Fuel Pump not working???
#2
lol To bypass what? What good would bypassing the pump do? lol
It's probably the fuel pump control unit - they're known to fry themselves from time to time on early Z32s. Check for voltage at the pump with the key in the 'on' position. If there is none, the FPCU is the likely culprit.
It's probably the fuel pump control unit - they're known to fry themselves from time to time on early Z32s. Check for voltage at the pump with the key in the 'on' position. If there is none, the FPCU is the likely culprit.
#3
Or you could check the FPCU itself. How to find it is detailed in here:
http://www.ttxtz.com/tech/fp/index.html
If you take the cover off, it'll be clear as day if it's bad... there'll be a burnt section. Tried to find an old photo for you, but couldn't find it quickly and I'm not on my computer to get it myself.
http://www.ttxtz.com/tech/fp/index.html
If you take the cover off, it'll be clear as day if it's bad... there'll be a burnt section. Tried to find an old photo for you, but couldn't find it quickly and I'm not on my computer to get it myself.
#6
Like hook the pump up to the battery and run a toggle switch to turn it on or off??
my pump isnt where the pictures are showing mine is a 1989 but its the z32 style its under the spare tire in the middle of the trunk.
my pump isnt where the pictures are showing mine is a 1989 but its the z32 style its under the spare tire in the middle of the trunk.
#7
Also i bought my car with 2 ECU's and the guy said it needed an ecu so do i have to get a certain one for my vg30dett motor? and i looked at my FPCU and it is not burnt or nothing so its good but the pump is still not working.
#8
That just means your car is a 2+2, no big deal.
You cannot wire the pump itself directly to a toggle switch, because it is a multi-speed pump (hence the purpose of the FPCU - which you still need to inspect). You could wire the ground to a toggle switch to act as a kill to prevent theft, but it would not resolve your current issues.
Inspect the fuel pump control unit and respond with its status. If it is blown, you need to replace it (and you could wire the control unit to a toggle switch, if you so choose). If it's fine, we need to consider other causes.
You cannot wire the pump itself directly to a toggle switch, because it is a multi-speed pump (hence the purpose of the FPCU - which you still need to inspect). You could wire the ground to a toggle switch to act as a kill to prevent theft, but it would not resolve your current issues.
Inspect the fuel pump control unit and respond with its status. If it is blown, you need to replace it (and you could wire the control unit to a toggle switch, if you so choose). If it's fine, we need to consider other causes.
#10
Your fuel pump is probably blown. It happens.
I suspected this was the case after I thought about it for a bit (but I chose to disconnect from the internet last evening, so my apologies for the delay). If you were getting power (at all) at the pump, the FPCU was probably fine. The reason it has two positives is for the multi-speed functionality of the pump (NA pumps are two speed, TT are three speed, and the voltage coming from each of the wires is what controls the pump's speed). This also explains why you had a weak electrical signal on one of the wires - since the engine isn't under heavy load (the engine was presumably off), the fuel pump control unit is basically setting the pump to the lower speed setting.
I suspected this was the case after I thought about it for a bit (but I chose to disconnect from the internet last evening, so my apologies for the delay). If you were getting power (at all) at the pump, the FPCU was probably fine. The reason it has two positives is for the multi-speed functionality of the pump (NA pumps are two speed, TT are three speed, and the voltage coming from each of the wires is what controls the pump's speed). This also explains why you had a weak electrical signal on one of the wires - since the engine isn't under heavy load (the engine was presumably off), the fuel pump control unit is basically setting the pump to the lower speed setting.
Last edited by ZLover4Life; 03-23-2011 at 09:10 AM.
#13
lol
Why the hell are you worrying about your fuel pump if your car doesn't even run? When I was finishing my 240Z L28ET swap, the fuel pump is literally the LAST thing I did. Get everything connected and THEN worry about it.
This whole thread is now dumb.
With that said, the EFI harness doesn't need to be connected, but my understanding of the electrical system yesterday would've been that the ECU needed to be connected for the FPCU to determine which setting to use... the fact that your pump was getting power suggests that understanding was likely wrong, and also that your pump is still probably dead.
Why the hell are you worrying about your fuel pump if your car doesn't even run? When I was finishing my 240Z L28ET swap, the fuel pump is literally the LAST thing I did. Get everything connected and THEN worry about it.
This whole thread is now dumb.
With that said, the EFI harness doesn't need to be connected, but my understanding of the electrical system yesterday would've been that the ECU needed to be connected for the FPCU to determine which setting to use... the fact that your pump was getting power suggests that understanding was likely wrong, and also that your pump is still probably dead.
#16
I found it and i just rewired it back to the ECU.
Under the hood there is a little fuse block with 6 fuses in it one says fuel pump and a big blue one says BATT and ect.
everybody says my relay is behind the drivers side kick panel but what would that fuse or relay be?
Thank you for the replies
Under the hood there is a little fuse block with 6 fuses in it one says fuel pump and a big blue one says BATT and ect.
everybody says my relay is behind the drivers side kick panel but what would that fuse or relay be?
Thank you for the replies
#18
Fuse is in the engine bay infront of the battery.
#20
#21
I thank everyone in advance for replying,
I am in the middle of pulling my engine out of the car to replace some parts, does anybody know if i can pull the motor out with the transmission still attached to the engine??
I am in the middle of pulling my engine out of the car to replace some parts, does anybody know if i can pull the motor out with the transmission still attached to the engine??
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