Handbrake issue
#1
Handbrake issue
Few days ago i went to a local mechanic to tighten my handbrake because it lifts up so much and doesnt stop the rear wheels.. so he removed my rear wheels and began his work.. when he finished the handbrake was a bit harder to pull so i knew it has been fixed however it only works when the car is in stationary position, when it is in motion the car doesnt respond to the handbrake as if it is not working at all... So yest i retook the car to the mechanic and i told him the handbrake has been loosened so he retightened it and again same problem it doesnt work when the car is in motion..
Any help is appreciated..
Any help is appreciated..
#2
you're going to need to check it out yourself. i expect your pads are just shot (different pads for the e-brake). does it verifiably not slow the car at all when it's in motion or does it just not slow it a notable amount? to test, get going at 45 or so, coast, and yank it up fairly hard. if you feel the car bump at least, then we at least know that your pads are connecting with the drum.
#3
you're going to need to check it out yourself. i expect your pads are just shot (different pads for the e-brake). does it verifiably not slow the car at all when it's in motion or does it just not slow it a notable amount? to test, get going at 45 or so, coast, and yank it up fairly hard. if you feel the car bump at least, then we at least know that your pads are connecting with the drum.
well i dont really know if it slows down because if it does it will be negligible...
I hear the pads connecting with the drum when i pull it hard but i guess it"ll slow down just a little..
Last edited by Sam; 05-28-2010 at 11:25 AM.
#4
yes you will have to take off the rear rotor underneath the rear rotor is the e-brake pads i learned just 4 days ago how to put new ones on... get ready set go ! there is a little wheel located at the 6o clock postion you can tighten your pads if you still have pads left.. its super easy i used a number 5 flat head large to twist down the " clock " adj key to move the ebrake pads out. If you plan on replacing the pads you wil need a few tools.
Needle nose pliers to pull off the srings
a c-clamp to take off the " stud " thats needed to reput back on the ebrake cable. <-- a pain in the A$$ by the way.
brake spray 2 cans. just to make sure.
Needle nose pliers to pull off the srings
a c-clamp to take off the " stud " thats needed to reput back on the ebrake cable. <-- a pain in the A$$ by the way.
brake spray 2 cans. just to make sure.
#6
i was just mentioning that as a test that apparently he doesn't want to do.
on a side note, if it were not designed to slow the car while moving, why would it be a drum and pad system as opposed to a pin and gear system like that of an automatic transmission in park?
on a side note, if it were not designed to slow the car while moving, why would it be a drum and pad system as opposed to a pin and gear system like that of an automatic transmission in park?
#7
... automatics have parking brakes, too. And some municipalities require automatic cars to use the parking brake, as well.
Not only are drum brakes (which is essentially what a parking brake is) obsolete because they are not as effective for braking, but the size of the pads and the tension your able to exert on the system with your hand and a cable (as opposed to your foot and a hydraulic system) is not sufficient for brake-use. Not to mention, rear brakes do less than 30% of a car's braking, and locking up the wheels is the last thing you want to do in an emergency (this is why we have ABS).
http://autorepair.about.com/library/.../bldef-611.htm
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake06.pdf
(Just reinforcing my point. Modern parking brakes are not designed to effectively stop a car in an emergency.)
Not only are drum brakes (which is essentially what a parking brake is) obsolete because they are not as effective for braking, but the size of the pads and the tension your able to exert on the system with your hand and a cable (as opposed to your foot and a hydraulic system) is not sufficient for brake-use. Not to mention, rear brakes do less than 30% of a car's braking, and locking up the wheels is the last thing you want to do in an emergency (this is why we have ABS).
http://autorepair.about.com/library/.../bldef-611.htm
PARKING BRAKE: The mechanical hand- or foot-operated brake that prevents the vehicle from rolling or slipping when parked.
The parking brake system is a secondary braking system used to hold a parked car in position. [...] Since there is no inertial to overcome, less braking power is required to hold the vehicle stationary and less force is required to apply.
Last edited by ZLover4Life; 05-27-2010 at 02:52 PM.
#8
#10
#12
The parking brake is essentially a single drum brake in the rear...
And your mechanic is a tard, before he even messed with the rear, the cable at the actual handle should of been adjusted and this would of, more than likely, remedied the problem...
I had the problem when I used the parking brake the car would still roll unless I pulled it to an almost vertical position. adjusted the cable at the actual handle, and the issue was solved.
And your mechanic is a tard, before he even messed with the rear, the cable at the actual handle should of been adjusted and this would of, more than likely, remedied the problem...
I had the problem when I used the parking brake the car would still roll unless I pulled it to an almost vertical position. adjusted the cable at the actual handle, and the issue was solved.
#15
Just because you can push your clutch pedal and it works, doesn't mean it's adjusted properly..
Just because I bolt is in, doesn't mean it'd adjusted to the proper torque spec..
#16
From your turbo thread:
Sam, these guys are just giving you advice on the proper way to do things. Obviously they have enough experience to know that "cutting corners" isn't going to get you very far (literally & figuratively speaking).
Sam, these guys are just giving you advice on the proper way to do things. Obviously they have enough experience to know that "cutting corners" isn't going to get you very far (literally & figuratively speaking).
Last edited by NismoPick; 05-28-2010 at 11:55 AM.
#20
#21
Fine so what's the proper way! tho im still want garret turbos
#22
STOCK TURBOS ARE GARRETS!!
And if the handle is adjusted properly, and you have already taken it to a mechanic twice, then he obviously isn't doing his job... If it's the pads, then he should of replaced them...
Take it back, tell him you've already paid for a properly working parking brake, it still isn't working properly, you aren't giving him another dime, and you want it fixed properly this time.
And if the handle is adjusted properly, and you have already taken it to a mechanic twice, then he obviously isn't doing his job... If it's the pads, then he should of replaced them...
Take it back, tell him you've already paid for a properly working parking brake, it still isn't working properly, you aren't giving him another dime, and you want it fixed properly this time.
#23
Dude i'm not living in the US.. mechanics accept to work with my car are very few especially good ones!! and this mechanic is very good however he told me that if it doesnt work than he need to remove the rear rotor to fix it so i said okay i will try it for a while and then tell you... So now i know that there are pads for the e-brake moreover 300zx parts are very very rare in lebanon considering there are only about 10 cars in the whole country ! so he can't go and search the whole country for pads ! therefore i must bring him the pads! And well he didnt take from me one dime!
I know stock turbos are GARRETS someone mentioned in the thread that they're garret t22s with t25 turbine! but i want upgraded GARRETS !! not JWT!!
Why aren't you getting my point!
I know stock turbos are GARRETS someone mentioned in the thread that they're garret t22s with t25 turbine! but i want upgraded GARRETS !! not JWT!!
Why aren't you getting my point!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Bookmarks