Fuel pressure
And hopefully you aren't buying a $10 ebay special...
06-28-2010, 06:33 PM
#7
Encyclopedic Knowledge
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 3,316
... so you feel bad that you didn't research spark plugs and you put the wrong ones in, and as a result, you chose not to do research on fuel pressure regulators? lol
It's EASY to diagnose a bad FPR. Connect an in-line fuel pressure gauge and start the car. If the fuel pressure is not ~44psi at idle (and doesn't fluctuate directly with vacuum - at WOT, the gauge should read ~60psi), and/or if you turn the car off and the pressure drops to 0, the FPR is bad. If the needle vibrates badly, the damper is bad. Diagnosing fuel pressure problems is that simple.
It's EASY to diagnose a bad FPR. Connect an in-line fuel pressure gauge and start the car. If the fuel pressure is not ~44psi at idle (and doesn't fluctuate directly with vacuum - at WOT, the gauge should read ~60psi), and/or if you turn the car off and the pressure drops to 0, the FPR is bad. If the needle vibrates badly, the damper is bad. Diagnosing fuel pressure problems is that simple.
Last edited by ZLover4Life; 06-28-2010 at 06:36 PM.
07-02-2010, 07:25 AM
#13
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 3,316
Dude, that is too vague for us to tell you anything. Where in the system did you connect the fuel pressure gauge?
Post pictures of the gauge setup and the fuel feed and return lines, too. (If you have the feed and return lines crossed, or the FPR installed backwards, you won't get any pressure, so we need to see how they're installed.)
Post pictures of the gauge setup and the fuel feed and return lines, too. (If you have the feed and return lines crossed, or the FPR installed backwards, you won't get any pressure, so we need to see how they're installed.)
Last edited by ZLover4Life; 07-02-2010 at 09:27 AM.
07-03-2010, 12:17 AM
#14
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Orlando
Posts: 84
ok this is what happen so fare. when i hook up the FPR car ran a lots better it even stop getting bad gas mileage but still stalled it was not stalling that much. tonight i went to my friends house to recheck the fuel pressure it turns out his fuel pressure gauge was F'ed up and was not reading. we hook it up to his car and didn't get a reading. we also found that i **** up and put the FPR on backwards stupid me, so we turn it around. the gauge on the FPR was very low about 20psi turned all the way up. the gauge was jumping around to and the car ran even worse then when i had it on backwards it didnt stall that bad but now it stalls a lot more when im coming up to traffic lights its idling at 500. when i stop it dies. i called parts stores and they told me they dont rent gauges. so what do i do? ill try to post a video tomorrow
07-03-2010, 12:58 AM
#15
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 3,316
You can buy any cheap mechanical fluid gauge of any kind (oil pressure, for example) that can read up to 60psi+ and fabricate your own plumbing into the fuel system from parts at Home Depot.
I still want pics to make sure you didn't completely screw up how the fuel system is routed.
Ultimately, I think you're going to end up taking this car to someone like Ash (he's somewhere in northern Florida), because I think you've either messed things up or your car was screwed up badly to begin with, but I'll try to provide insight for now.
I still want pics to make sure you didn't completely screw up how the fuel system is routed.
Ultimately, I think you're going to end up taking this car to someone like Ash (he's somewhere in northern Florida), because I think you've either messed things up or your car was screwed up badly to begin with, but I'll try to provide insight for now.
07-03-2010, 01:07 PM
#16
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Orlando
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07-03-2010, 02:12 PM
#17
More Than Meets The Eye
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mesa, Az
Posts: 5,120
Yeah it does seem like it is running better, since the last video you posted. Honestly, I think Z's in general, it is just one of their faults. I have had similiar problems with my 280zx's too. Usually more, when they are cold. Hopefully it cleared out, and fixed itself to a degree. Minus the parts you have replaced. Good luck man, hope you get it figured out.
07-04-2010, 01:58 PM
#18
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Orlando
Posts: 84
well guys and girls im a dumb @$$ are you ready for my dumb @$$ story her it go a few month ago i was getting a really high idle around 2k rpm well like and dumb @$$ with a screw driver i tried to get the idle down. you know that little idle silver screw on the throttle bar well i put it all the way down. come to fine out it was the connector on the TPS that was lose so like a dumb @$$ i put up my tools and didn't move it back so this morning i put it all the way back to where it was suppose to be well the car started up and it idle fine like a car should with a high idle till it gets warmed up still the idle was a little high and it was still running rich so i did another ECU check and got code 13 engine coolant temp sensor so i when up to auto zone spent $15 and got another replaced it and its running fine no more stalling and im getting good fuel pressure cars running fine so sorry to waste yalls time
07-04-2010, 02:26 PM
#19
More Than Meets The Eye
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mesa, Az
Posts: 5,120
No biggie man, things get overlooked quite easily. It has happened to me many times on my Z. You will do some weird adjustment. Or change something. And then forget, and sit there go crazy, trying to figure out, why you are having some many problems. lol All aside, glad you got it figured out. Now go enjoy your Z, and don't take it for granted. I really miss driving mine.
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