HICAS or Super HICAS?
11-20-2011, 10:24 AM
#1
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HICAS or Super HICAS?
I've googled around a bunch and so far I've understood that the HICAS system is a hydraulic system and the Super HICAS is electronically controlled. Do all TT Z32 years have the Super HICAS or were there years of just the regular HICAS? The reason is I want to get rid of mine since it's gone kaput but the only step by step removal info I've found was for regular HICAS on silvias and skylines. My car's a '91 TT JDM.
11-20-2011, 10:30 AM
#2
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Would the HICAS removal from a z32 be anything like removing it from an R32?
http://www.jdmlegion.com/Projects/R3...0-d80578697ab6
http://www.jdmlegion.com/Projects/R3...0-d80578697ab6
11-21-2011, 05:47 PM
#3
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Z32 has Super HICAS. I have no knowledge of the R32 system.
You'll need either NA rear end + NA PS pump OR HICAS elimination bar. The former method does it right and removes its weight, at the sacrifice of weaker half shafts, the latter method is a ridiculous bypass that simply disables it. You'd do better to figure out what's wrong with it and fix it... it's a good system.
You'll need either NA rear end + NA PS pump OR HICAS elimination bar. The former method does it right and removes its weight, at the sacrifice of weaker half shafts, the latter method is a ridiculous bypass that simply disables it. You'd do better to figure out what's wrong with it and fix it... it's a good system.
Last edited by ZLover4Life; 11-21-2011 at 05:49 PM.
11-22-2011, 05:12 AM
#5
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It's overall the same as an R23, but the location of parts and routing of lines are different.
As what Zlover said, it's a good system when it's working and not leaking.
My opinion on deleting the system vs. swapping in an N/A rear subframe is that with the HICAS delete bar you can adjust your rear toe, the TT rear gear is better suited for what the car was built to do (road courses and twisty roads) And that more weight in the rear is a good thing when a stock TT is already very front heavy.
That and whats easier? swapping in a complete subframe, or just removing a rack and solenoid?
As what Zlover said, it's a good system when it's working and not leaking.
My opinion on deleting the system vs. swapping in an N/A rear subframe is that with the HICAS delete bar you can adjust your rear toe, the TT rear gear is better suited for what the car was built to do (road courses and twisty roads) And that more weight in the rear is a good thing when a stock TT is already very front heavy.
That and whats easier? swapping in a complete subframe, or just removing a rack and solenoid?
11-22-2011, 01:39 PM
#6
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Well you've got me sold on the regular delete bar. The thing is though, I've also heard that part of the HICAS can interfere with wider wheels (I've heard as low as 9") which was also somewhat of a deciding factor. Will whatever part that gets in the way still be in the way if I go with the simple delete?
EDIT: BTW, the rims I'm looking at would be 9.5" wide with 30mm offset.
EDIT: BTW, the rims I'm looking at would be 9.5" wide with 30mm offset.
Last edited by Rupe; 11-22-2011 at 02:17 PM. Reason: forgot something
11-24-2011, 08:20 AM
#7
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First off, people have tucked wider wheels with HICAS. Diameter and offset play hugely into this. If you get the wrong wheels, they won't fit... that's nothing new. I had 9.5" wide rears (17" diameter, not sure of the offset) that fit just fine.
Second off, Dean Delvy on TwinTurbo.NET ran 10.6 in the quarter mile on the stock 8.5" wheels... what makes you think you won't be able to achieve your grip goals with what you're able to fit? lol
http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg...&msg_id=935775
Second off, Dean Delvy on TwinTurbo.NET ran 10.6 in the quarter mile on the stock 8.5" wheels... what makes you think you won't be able to achieve your grip goals with what you're able to fit? lol
http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg...&msg_id=935775
- front:
-- 7.5" width -> +16 - +57
-- 8.0" width -> +23 - +50
-- 8.5" width -> +29 - +44
-- 9.0" width -> +35 - +38
-- 9.5" width -> not generally possible
- rear:
-- 17x8.5 -> +22 - +55
-- 17x9.0 -> +28 - +48
-- 17x9.5 -> +34 - +42
-- 17x10.0 -> not generally possible, though +41 has been done
-- 18x8.5 -> +22 - +64
-- 18x9.0 -> +28 - +57
-- 18x9.5 -> +34 - +51
-- 18x10.0 -> +39 - +45
-- 7.5" width -> +16 - +57
-- 8.0" width -> +23 - +50
-- 8.5" width -> +29 - +44
-- 9.0" width -> +35 - +38
-- 9.5" width -> not generally possible
- rear:
-- 17x8.5 -> +22 - +55
-- 17x9.0 -> +28 - +48
-- 17x9.5 -> +34 - +42
-- 17x10.0 -> not generally possible, though +41 has been done
-- 18x8.5 -> +22 - +64
-- 18x9.0 -> +28 - +57
-- 18x9.5 -> +34 - +51
-- 18x10.0 -> +39 - +45
Last edited by ZLover4Life; 11-24-2011 at 08:26 AM.
11-26-2011, 03:11 PM
#9
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I'm sure it won't take you long to learn that the majority of Z32 owners don't think highly of modifications like that which are done for purely cosmetic reasons. Form follows function. You should get the best performing wheel and tire arrangement (you drive a car meant to go fast), regardless of how wide it looks.
11-28-2011, 03:30 PM
#10
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I know, and I'm quite the same way most of the time. I guess I'm anxious to get into all of it but rims/tires are almost the only thing I can do right now, aside from cleaning it up and general maintenance. And I figure since it's kind of budget mods for now why not have it look how I want?
11-29-2011, 07:56 PM
#12
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Oh ya, what would the wheel diameter really affect? And shouldn't the offset technically be able to go infinitely lower? I realize that at a point it just looks dumb but one should be able to have like 18x12 w/ -50mm offset if they really wanted. I hope I never have to see that but there are some crazies out there... 
12-01-2011, 09:02 AM
#13
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The offsets listed will prevent it from looking like a dune buggy.
And the diameter matters because it's one of the HICAS toe arms (I believe) that will impact the inside of the wheel if you have the wrong diameter/width/offset... so if the wheel is a larger diameter, that allows a wider wheel to sit deeper into the chassis without rubbing the toe arm.
And the diameter matters because it's one of the HICAS toe arms (I believe) that will impact the inside of the wheel if you have the wrong diameter/width/offset... so if the wheel is a larger diameter, that allows a wider wheel to sit deeper into the chassis without rubbing the toe arm.
12-01-2011, 03:16 PM
#14
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I see I see. Will the interference of the toe arm change at all after installing a HICAS delete bar? I haven't taken the time to fully research and understand the process yet as I'm still exploring my options.
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