Have we got bad gas?
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 215
From: Port Townsend (Home) and Bellingham (School), WA
Have we got bad gas?
ARCO = BP. BP makes alright gas right? Could this be the source of the problem? Could they jus have crappy gas? In case anyone asks we're using premium and everything. I just ask because ARCO is cheap 2.51 for prem.
Anyway, thanks
Ezra
Anyway, thanks
Ezra
#2
NEVER get cheap gas for a Z32... NEVER!!!! BP shell and Gas city (they make race fuel so i trust them) is all i ever used PREMIUM!!! other wise the bitch knocks like a mother ****er.. i used regular once and it almost didnt want to idle.... and also never use the wierd gas with the AE85 or w/e its got alcohol in it it will wear down your injectors.. never use fuel injector cleaner its got alcohol in it.... and since its a 90 Z32 it has the early style injectors with a constant surrent and the injectors will either corrode to do the alcohol and current of just get worn out to **** and prematurly die due to the alcohol. alcohol and Z32 dont mix is the moral of the story
#3
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 215
From: Port Townsend (Home) and Bellingham (School), WA
I guess its Jerry canning from the Chevron on the Res then, its 2.51 there too. I heard that Chevron makes the best gas in the country. I also heard that Shell was somewhere near the bottom (and that they get their fuel from ConocoPhillips, the people who ****ed up the injectors on the Sienna and the Celica)... I just don't know... I'm almost tempted to drive back to where we got the gas and check the pump. ****
#4
I've never had a single problem using Shell, BP, or Gas City (93 octane only). However, I used to use Citgo, and I had 3 injectors fail on me at once.
But it's not at all the quality of gas that destroys 90-94 Z32... it's the ethanol (as Eric said). Either stop using gasoline that has ethanol (the gas stations I listed don't use ethanol, out by me at least - but many gas stations do add 10% ethanol), switch to the revised injectors ($1200+), or rewire your injectors so that they only get voltage when the ignition is on ($10 + the writeup in the twinturbo.net auto-faq).
But it's not at all the quality of gas that destroys 90-94 Z32... it's the ethanol (as Eric said). Either stop using gasoline that has ethanol (the gas stations I listed don't use ethanol, out by me at least - but many gas stations do add 10% ethanol), switch to the revised injectors ($1200+), or rewire your injectors so that they only get voltage when the ignition is on ($10 + the writeup in the twinturbo.net auto-faq).
#6
Originally Posted by ZLover4Life
But it's not at all the quality of gas that destroys 90-94 Z32... it's the ethanol (as Eric said). Either stop using gasoline that has ethanol (the gas stations I listed don't use ethanol, out by me at least - but many gas stations do add 10% ethanol), switch to the revised injectors ($1200+), or rewire your injectors so that they only get voltage when the ignition is on ($10 + the writeup in the twinturbo.net auto-faq).
#9
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 215
From: Port Townsend (Home) and Bellingham (School), WA
I'm not dealing with it right now. I pulled all but two of the coil packs (the other two would be a bitch to get to) its going into the mechanic for now. I don't really have a garage to work on it in. I may do an intership with the mechanic thats looking at it. I also ran the ECU codes which came back clean.
Haven't done much yet, but I plan to get more into it when I'm in town for more than two days at a time.
Haven't done much yet, but I plan to get more into it when I'm in town for more than two days at a time.
#14
not so much a prob for 95+ but i still wouldnt do it.
and ezra... just dont use it any more you dont have to drain the tank... also those last back 2 coil packs look more intimidating than they really are... just take of the 4 nuts on the balance tube.. it will pop off along with a bracket and boom.. there they are... do it 2 times and youll be a pro at it. plus... if your thinking certain cylinders are not firing... jsut pull the connectors while the car is runing.. you can find out if there is a or some cylinders not firing that way.. if they all drop the RPM's a decent noticable amount then you dont have to worry about pulling coil packs... just disconnect the connectors to the fuel injectors or coil packs.
and ezra... just dont use it any more you dont have to drain the tank... also those last back 2 coil packs look more intimidating than they really are... just take of the 4 nuts on the balance tube.. it will pop off along with a bracket and boom.. there they are... do it 2 times and youll be a pro at it. plus... if your thinking certain cylinders are not firing... jsut pull the connectors while the car is runing.. you can find out if there is a or some cylinders not firing that way.. if they all drop the RPM's a decent noticable amount then you dont have to worry about pulling coil packs... just disconnect the connectors to the fuel injectors or coil packs.
#16
Originally Posted by 91zxtt
FYI....There are 5 bolts on the balance tube....2 on the passenger side and 3 on the driver side.
Originally Posted by 91zxtt
What are the symptomes on this problem BTW? Did I miss something?
#17
Originally Posted by entropy31
so thats not a problem on the '95+ Zs then?
What I plan to do to fix it without retrofitting the 95+ setup on my car is to rewire the injectors so that they are on a relay. This will cause the current to only be applied to the injectors when the car is on.
#19
Originally Posted by b300z
As far as fixing the car goes, start with all the basic stuff....clean the air filter, replace the fuel filter and PCV's, clean the TB's and IACV, check the resistance on your fuel injectors. The injector is the most likely cause.
#20
wow... 5 im sorry... i havent had a Z32 for over 7 months now. i was goin off memory. i think he woulda noticed teh other one with out my helping hand.... the purpose of what i said was reassurance that its easier than he thinks.... yeesh.
#21
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 215
From: Port Townsend (Home) and Bellingham (School), WA
no, seriously snowy, I appreciate your encouragment. I had a crappy week at school and was just looking for an excuse to give up. Next weekend I WILL pull al six coil packs (or reread ur post cause I haven't read it all the way through). Seriously I appreciate it
Ezra
Thanks everyone else too for the help
Ezra
Thanks everyone else too for the help
#22
well yeah if you really think its a cylinder not firing... just pull the clips attatched to either the injector or coil pack see if the RPM's drop noticably. if they dont on one.. you know what cylinder you need to start checking out. if they all do... no need to remove any of the coil packs.
#23
Just want to let you know pulling connectors apart (such as injectors and coils, etc.) is not a good idea while the car is running. It could send a voltage spike to the computer and fry it. I suggest shutting it down unplugging then starting it back up. Just a heads up you could possibly set an engine light unplugging anything with the key on.
#25
hmmm... im not gonna argue that fact cause i never heard of it nore did i hear its BS so i guess plausible.. sept i did it on my car ( i pulle dthe coil pack connectors though) and nothin ever happend... i dont see how that would be any different from if on a nother caar you just pulled the park plug wires from each cylinder running but w/e