 and I came up to 5500. I don't think I'm going to go any higher cause I could wait and save and find one without the flaws. Oh yeah, the door handle on the driver side scrapes against itself and has rubbed the paint off.
Oh yeah he and his wife state that they were told there was no frame damage and that the hood and front cowling was all the was replaced. I dont think they are lying but Im not sure about the shop that did the **** poor work for them, why would the fender be out of line, why would you take off a fender that didnt need replacing? They are confident enought that the vibration is due the tires to have it looked at and also balanced. They also feel confident that the frame is ok to let me have an autobody place look at it.
Its starts right up and runs smooth, just purrs.
How rare is a mechanically sound slick top NA (provided it turns out to be sound)?
Would it be worth it even though the panels are not completely straight (but it turns out to be mechanically good)?
Oh yeah he and his wife state that they were told there was no frame damage and that the hood and front cowling was all the was replaced. I dont think they are lying but Im not sure about the shop that did the **** poor work for them, why would the fender be out of line, why would you take off a fender that didnt need replacing? They are confident enought that the vibration is due the tires to have it looked at and also balanced. They also feel confident that the frame is ok to let me have an autobody place look at it.
Its starts right up and runs smooth, just purrs.
How rare is a mechanically sound slick top NA (provided it turns out to be sound)?
Would it be worth it even though the panels are not completely straight (but it turns out to be mechanically good)?
Originally Posted by lightspeed
let me get this right - it was hit by A DEER?!? That's kinda like saying "Other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how did you enjoy the show?!?"
If you are willing to spend some money (got a grand or so to spare?) to work out the kinks, it sounds like a very interesting opportunity. I would get the frame checked/straighted before you do too much. At good body shop should be able to put it on the rack and pull it for not too much green.
Slicktops are ... slick! Good luck.
If you are willing to spend some money (got a grand or so to spare?) to work out the kinks, it sounds like a very interesting opportunity. I would get the frame checked/straighted before you do too much. At good body shop should be able to put it on the rack and pull it for not too much green.
Slicktops are ... slick! Good luck.
Last edited by skshepherd; 09-04-2004 at 08:32 PM.
09-05-2004, 07:16 AM
#18
Southern Speedster
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 179
Being a slicktop doesn't make it worth thousands more. Notice that as soon as you said 300zx we started to listen. When you said "slicktop" some of us said "hmmm....interesting."
Solid 300zx's are available all over the place in various levels of trim, condition and price. I wouldn't get emotionally tied to just one - until it is yours!
A problematic frame/sheetmetal will bug you for years if you are a waxer (I am) so be careful. Normally sports cars and large game don't mix well. Check the price between kelley blue book and edmunds.com. Good modifications are worth some $'s as well. Then follow your gut.
I looked for 8 months and found EXACTLY what I wanted. I'm in GA and I found mine in Southern CA on autotrader.com. Sold in 6 hours. Worth the shipping. "Be patient" would be my advice, and get what you want.
Solid 300zx's are available all over the place in various levels of trim, condition and price. I wouldn't get emotionally tied to just one - until it is yours!
A problematic frame/sheetmetal will bug you for years if you are a waxer (I am) so be careful. Normally sports cars and large game don't mix well. Check the price between kelley blue book and edmunds.com. Good modifications are worth some $'s as well. Then follow your gut.
I looked for 8 months and found EXACTLY what I wanted. I'm in GA and I found mine in Southern CA on autotrader.com. Sold in 6 hours. Worth the shipping. "Be patient" would be my advice, and get what you want.
09-05-2004, 09:25 PM
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 15
Well put, thats what I thought. Just trying not to get too attached or lust after one too much. They are just great looking and driving cars! Ill see if he accepts my offer and if it checks out ok, if not I'll just keep waiting, and saving!
Originally Posted by lightspeed
Being a slicktop doesn't make it worth thousands more. Notice that as soon as you said 300zx we started to listen. When you said "slicktop" some of us said "hmmm....interesting."
Solid 300zx's are available all over the place in various levels of trim, condition and price. I wouldn't get emotionally tied to just one - until it is yours!
A problematic frame/sheetmetal will bug you for years if you are a waxer (I am) so be careful. Normally sports cars and large game don't mix well. Check the price between kelley blue book and edmunds.com. Good modifications are worth some $'s as well. Then follow your gut.
I looked for 8 months and found EXACTLY what I wanted. I'm in GA and I found mine in Southern CA on autotrader.com. Sold in 6 hours. Worth the shipping. "Be patient" would be my advice, and get what you want.
Solid 300zx's are available all over the place in various levels of trim, condition and price. I wouldn't get emotionally tied to just one - until it is yours!
A problematic frame/sheetmetal will bug you for years if you are a waxer (I am) so be careful. Normally sports cars and large game don't mix well. Check the price between kelley blue book and edmunds.com. Good modifications are worth some $'s as well. Then follow your gut.
I looked for 8 months and found EXACTLY what I wanted. I'm in GA and I found mine in Southern CA on autotrader.com. Sold in 6 hours. Worth the shipping. "Be patient" would be my advice, and get what you want.
09-17-2004, 07:20 AM
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 15
Might be picking the Z up today!
I will be able to get it for $5900. Im going to have an autobody shop give me a free estimate for the misaligned fender, I suspect a cheap aftermarket nose piece that didnt fit right that they had to jerry rig the fenders to sort of split the difference. If thats all it is I can live with it and save for a new front or one of the fairlady fascias (sp?)
09-23-2004, 12:51 PM
#22
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 15
Got it!
Now Im struggling with the infamous shift **** removal, Im afraid that I will break the actual shifter because its twisting so much with the torque Im giving the ****. I've ended up cutting away the leather and plastic so that the metal insides that screw onto the shfter are exposed, I can get a better bite know with vise grips but still no luck getting it off. May dremel up the side like slicing an apple and unwrapping the metal part? 
Originally Posted by lightspeed
Go get 'em! That's the fun with a Z - if you touch it or even imagine it, there are all sorts of parts and options. Keep us posted.
09-23-2004, 12:57 PM
#23
Southern Speedster
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 179
First approach ... Twist by hand.
Second approach ... http://www.zchickz.com/qshift2.jpg
Third approach ... PowerTools! Argh,Argh,Argh,...
Second approach ... http://www.zchickz.com/qshift2.jpg
Third approach ... PowerTools! Argh,Argh,Argh,...
